If I had to choose between the North or South Island for a holiday destination, the South Island wins hands down.
Everytime.
Don’t get me wrong, the North Island has some great attractions that are certainly worth a visit and if you are wanting warmer weather and beach holidays, then the North Island will be right up your alley.
What attracts me most to the South Island is the diversity in landscapes, it’s pristine, untouched feel and a far smaller population!
I have blogged many times about places in the South Island, but, a few years before I started writing about it, Daniel and I packed up our panniers and spent 3 weeks exploring this place on 2 wheels. It was a significant trip for me, it’s where I really fell in love with my country, with travel and with motorbiking holidays.
We visited and did some pretty cool stuff on this trip and while I can’t describe it in detail (It was 10 years ago) I would like to share with you some of those experiences. So here we are, Memorable Moments of Te Waipounamu, (South Island) before I was blogging.
P.S Te Waipounamu translates to The Waters of Greenstone. How beautiful is that! When you see the colours of the lakes and rivers and the gorgeous greenstone of the West Coast, the name conjures up some pretty beautiful imagery.
1. Abel Tasman
Seriously, this place is stunning! In high school I did a multi-day tramp through the National Park and went straight from there to a family holiday in the Cook Islands. I reckon the beaches in Abel Tasman are more beautiful. The park is a wilderness reserve located at the top of Te Waipounamu. There are lots of ways to explore this place too; kayaking, tramping, sailing and water taxis, so lots of options to suit all budgets and fitness levels. I have tramped it and done a half day kayaking tour. High on my bucket list is to return and do a multi-day kayak through the park. It won’t take long before you are completely captivated by its pristine clear waters and golden sandy bays.
2. Te WaikoroPupu Springs
Located in Tasman region, Pupu Springs are the largest fresh water springs in New Zealand. They are the largest freshwater springs in the Southern Hemisphere and have some of the clearest water in the world. I remember the walk there being fairly easy, and a quick good search reminded me that it’s a 30-45 minute loop track. The water here is undeniably clear and the colours that come through are quite something.
3. Fox Glacier
This 13 km long glacier is located on the West Coast. When we were there 10 years ago, they offered guided glacier walks, now I believe, if you want to walk on the ice, you need to do a heli-tour. It was a very cold tour, but so unique. I had never done anything like this before or experienced ice in this way. Equipped with crampons, walking poles and all the weather appropriate clothing, we were able to set out and explore this magnificent chunk of ice.
4. Curio Bay Penguins
If you head south enough, you will find yourself in The Catlins, part of the Southland region and the very bottom of Te Waipounamu. It is rugged and wild, has a very untouched feel and I have heard it described as ‘what New Zealand would have looked like before settlers’. There were a lot of things I was hoping to explore here, but the large amount of gravel roads gave us a flat tyre so we had to cut our trip in this area short. We did however manage a dusk trip down to Curio Bay to look for Hoioho. (Yellow Eyed Penguins) We were told they are very shy and to keep your distance, but the little feathered friend we spotted couldn’t have been more different. This guy was out on the rocks, strutting his stuff and seemed to be lapping up all the attention (We still kept our distance, he just wasn’t shy!)
5. State Highway 94
I know, it doesn’t sound like something that should be on a most memorable list, but let me assure you, the road to Milford Sounds is so incredibly scenic. (And super fun on 2 wheels) It is a long drive, but there are so many beautiful sights. Along this journey, you will pass through the 1.2 KM Homer Tunnel. It passes through solid rock and has a bit of a gradient, which means for the most part, you can’t see the light at the end of the tunnel. I got a bit freaked out when we entered the tunnel because I literally couldn’t see anything, although I quickly realised my tinted visor would be the cause of this. Although Daniel later confessed that he couldn’t see much either and was just aiming for the headlights of the car coming towards us!
6. Milford Sounds
We did an overnight cruise in Milford Sounds and this has to be one of my all time favorite travel memories. This is an experience I do remember in more detail. It was Spring, but there had been a fresh dumping of snow on the mountains. It was evening, all the day tours had finished and our boat was the only one in the Sounds. They asked us who wanted to go kayaking. Out of the whole boat, there were only about 8 of us who were brave enough to leave the warmth of our floating accommodation. It was pretty cold out. Picture this, Milford Sounds all to ourselves, paddling around in a kayak, next to massive snow covered fjords, that seems to reach as far up as the sky and plummet to the depth of the ocean. We were also out during a thunderstorm. The impressive booming sounds of thunder bounced around the fjords. It was one of those moments where you feel so small, but in a good way. A moment where you marvel at how incredible nature is. While I am sitting in my kayak with these thoughts, thinking it doesn’t get much better than this, a pod of dolphins turned up. The whole 2 day tour was amazing, but this was a moment that took my breath away.
So there you have it. I hope you enjoyed reading this post. I have certainly enjoyed this little trip down memory lane. What are some of your favorite travel moments?
We disembark the Coastal Pacific train in Blenheim after a scenic and relaxing 5 hour journey with KiwiRail. The place is drenched in sunshine. It’s a perfect winter’s day. The air is still and the bright blue sky stretches as far as the eye can see.
We head across the road to our accommodation for the night at Waterside Motel. Our room has some lovely views over the river.
After a quick rest, we head out to explore the town and have a wander around the shops. We don’t have long here and I want to make the most of the afternoon. It almost feels tropical, there is warmth in the sun, the chill from the morning air has long passed and palm like trees are dotted along the river side. Blenheim enjoys some of the highest annual hours of sunshine in the country and I am certainly enjoying it.
Our walk takes us to Seymour Square. The bell tower is ringing and the water fountain is perfectly symmetrical in the center of the park. Dotted along the back fence is a sea of yellow. It may be winter, but in Blenheim, the daffodils are already out, soaking up the sunshine. Spring is on it’s way.
After enjoying the stillness of The Square for a while, we continue our walk along the river bank. It’s an easy walk and lots of people are out enjoying the place. Cyclists, people on scooters, parents with prams and dogs. Life seems to have a slower pace here. A pace that has time to stop and enjoy the warmth of the sun, or read a book in the park. It is too easy these days to make life super busy. Slowing down and taking time has become an art. One which I would like to learn.
Our next stop is The Wine Station situated right next to, you guessed it, the train station. I noticed it when first arrived in Blenheim and knew I needed to come back here. Marlborough is a well renowned wine region, but we are without a car and only have the afternoon, so visiting the different wineries isn’t really possible. The Wine Station makes it easy. They have about 60 wines from around the region available for tasting. It’s self-service, a bit like a vending machine. You can read the notes about the wine, decide on the tasting size, swipe your card and out comes the wine.
Perfect.
We take a seat on the comfy leather sofas, next to the fire and sample the wines. I try a pinot gris, a riesling and a deliciously sweet and sticky late harvest sav. Its a lovely way to spend the rest of the afternoon, sipping wine and having a laugh.
As we head out to dinner, all the birds are chattering away, settling into the trees for the evening. It’s dusk’s chorus. The town looks pretty at night, with all the twinkling lights. The plan was to go out for a nice dinner, but I hadn’t made any reservations. When we arrived at the restaurant I had picked out, we found it was closed for a private function. So dinner ended up being a takeaway pizza and Netflix. Not what was planned, but it has been an action packed 3 days so a quiet, relaxing evening in turned out to be a lovely alternative.
The next morning we make our way home to Wellington on the shortest flight I have ever been on. A total of 18 minutes! We are on a small plane that seats 50 people and it is flying much lower than what I am used to. This gives us some pretty good views! The sun is making the land golden. It looks as though someone has draped velvet across the valleys and hills. Before I know it, we touch down in Wellington. We are home.
It’s still dark when we depart Christchurch. I will be able to watch the sun come up.
We take our seats in the front carriage next to the big glass windows. I expect we will see some pretty awesome views on this journey.
The rain is glistening on the windows as we pass through residential areas, the street lights twinkling as a burnt orange horizon mixes into a deep inky blue sky. The bare winter trees silhouette against the dawn. Morning has broken.
I head down to the open carriage to get some photos (I hate taking photos through glass.) Jeepers creepers, it’s fresh out here, but so beautiful. The golden hues spilling out across the land as we pass a river that reflects the colours back.
We pass through frosty farmland, blanketed in white. The air is crisp and cold. Actually freezing. I’m the only one mad enough to be out here. Even though the cold air is numbing my face and hands, the beauty that I am seeing keeps me out here for sometime.
As I make my way back to our carriage, I pass row after row of people engrossed with their phones, their ipads and reading books. It’s so sad. They are missing the beauty right in front of them.
I take a seat and appreciate the soft pink and blue hues of the sky. We then hear an announcement over the speakers. The viewing cart is now closed due to safety reasons. The floor is very icy and slippery. I agree, it was, but I am also disappointed that I wont be able to take glass free photos and feel the wind in my face, despite how cold it was.
I settle into my seat and look out the window. There is a dusting of snow on the distant mountains. We pass through the Waipara vineyards and the rolling green hills that look like a Colin McCahon painting. The colours soft and delicate.
The hills are becoming sun kissed, slowly defrosting from the cold night. The sun is just about to peak out from behind a hill. I can see the golden rays. We come around the corner, I expect to see the sun, I have my camera ready, but instead, we are greeted by a thick blanket of fog. Mist is twisting through the bare winter trees. It’s magical, but also a little eerie. I half expect to see Harry Potter dementors coming out from the woods.
After quite some time, we exit the fog. My eyes settle on a beautiful sage green river. The surrounding landscape is rich and warm in colour. Day is here. The sun is very bright now, it is here to stay. We pass braided rivers and snow dusted mountains.
And then we get our first glimpse of the Pacific Ocean. A brilliant ocean of glorious blue, stretching as far as the eye can see. Fortunately the viewing carriage is re opened. This time, I am not the only one.
There is 100Km of coastline. It is home to lots of wildlife. Apparently sometime passengers will spot dolphins or sperm whales. I see a lot of sea birds and even some seals out on the rocks, soaking up the sun.
On one side we have the mighty Pacific Ocean. On the other, the Kaikoura Ranges, dusted in snow. Snow always makes everything look so magical. What a glorious day for travelling.
We then pass though some salt flats. I am amazed at the range of colours; bright turquoise, grey and pink tones. As we approach Marlborough the vineyards become more prominent. We finally reach our destination. Blenheim. The train actually goes right through to Picton. A lot of passengers will get off here and take the ferry across to Wellington. We are also Wellington bound, but my mum gets bad sea sickness so we have decided to enjoy a night in Blenheim and take a short flight home the next day. I love that this is also an option.
There are 3 ‘Great Journeys’ Trains in New Zealand. The Northern Explorer running between Auckland and Wellington. The TranzAlpine that connects Christchurch to Greymouth and the Coastal Pacific traveling between Christchurch and Picton. This was my first time doing any of them and I thoroughly enjoyed it. It is such a relaxing way to travel and I loved watching the changing landscape.
It’s a cool, crisp morning as we head out across the road to an art memorial.
It’s known as 185 Empty Chairs.
185 different chairs, spread out across what used to be the floor of St. Luke’s Church. Now, all that remains is the bell tower and the installed empty white chairs. One chair for every person who lost their life in the 2011 Canterbury earthquake.
It’s early morning. The birds are waking. The air is still. This is a place of rest. A place for remembering.
As I stand there in the silence, looking around me, I notice a couple of tiny chairs. And it hits me. I knew young children and babies also lost their lives, but to see it displayed like this, it stopped me in my tracks. Each chair in fact tells it’s own story, of a person, of a life, one that ended too soon. It’s a very powerful memorial. I take a moment to be grateful for the life I have.
From here we head to Hagley Park for a walk along the river. I love how the Avon River runs right through the city. The park is full of deciduous trees. The last of the Autumn leaves are scattered on the ground, leaving the tall elegant, leafless trees to creating silhouettes against a bright blue sky. There is something very magical about Winter, when the day is dry and clear, the air is cool and there isn’t a Wellington gale force wind blowing.
The water in the Avon is surprisingly clear. I am so used to seeing dirty polluted streams. I hope this becomes a more common sight. The ducks are enjoying the water too and from a bridge, I watch a couple of piwakawaka (fantail) darting about, skimming the water, presumably trying to catch their breakfast.
We reach the Botanical Gardens and come across a hot house which we take a stroll through. The warmth is a welcomed change. Inside is a lush oasis of green. There are several rooms and each seems to get a little warmer. There is one with cacti, another with orchids. The last room is the most impressive though. It has a high ceiling and is filled with plants. There is the sound of running water and climbing plants growing right up to the top. I feel like I am in a jungle.
And I don’t want to leave.
Partly because I am enjoying all the plants, but if I am honest, it’s mostly because I know how cold it will feel outside. But we can’t stay here forever and we have 1 more stop to make.
We brave the outdoors and follow the river down to the Antigua Boat Sheds. I don’t want to leave Christchurch without going for a punt on the Avon River. It’s just the 2 of us on the boat with our guide. We are given a blanket and hot water bottle to keep us cosy and warm before we set off. Our guide shares the local history of the area and all about punting, as we glide ever so gracefully down the river. The boat moves so smoothly through the water. We had just walked the this way alongside the river, but seeing it from this level gives another perspective.
After half an hour of soothing punting it’s time for us to leave the warmth of the hot water bottle and blanket behind. What a great way to experience The Garden City.
We thoroughly enjoyed our time in Christchurch. It’s an exciting, re-emerging city that is colourful and vibrant, filled with an amazing selection of cafes, restaurants and bars. It has done an incredible job of moving forward and looking to the future, without forgetting it’s past. Christchurch has seen some pretty dark days but it has risen up and is claiming it’s place on the tourist map once again.
The engine begins whirring and the propellors spring into life. It’s a rather noisy plane, we are on a little ATR 72-600 on our way to Christchurch.
It’s a morning departure, 8am. It’s a beautiful time to fly. The colours in the sky are soft and peachy, the clouds have golden highlights. It was a dreary, grey, Wellington day, but above the clouds it is always sunny.
I take a look through the inflight magazine, Kia Ora. A picture of Aitutaki, Cook Islands, is on the cover. It looks so inviting with it’s turquoise blue waters. Its white sandy beach is so alluring. However, the majority of the content in this edition is about Aotearoa. It takes me on a photo journey of food festivals, dark sky reserves and glacier hiking. I am quickly reminded again just how extraordinary New Zealand is. There is so much to see and do here. So much beauty to behold. I think I could happily spend a lifetime discovering my homeland.
We touch down in Christchurch. ‘The Garden City’ has put on a stunning winter’s day for us. A bright blue sky and a windless day.
After leading my mum in the wrong direction for about 10 minutes, she takes over map reading and we finally arrive at our Airbnb to drop off our bags. (Never trust me with maps or directions!) We are staying in a modern town house on the edge of the city. A perfect location for exploring.
The last time I was in Christchurch was about 18 months after a 6.3 magnitude earthquake. A lot of the city was damaged and 185 lives were lost. Even 18 months later I remember experiencing aftershocks. The place was in ruins, buildings destroyed, homes destroyed and rubble around the place. So much of the city would need to be replaced.
10 years on the city is flourishing. It is funky and vibrant. There are enticing restaurants and bars, pop up shops, parks and lots of trees. There is a really interesting juxtaposition of old and new buildings. All around the city is vibrant, quirky, colourful street art painted on the sides of buildings. Even the last remaining ruined buildings have a certain beauty to them. There is no lack of things to see here. The heart of the city has started beating again.
Our first stop is Riverside Market. The lane way into the market is filled with boutique shops. We walk past a Chocolaterie claiming to make the best hot chocolates. I tuck that one away in the back of my mind to try later. Inside the market is an exciting range of eateries, international foods, sweets, pastries and more. I spot a truffle stand and spend some time talking to one of the staff. I haven’t had fresh truffles since Italy, (where I may have over indulged.) They are so decadent and delicious. I love talking to local food artisans and produce suppliers, they are always so passionate about what they do. I walk away from the stall with a business card – The Sassy Salt Lady can forage for truffles for you and send them anywhere in the country. This could get expensive!
Inside, the market is fun, funky and bustling. It’s midday and this seems to be the place to grab lunch. So that’s what we do. It does take us a couple of trips around the market looking at everything before we can decide what to order. There are so many scrumptious looking things. We settle on a Cornish pastie from The Great Pastry Shop and head outside to eat in the sun. The pastry is creamy, buttery and oh so good. Sparrows start appearing in numbers, patiently waiting for the crumbs to drop. They rustle about in the leaves and flitter through the nearby trees. They don’t have to wait long though, I am sure Mum must have fed them half her pastry!
With our tummies full, we take a short walk to the Wall of Remembrance. The names of the 185 people who lost their lives in the earthquake are etched into the stone. Friends and family have left photos, poems and flowers at the base of the wall. There is stillness here. A place to stop and reflect. To remember. May they rest in peace.
We wander back home through the city, taking time to look in shops and soak in the atmosphere. And yes, we head back to try the ‘Best Hot Chocolate’ from She Chocolaterie. We enter the shop and are greeted by the warm, rich smell of chocolate. Decadent, but not overly sweet. We get offered a sample and then we are hooked. It’s so good, we have to get one. We stay in the shop for some time, people watching, resting out feet and enjoying the rich warm chocolaty goodness of our drinks.
Initially I thought I would write a post called something like ‘The Ultimate 1 week West Coast Itinerary’. Certainly I have come across many similarly titled blogs. But the more I thought about it the more I realised that the components that make it the ‘ultimate Itinerary’ for me, won’t necessarily be the ultimate for you.
I was in Italy 2 years ago and while I liked Italy, I didn’t love it as much as I thought I would. This has nothing to do with Italy, it’s an incredible place, but more to do with the activities I planned. We did all the art galleries and historical sites, you know, all the things that you do when you go to Italy, but the truth is, art galleries are not really my thing (although seeing the statue of David was quite an experience). I like a bit of history, but I’m not a history buff.
Then we got to Slovenia and we fell in love. The crystal clear waters, snow capped mountains, rolling hills. That’s my thing. If we had spent our time in Italy in the Lake District and Dolomites Mountains, I am almost certain that I would have also fallen in love with Italy.
So I wanted to share our West Coast itinerary with you, but also leave you this piece of advice, this is by no means the only things you should see and do; pick and choose from it, the parts that get you excited and give you wonderlust. Craft your own epic adventure.
Overview
Here is the route we took.
Day 1: Wellington to Picton by ferry, then onto Punakaiki via Nelson
Day 2: Short day trip up to Charlestown with a side trip to Westport
Day 3: Punakaiki to Frans Josef
Day 4: Day in Franz Josef
Day 5: Franz Josef to Hokitika via Okarito
Day 6: Day in Hokitika
Day 7: Hokitika to Mt Lyford via Lewis Pass
Day 8: Mt Lyford Lodge to Wellington via Kaikoura and Picton
Wellington to Punakaiki
Ferry Crossing: The first part of our journey involved crossing the Cook Straight. As we had a vehicle (our motorbike) we had 2 options, Bluebridge or The Interislander. If you are a foot passenger, Bluebridge may be a better option for you as it is located across the road from the train station so is really convenient. I have also found that Bluebridge tends to be a little cheaper. The reason we have used The Interlslander the last couple of times is because of the Plus Lounge, a fully catered, adults only lounge with guaranteed seating. It’s a really relaxing way to start or end your journey and your meal, drinks (and snacks) are taken care of.
The Route: We didn’t take the most direct route to Punakaiki. Being on the motorbike we always look for the scenic coastal routes and twisty roads, trying to stay of big main highways. I would highly recommend Queen Charlotte’s Drive that starts in Picton, taking you around some gorgeous coastline with stunning views, taking you all the way to Havlock.
Food: We carried on to Nelson and stopped for a bite to eat at Burger Culture. Simply scrumptious food. If you’re in the mood for a sugar overload, they have a delicious selection of donuts. And milkshakes, topped with donuts!
Accommodation: We stayed at Te Niaku Lodge which was gorgeous. Our lodge was nestled into the forest, our windows looked out across the canopy. You feel like your in a tree house here. There is also easy access down to the beach where you can watch the setting sun.
Tip: Check your map for directions. We didn’t, we just assumed we were on the right track and ended up taking a rather large detour that added on a fair amount of time.
Charlestown & Westport
The Route: After a long riding day the day before, I had scheduled in a late start. I spent the morning down on the beach, breathing in the fresh ocean air before we made our way to Charlestown for our activity. It’s only a 30 minute drive but the road is sensational. We pretty much had it to ourselves, twisting and turning along the coast enjoying the incredible views. After our activity, we headed another 20 minutes north to Westport to get some petrol before enjoying the great drive back.
Activities: We headed to Charleston for a caving, tubing and glow worm experience with Underworld Adventures. This was a 4 hour tour that was super fun. Caving is such a unique experience and this cave was particularly special, being very much in it’s natural state (no built walkways, hand rails, lighting etc) It also has the most incredible glow worm colony I have ever seen. Honestly, words can’t do it justice, it was out of this world mesmerising!
Food: We loved The Punakaiki Tavern, we had breakfast and lunch there. The hosts were really friendly. The food is what I would describe as simple, hearty, home cooked meals and the outside garden is the perfect place to enjoy the last bit of warmth from the sun before it says goodnight. In Westport we popped into Jimmy’s Restaurant and Bar expecting to grab a quick bite to eat but ended up staying for a couple of hours chatting to a local over some good food and drinks.
Tip: Be sure to keep an eye on your petrol. There’s a station in Westport and Greymouth but nothing in between. They are an hour and a half apart. If you aren’t careful, you might find yourself out of gas!
Punakaiki to Franz Josef
The Route: We headed from Punakaiki to Franz Josef, initially along the stunning coast and then through some beautiful rainforst. We made stops in Punakaiki and Hokitika for some activities.
Activities: We didn’t have any planned activities for the day as it was a riding day, but it was a leisurely ride so we were able to make some spontaneous stops along the way. The first being a walk at Pancake Rocks. The rock formations are quite unique as well as the blow holes. We also stopped at Hokitika Tree Top Walk and experienced the forest from birds eye view. In Franz Josef I also managed a short walk along Terrace Walk track which is through some lush, green glacier rainforest.
Food: We had a rather nice dinner at Monsoon Restaurant & Bar located on site at our accommodation. The buffalo cauliflower was delicious and even my carnivorous husband loved these.
Accommodation: Rainforest Retreat in Franz Josef has been on my bucket list for a long time so I was really pleased to finally stay here. They have a range of accommodation options to suit every budget. They are in some beautiful grounds – lush rainforest, and centrally located. We also were given a room upgrade when we arrived which was a lovely surprise.
Tip: The blow holes at Pancake Rocks is tidal. If you can time your trip with high tide you will see it in it’s most impressive form. But, even if you can only visit at low tide it would still be worth checking out. At the time of writing, Hokitika Tree Top Walk is on Book Me, so if this is something you are able to book in advance then you should be able to get it at a discounted rate.
Activities: It was a last minute booking through Book Me but we were able to spend the afternoon quad biking through some rainforest, sand dunes and across rivers. It’s a great wet day activity. We did this through Across Country Tour.
Food: The power was out for a while so we weren’t sure if we would be able to get brunch anywhere, fortunately SnakeBite was well prepared. They have a really cool atmosphere, mouth watering counter food and an extensive menu. A great place to sit and watch the world go by when it is pouring with rain (or the power has gone out)
Tips: Even if you are traveling in Summer, go prepared for rain. The West Coast is a very wet place (but it makes the rainforest smell incredible) If your looking for a deal in Franz Josef, be sure to check out Book Me. Or you could even just go for a stroll along the main street, I saw a lot of different deals being offered.
The Route: We started heading back up the island, again through the spectacular forest and later along the coast, heading for Hokitika. It’s simply stunning
Activities: Okarito Kayak has been on my bucket list for a long time so I made sure to plan in this little detour. It did not disappoint. The lagoon was mirror like, reflecting the glacier forest and mountains. It is also the breeding site of the Kotuku (White Heron) It was a privilege to get so close to these majestic birds. In Hokitika, take some time to have a wander around the town, check out the beach and take a look at the Hokitika Driftwood sign down on the beach.
Food: We were rather famished after our 3 hour kayak trip so we made a stop in Harihari, a small, rural settlement. We had lunch at the Pukeko Store and Cafe. Filled with some deliciously tempting home baking, pies and friendly service, this was a delightful little stop.
Accommodation: In Hokitika we ended up staying at Mountain Jade Backpackers. I couldn’t find any accommodation that wowed me, at a price I was happy to pay, so we went budget and central. It was a great location, clean tidy facilities and perfect for our requirements.
Tips: Take insect repellent if you go to Okarito Lagoon. They will attack you in thousands!
Activities: Of course you could buy your own greenstone souvenir, but why buy a pre made one when you can carve it yourself. At Bonz ‘n’ Stonz you create your own piece to take home. Everything you need it provided and there are excellent tutors on hand to help you every step of the way. This was a most excellent day.
Food: If your a pizza lover like me, head to Fat Pipi Pizza. Fresh, simple ingredients, delicious food and a lovely outdoor courtyard. Also try Sweet Alice’s Fudge Kitchen if you are craving a sugar hit.
Tips: Make sure you allow time to sit and watch the sunset. Hokitika is famous for its gorgeous sunsets. Even on an overcast day like we had, it was still a beautiful sight.
Link: Read more about my greenstone carving experience here.
Lewis Pass & Mt Lyford
The Route: This is where we left the West Coast. We could have gone back up country through the West Coast but it would have been a lot of back tracking. Instead we headed over to Canterbury to My Lyford, via Lewis Pass. Its a pretty well known route and a nice bit of road.
Activities: Check out Hokitika Gorge before you leave. You will be wowed by the incredible colours of the water. Its an easy walk too, suitable for all fitness levels.
Accommodation: We splashed out a bit here and stayed at Mt Lyford Lodge. Nestled into the mountains with a couple of spa pools, it was the perfect place to soak away the aches of being on a motorbike for a week, while breathing in the fresh air, watching the sun slip behind the hills and enjoying a drink or 2 at the bar.
Tip: Just be alert on Lewis Pass. It’s a popular road with tourists (along with many other South Island roads.) We drive on the left hand side. There are instances where tourists will get confused and drive on the wrong side. Or sometimes just stop on a blind corner to take photos of the beautiful scenery. A lot of our highways are not like highways you may be familiar with. Narrow, single lane and twisty. Make sure you allow a lots of time.
The Route: First you will do the inland route to Kaikoura. If your on a bike, just watch out for gravel, there was quite a bit on the road when we did this ride as well as a year ago when we were down that way. From Kaikoura to Picton you get to enjoy more coastal road, this time along the East Coast. Keep an eye out for seals which you can easily spot from the road while driving (Only do this if your a passenger! Eyes on the road driver.) You will see them on the rocks or frolicking about in the ocean.
Activities: If you are in Kaikoura and an animal lover, Kaikoura Seal Swim is outstanding. Don’t go near seals on land, they can be very aggressive. But in the water, just wow. I have heard them be described as dogs of the ocean and they really are. They are playful, curious and so much fun to watch. This experience was a real highlight.
Link: Want to know more about swimming with seals? Read my previous post here.
A few other things
There were a few activities we didn’t get to do on this trip for various reasons, but I want to still mention them here as I think they would be activities that are well worth while.
The Wild Kiwi Center in Franz Josef. We ran out of time for this one. Here you will be able to see Rowi, the worlds rarest kiwi, and tuatara, often described as the oldest living dinosaur.
Lake Matheson – a glacial mirror lake that is picture perfect. But you want to see it on a nice day to get the full impact of the lake. I have tried to get here twice now. Hopefully it will be third time lucky.
In Franz Josef we were booked in for a glacier nature tour with Glacier Valley Eco Tours. This was unfortunately cancelled due to the weather. We were prepared to get wet, but DOC had closed the walking track. We were in the West Coast back in 2012 and were able to do a tour of Fox glacier. It was such a unique experience and I am definitely keen to do something like this again. The difference being that now, if you want to walk on the glacier, you need to do it by helicopter, you can no longer walk in. The tours with Glacier Valley Eco Tours don’t go on the ice but do offer views of the glacier, along with expert knowledge of the area.
I was hoping to book in a nighttime kiwi spotting tour with Okarito Kiwi Tours. We unfortunately missed out as they closed up from 2nd Feb, but they reopen again in October so make sure you check them out.
At the top of the West Coast is a place called Karamea, home to the Oparara Basin Arches. These natural limestone arches were formed by the Oparara river and sound really impressive. The main reason this one didn’t make it onto our itinerary is because access is down 13km of gravel road. Gravel road is not fun when your on a sports bike.
So there you have it. Some suggestions on how to spend your week on the West Coast. I am sure that you will, like me, fall in love with this part of the country. The people, the forests, glaciers, wildlife, it feels pure and untouched. The glacial rainforest had me captivated. They made me swoon. The vibrant colours, the ancient feel from moss covered trees, it’s unlike any other forest I have experienced before. I couldn’t get enough of it.
Planning a West Coast itinerary? What parts will you be including in your epic adventure?
A coastal town in the West Coast of the South Island with a population just under 3000.
We didn’t really know what to expect when coming here. I booked us a couple of nights because it was a convienent stopover point on our way back up the country and I found out you could do greenstone carving here which I thought would be fun.
What we discovered was a delightful town with lots of crafts, great sunsets and fun activities. It’s a place we would both certainly visit again and I feel this town deserves it’s own post
Here are 10 activities we really enjoyed while here:
Greenstone Carving
This is the reason we came to Hokitika. Although a rather pricey activity, Bonz ‘N’ Stonz was a really cool experiance. You begin by selecting your stone and drawing out a design and work through all the different processes, carving, contouring, sanding and polishing to create a unique piece to take home. It is very hands on with excellent tutors to help you along the way and give guidance on how to use the machines and tools. I wrote a whole post on this activity which you can check out here if you would like to know more.
Art Galleries
Turns out, Hokitika is a bit of a crafty town. I had an afternoon free so I took to the shops to check out the local talent. Of course, there is a lot of jade, stone and bone carving jewellery which you can buy if you don’t have enough time to do a workshop like mentioned above (or if crafts are just not your thing.) But there is much more than just this. There are beautiful artworks, lots of painting and photographs of gorgeous West Coast scenery. Hokitika Glass Studio is also a great place to visit and watch the glass blowers in action. It’s a fascinating process to watch.
Fossic for Stones
At fist glance, this may not seem like the most exciting activity, but I probably spent a good hour (a very enjoyable hour I might add) doing just this. Greenstone, while precious, is also quite common. You can find it down on the beach or along the river banks. Take a stroll along the shore and keep a look out for any interesting stones, you never know what you might find. Once you have collected your treasures, you can take them into Bonz ‘N’ Stonz and they will identify them for you.
Hokitika Sign
No trip to Hokitika is complete without a visit to the beach to get a snap of the famous Hokitika driftwood sign. This huge sign perched right on the beach is made entirely from driftwood. It’s creator, Don Neale, made it a few years back as an entry into the town’s Driftwood and Sand competition which happens every January. It has been a permanent feature ever since. With the mighty Tasman Sea as it’s backdrop, make sure you check it out at different times of the day as the light changes behind it.
Watch the Sunset
Hokitika is pretty well known for it’s epic sunsets. Head down to the beach, pack a picnic and watch the sun slowly slip down below the big blue ocean. After a day of fun and excitement, it’s nice to be able to sit back, relax and marvel at how awesome this world is.
Go to the Flicks
I am not usually one for suggesting you spend your time shut away inside, but if the weather is bad or you are wanting a relaxed evening, why not check out the local cinema. It’s in the center of town in a beautiful heritage building. It was built and opened in the 1930’s and still oozes the charm of the art deco period. It seats nearly 400 people and when we went, we nearly had the place to ourselves.
Fudge
Did someone say fudge? Yes please. Yes, I have a rather sweet tooth and just couldn’t resist making a stop at Sweet Alice’s Fudge Kitchen. It is bright and colourful, the cabinets lined with an assortment of tempting treats. (So hard to choose) So why not grab yourself a slice (or two, you naughty thing!) to enjoy while you walk on the beach or wander around the shops.
Mamma Mia Pizzeria
I do love a good pizza. If you do too, then head to Fat Pipi Pizza’s located pretty much on the beach. Dine inside and enjoy the ambience or outside in their delightful courtyard. Or get take away and have a picnic on the beach or enjoy in the comfort of your accommodation if it’s been a long day. Wherever you dine, their freshly made pizzas are sure to be a delight to your taste buds.
Hokitika Gorge
You will need a car for this one as it’s a bit out of town, but if you want to go exploring and stretch your legs, it’s a really great walk. We did a loop walk that took us about half and hour (wearing bulky motorbike gear) along a well maintained, easy walking track. There are lots of viewing platforms looking out at the gorge and your eyes will be treated to some amazing milky blue and turquoise water.
Hokitika Tree Top Walk
Get up high into the canopy and experience the forest from a different perspective. Enjoy walking along side giants and looking down on canopy, experiencing the forest with a bird’s eye view. Walk along 450 meters of platforms, 20 meters up in the air. For those who are brave, climb the tower, 47 meters above the forest floor or head out onto the cantilever and sway in the wind like a tree. You will need a car to get out to Hokitika Tree Top Walk but its a lovely way to spend an afternoon. We did this walk, you can read about our experience here.
Whatever you decide to do in Hokitika, I am sure you will find the town just as delightful as we did. Did I miss something? What have you loved doing in Hokitika?
It’s the final day of our trip. Tonight we will be sleeping in our own bed again with our 2 dogs snuggled up next to us in the blankets. But it’s not over yet! We have one more activity planned that I am feeling incredibly excited about (and slightly nervous)
We pack up the bike one last time and take the inland route, heading to Kaikoura. We arrive a couple of hours early so we pass the time with coffee, lunch and a walk on the beach.
And then, it’s time for our seal swim! Last year we did a dolphin swim but unfortunately we only saw Hectors Dolphins (which was amazing) but they are protected and you’re not allowed to swim with them. That’s just how it is with wild animal encounters though. It’s never guaranteed, but when it does happen, it’s pretty special.
When I told Daniel I had booked us in to go swimming with seals, he wasn’t impressed. He said, ‘aren’t they super aggressive and don’t they bite? And I don’t want to get wet and cold. I’m not looking forward to this.’
I have grown up knowing that seals can be pretty aggressive and that you should never approach them. But that is on land. On land they pretty immobile, I have always thought they look pretty awkward. Their immobility on land makes them very vulnerable, which is why they can be so aggressive, especially if you get between them and the water.
But in the sea, you are in their world. They are fast and agile and not at all aggressive toward people (so we are told.) They could out swim us in a second if they wanted to so we are no threat.
Today we are joining Seal Swim Kaikoura for this experience. Like most of our tours on this trip, we are the only people. We have definitely witnessed the impact Covid has had on our tourism industry. I hope the industry can re-emerge stronger and even better when our boarders eventually open. New Zealand has so much to offer the world!
We have our safety briefing and get kitted up in all the gear, including a wet suit hood in thick neopreme. It’s all so snug and hard to get on but no doubt will keep us really warm. (Daniel will be pleased) We are also given a mask, snorkel and flippers. They even had prescription masks for Daniel to use which was amazing. I had never really considered his limited visibility without his glasses.
We waddle in all our gear out to the van and take a short drive down to the jetty while Vanessa shares some history of the New Zealand fur seals with us. These seals have very thick, warm fur, which means when settlers arrived, they were heavily hunted. Before being hunted, there were said to be around 1-2 million, but nearly became extinct. Fortunately they became protected in the mid 1900’s and today, the NZ population is around 100-300k. I had no idea they had been hunted so fiercely. I have seen seals in many place in Aotearoa and had never considered them an animal that had been endangered.
We get onto the boat and head out into the ocean. There is a bit of a swell and the boat bumps up and down a bit on the waves. I am the first to spot seals. Two of them. We watch them for a while to see if they are feeding or chilling. They look pretty relaxed, fins flapping about, rolling around in the water. But they are in open water so we move on. Our guide wants to try some other spots to see if we can find some that are closer to the rocks.
Seals spend a lot of their time out in deep water, fishing and feeding. They will stay out there for ages until they are completely exhausted, then they come back to the rocks to rest. Because of their thick fur, they overheat easily so will pop back in and out of the water to cool off on sunny days. Today is cool and overcast so the seals are hanging out on the rocks more than they normally would. We are told we need patience and persistence on this tour.
After visiting a few spots, we find an area that is reasonably sheltered with good visibility in the water, seals on the rocks and one in the water. Perfect. We slip into the water quickly and as quietly as we can, although in all that neoprene I still make a bit of a splash.
We swim out slowly towards the seal, I put my head under, and, AMAZING!
I am looking right at this seal in front of me. What an incredible experience. Another seal gets into the water, then another and at one point there are 4 in the water with us. We spend a lot of time watching each other, checking each other out, the seals getting comfortable with our presence. Then they begin getting curious and swim closer and closer (We are told not to swim closer than 1 meter to them, but if they swim up to you that’s fine) I have the most amazing experience, looking at a seal that is so close and we just hang out in the water, staring at each other for ages. It has such big beautiful eyes and its fur is so sleek. They are such graceful, playful, agile creatures underwater. Nothing like the awkward blobs that sit on land. The ocean is their territory and the own it!
Our guide is floating close by, watching and telling us where to look. A couple of times he calls out, ‘to your left’. I turn my head and there is a seal right there, so incredibly close. A couple of times they swim right under me. I do get slightly nervous at one stage, hoping the don’t decide to have a little nibble on me (after all, they are wild animals), but they are just curious. We spend ages in the water with them, it’s such an unreal experience.
After about an hour in the water, it’s time to head back. I have loved every minute of this, witnessing these beautiful creatures in their natural environment. I awkwardly climb back onto the boat, thinking about what a special experience this has been and then look up to see a pod of dolphins in the distance. What a fantastic trip!
And Daniel, he absolutely loved it.
We make it to Picton and board our ferry. We are in the Plus Lounge again. Now we have discovered it, it’s the only way to travel! We are on an evening ferry so I decide to pop out for a bit and watch the sunset. Even in the open water of the Cook Straight, the water is so flat. I have never seen it like this before, it’s a perfect crossing.
The South Island is a layer of silhouettes. The setting sun has blushed the sky pink with golden highlights that spill out into yellow and indigo water colours behind a dark marbled sky.
What an extraordinary sunset to end an extraordinary trip. Surely I live in the most beautiful place on earth.
It’s a riding day today. We need to get from Hokitika to Mt Lyford. It’s a 4 hour ride, but as we only really need to get from A to B, we decide to head to Hokitika Gorge for a walk.
It’s an easy 30 minute walk, along a well maintained path, through forest, with lots of viewing platforms to stop and admire the view. The track snakes it’s way along, following the gorge. Not long into the walk, we get our first proper look at the gorge from a viewing platform.
It’s stunning. The water is a gorgeous, milky, turquoise blue. I am sure it’s probably quite fast flowing, but the water isn’t wild and raging like I had expected.
It feels peaceful.
Kereru (native wood pigeon) are swooping through the gorge, birds are chattering away and I can hear the sounds of the leaf litter and gravel beneath my feet. The sounds of the forest.
Along the walk we come to two swing bridges. The first holds up to 6 people at a time. It crosses over the gorge and swings about a bit in the air, but not too much. I am ok with this height. My knees aren’t buckling and I am able to get some excellent, uninterrupted views out across the gorge.
The second bridge is much newer. It can hold up to 20 people and doesn’t really move around. Daniel pauses for a while to admire it’s structure and foundations. I am sure if left him to take all the photos, the majority would be of structures, cranes and fancy cars. (We have a lot of motorbike photos from our Italy trip, and Daniel’s photo of the Colosseum is actually of some construction work with the Colosseum in the background!)
It’s quite a warm day. The downside to travelling on a motorbike is having to do the walk in all our protective gear, along with carrying our helmets, as we don’t have enough luggage space to store it with the bike. It’s a rather sweaty walk. But soon enough we are back on the bike and that cools me down pretty quickly. We have a long ride a head of us so we jump back on the motorbike and make our way to Greymouth for lunch.
It’s amazing the difference that weather makes to a place. The last time we stayed in Greymouth, the weather was very dreary, grey and bleak. I didn’t think much of the place. Today the sun is shining, Greymouth is sun kissed and seems rather nice.
We continue our journey, we are heading East, taking The Lewis Pass to get there. We travel through forest and I can smell it. Damp, earthy and fresh. Amazing. I love the way travelling by motorbike allows you to interact with your surrounding and environment, much more so than in a car.
We follow the river for a while and then the road turns up into the hills. Its a really quiet road. It’s normally quite a popular one I believe but with no international tourism at the moment, we have the whole road to ourselves! It’s nice not having to worry about meeting other vehicles driving on the wrong side of the road (which does seem to happen a bit in popular tourist destinations here.)
We arrive at My Lyford, a lodge nestled into the hills. 5 minutes later I am in the spa pool, soaking away the aches from a long ride. Dinner is at the lodge but we decide to have a few pre-dinner drinks over a few games of pool. We are both as bad as each other but it’s an enjoyable and relaxed way to spend the evening.
Today we are stepping out of the box and doing something a bit different.
Greenstone carving.
The Te Reo name for Greenstone is Pounamu. It’s a beautiful stone, found in the South Island. It is highly valued in New Zealand and carvings made from Pounamu play an important part in Maori culture.
I am really looking forward to carving my own stone today which I can take home with me.
We arrive at Bonz ‘n’ Stonz and I take a quick look around the shop at the pendants on display for some last minute inspiration. I have been thinking about this for a while and know I would like to keep it simple and make a drop pendant, but even then, there are so many options it’s a bit overwhelming. Daniel hasn’t given any thought to what shape he will make.
We are introduced to Steve and Niko who are our tutors for the day. The first task is to draw out our shape and choose our stone. These two tasks kind of work simultaneously. The other guy in our class has a picture of what he wants to make. We are not so organised. Both Daniel and I begin flicking through google images to try and decide what we are going to make – it’s a big decision!
I settle on a tapped, rectangular shape which I later am told is called Toki and symbolises strength, determination and courage. (Pretty awesome!) Daniel decides to carve his pendant into the head of a spanner.
There are a couple of containers filled with bits of pounamu so I start looking through it, picking out stones I like the look of and finding the ones that speak to me. It’s quite different to what I am use to seeing. The finished products are always so vibrant and glossy, in it’s natural form it is quite dull and unassuming. There are quite a range of shades, from light green through to very deep, green. There are even some in various shades of brown. It’s hard to choose when they are looking so dull, but if you wipe it with a damp cloth, you get a good indication of what it will look like when it’s polished.
I find a beautiful dark green piece with dark, almost black lines running though it with some lighter highlights. This will make a nice feature. Daniel selects one of the brown stones.
I draw my shape out on paper – a few times. I want to make sure it is symetrical, but also testing out different sizes. I draw it out on the stone in pencil and once I am happy with it, I commit and draw in the line with a marker. One of the tutors then roughly cuts it out, chipping away the stone closer to our drawn line.
Then it’s tool time. We are given aprons and ear muffs and given a quick demonstration on how to use the first tool. It’s like a belt and we have to use it to cut away the stone to the shape we want to make. Some of mine chips away (I am told the stone I picked is very hard) but it doesn’t matter, these will get smoothed away later in the process. Once we have the basic shape, it’s time to contour it. It’s challenging to get it all even, but after some time and perseverance (and some help from Niko) I get it looking pretty good.
The next task is to drill in a hole and make some indentations in the top to make room for the twine to sit. A new tool is required to do this with (a bit like a drill) so again, I am back to learning how to use it. Starting very slow and getting a bit faster as my confidence grows. There is lots of chiseling to do, bit by bit, slowly taking away bits of stone. It’s intricate work but slowly it starts to take shape.
Next it’s time to start sanding. At the start, our tutor told us that he probably spends just as long sanding as he does carving. When I see the 7 sanding blocks in front of me with their various grains, I know I am going to be here a while! I work my way down the blocks slowly so I can get a beautiful finish. Daniel is still carving his spanner – I know we will be here for a while longer so I am in no rush. I think I actually spend more time sanding than I did carving. It’s a slow processes. The stone needs to be wet to sand it, but the scratches and imperfections are easier to see when it is dry, so it’s a repetitive process of wetting, sanding, drying, inspecting then repeat. It’s a mindless task, but I am enjoying seeing the colours and lines start to appear more vividly in my pounamu. It’s getting smoother and smoother beneath my fingers and is starting to look quite stunning. Daniel and I both have trade backgrounds. He was a welder, now mechanic and I was a pattern maker and seamstress. I am really enjoying working with my hands again.
At one stage during the sanding process, a small part chips off. Steve is quick to the rescue and with his masterful skills and 20 years experience, he is able to fix it for me.
After 2 hours of sanding, I decide it’s time for waxing. I move onto the next machine that buffs the stone with wax. I thought it was looking pretty good after the sanding but wowzers! The wax transforms it again. It’s a pretty exciting process to watch.
The next task is to give it a gentle scrub with a toothbrush and some detergent to remove any wax build up and then it gets a quick dip in some baby oil. The twine is added next. It’s a very intricate and complicated processes, wrapping it, weaving it. It needs to be wound tightly and accurately so Niko does this part.
Then, Voilà!
My gorgeous toki pounamu pendant is completed. What a special souvenir to be able to take back home with me. I love the colours in it, and the best part is that I created it. From start to finish, a labour of love. Daniel has done an excellent job with his spanner, shaping it and contouring it, it wasn’t an easy project.
This has been such an amazing and memorable experience. It has taken us 5 hours, but 5 hours well spent I say. If you are ever in Hokitika, make sure you book in a carving workshop with Bonz ‘n’ Stonz. It’s been a real highlight of the trip!
Exploring the Long White Cloud 