It’s a grey, rainy day and the air is cool in Wellington, not holiday weather! But it will be good for travelling – it wont be a car sauna today. But less than an hour into the trip we are greeted with blue skies and sunshine.
We are heading to Pukawa, a small holiday spot on the South West edge of Lake Taupo. I have been to Taupo before but not Pukawa, I am looking forward to exploring a new place.
It’s a 4 1/2 hours car ride but we will make a few stops along the way, the first being a caffeine fix for Dad. Although we are travelling along State highway 1, our main highway, it’s not like the highways you have overseas – a lot of it is a single lane and takes you through varied landscapes. Coastal roads, country roads, a desert road and through forests.
Lunch is a simple picnic at Adventure Park in Levin. There is lots of playground equipment, including adult gym equipment. I have a good laugh at trying it out. There is even a human size ‘mouse wheel’. There were a lot of laughs on this one.
The next stop is to RJ’s licroice factory to pick up some essential supplies for the weekend, possibly buying a bit more than we need. We still have a long way to go so we jump back into the car and carry on.
We pass gorges and beautiful clear water streams, Taihape with it’s giant gumboot, the army camp in Waiouru before getting onto the The Desert Road. We didn’t see any wild Kaimanawa horses but there were some great views of the volcanoes- Mount Ruapehu, Mount Ngauruhoe and Mount Tongariro which form part of the Pacific Ring of Fire.
The Desert Road is probably not a landscape that I would describe as beautiful, but it’s certainly intriguing. It’s vast and dry with scrubby bush. Simplistic, wild and untamed. A different landscape to what I am used to looking at.
As we approach Pukawa, Siri gives us direction to our holiday home but listening to her trying to pronounce some of the Maori names is rather entertaining. We past Steaming Hill, this area has a lot of geothermal activity and we can see steam rising up out of the trees. We get our first glimpse of the lake and it’s beautiful. The late afternoon sun is creating a golden glow on the water .
After a day of travelling, we arrive at our holiday home. And Wow. It looked good in the pictures but this place has exceeded expectations. Nestled amongst native trees and surrounded with birdsong, the place feels like a tree house. From the living room and huge deck there are views over the lake. It’s not long before we are making use of the spa pool, sipping wine and slipping into holiday mode as the sun goes down on our first night away.
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Ok, confession time. I have lived in Wellington for all 37 (nearly 38) years of my life and never once have I been to Matiu/Somes Island.
Today that changes.
Matiu/Somes Island is located in the middle of Wellington Harbour and has a really rich Maori and European history. For generations, Maori have used the island as a pa (hillfort) As the island is only accessible by waka (boat) it was easy to secure and defend. Te Atiawa iwi (tribe) still have guardianship of the island today.
It has been used for human quarantine from the late 19th / early 20th century as well as animal quarantine. During WW1 and WW2, the island was a camp for enemy alien internees who were considered a security threat. Due to it’s position and view points gun emplacements were built on the top of the Island in 1942, but fortunately were never needed. At the top of the island there is a small museum that delves into the history of Matiu/Somes.
Today, it is a scientific and historic reserve and home to some pretty awesome native wildlife.
Lets go explore!
It is perfect weather, I can’t believe my luck. It’s not often you get a wind free day in Wellington. A 25 minute scenic boat trip on the East by West Ferry has me out there in no time. The sun is warm on my skin and I breath in the fresh salt air. Seagulls follow alongside the boat, occasionally swooping down to catch a fish. Wellington city gets smaller and smaller behind me. Today I am trading in city life for an island, even if it is only for a few hours.
We are welcomed onto the island by DOC (Department of Conservation) staff and then go through a Health & Safety briefing and Bio Security. Matiu/Somes Island is predator free. To keep the native flora and fauna safe, we check our bags, pockets and clean our shoes to make sure we are not bringing anything onto the island that we shouldn’t be. My shoes were rather dirty so it takes me a while to scrape out all the mud stuck in the tread of my shoes.
Bio Security done, it’s time for an adventure.
My first impressions are the trees on the island look pretty windswept. They must get quite a hammering on this side of the island. The seagulls are huge and rather noisy. They circle above me, effortlessly gliding in the wind. And the cicadas! I haven’t heard them much this season and certainly not at this volume, their chorus is loud but they are a welcomed sound of Summer.
Most of the shoreline is protected, it’s home to our little blue penguins, along with other sea birds and seals so we don’t want to be disturbing them. There is a short section of the shoreline that can be walked, so this is where I head first. I pass native flax, toi toi and pohutakawa before finding a sunny space next the the waters edge where I sit, watch and listen for a few minutes. I always find the oceans become alive when you take the time to sit and watch.
Seagulls are cliff diving against brilliant blue skies. The gentle, lapping sound of the waves moves to the rhythm of my soul. I always find this sound so peaceful.
I then take a walk up through forest, heading towards the top of the island. And there, something incredible happens. I get the privilege of seeing a Tuatara in the wild. Tuatara are a type of reptile found only in New Zealand. While they look a bit like a big lizard (they are New Zealand’s largest lizard), they are actually part of the Sphenodontia family which dates back to the dinosaurs. They are the only surviving species from this group.
They are the most magnificent creatures. To look into the depth of a Tuatara’s eyes is a humbling experience. It was such an honor. They are old souls that give us a glimpse into life long ago. It is such a privilege to see one of these creatures in the wild. They can live up to 100 years, I wonder how old this Tuatara is?
After I manage to tear myself away from watching the Tuatara (doing absolutely nothing but it was still mesmerising), I find myself a quiet picnic bench overlooking the lighthouse with views out to Wellington City. Its a different perspective seeing Wellington from here. It’s a pretty city, compact and framed against blue water and green hills.
A simple pleasure in life is just to sit, to be, amongst nature, absorbing your surroundings with no agenda, nowhere to be, nothing that needs doing. So that’s what I do.
And it is wonderful.
After lunch I continue exploring the island on the loop walk. I hear lots of rustling leaves as I make my way around the island. It’s the little lizards getting out in the sun to warm themselves but they dart back into the safety of the bush when they hear me coming. It’s the common skinks that I see, but never have I seen any this big before.
At a high look out point, I look over the edge and find I am looking down on the birds flying around. I am used to looking up at them and it’s a unique experience to view them from above. The sea along the shoreline is so clear and then fades into brilliant jewel colours.
I have one last stop to make before heading home – the very top of the island. I think the seagulls must be nesting. I meet some very stroppy ones, squawking at me, telling me to go away. One even circled me and began swooping down at me.
At the top I am rewarded with incredible 360 degree views. I can see why this site was chosen for gun emplacements. Some of them still remain today, in various conditions. I find the rooms a bit creepy actually and only stand at the entrance, not wanting to go inside. Maybe it’s the way my footsteps echo off the concrete walls.
It’s time to head back down to the wharf to catch the ferry back home. Matiu/Somes island is such a treasure. A pearl of Wellington. I can’t believe it took me this long to visit, but I am so glad that I did!
I love walking. Getting outside, amongst nature, in the fresh air. It is one of life’s delights. It’s not Daniel’s favorite thing to do though so it can be hard sometime to encourage him to come for a walk.
We did get one day of great weather during our 4 night New Plymouth trip and on that day, we did 3 walks. Daniel also helped me cook dinner and then did the dishes (who is this person?) I later found out he had 5 coffees that day. Note to self, make sure Daniel has lots of coffee!
There are lots of walks out this way and I am sure that whatever you choose you will enjoy, but here are the 5 walks we managed to squeeze in between the rain.
Paritutu Rock. ‘When you go to New Plymouth, you have to climb Paritutu rock and see if you can beat my time. I did it in 13 minutes.’ These were the words from my dad.
The first part is mostly steps which get steeper and steeper. Daniel races off. He is on a mission to beat 13 minutes. I struggle. The steps are hard on my knees and really, I don’t expect to beat dad.
This is not an easy stroll. Paritutu stands 156 meters tall and the ascent is steep. I had seen this rock from a distance from Fitzroy beach. It has a very distinct, pointy silhouette. And now we are climbing it.
Half way up, the steps stop and you are left climbing rocks and boulders up a pretty steep cliff face. There is a chain to hold onto to help you scale the cliff.
The views from the top are excellent and makes the challenging walk/climb so worth it. You will be rewarded with stunning uninterrupted 360 degree views across New Plymouth.
I found the descent much harder. Make sure you take your time. This is not an easy walk. Back at the car park my legs feel like jelly. I will be feeling this tomorrow and the days to come!
Oh, and my time, 9.27 minutes. And Daniel was about 7 minutes. Turns out dad couldn’t remember his time so he just made up a number!
Coastal Walkway. The New Plymouth Coastal Walk Way is a 13.2km path that stretches from Port Taranaki to Bell Block Beach. It’s mostly flat, easy walking, following the coast. You don’t need to walk the whole track, just choose a starting point and begin your stroll. We did our walk from Fitzroy Beach to Te Rewa Rewa Bridge adding in a loop walk around Lake Rotomanu. Being summer, there was an explosion of red flowers on all the Pohutakawa trees which looked stunning. We did this walk in the middle of the day, on a rather hot day. I found there was limited shade on this walk so make sure you go prepared. The New Zealand sun can be pretty harsh!
Paritutu Centennial Park. We headed back to Paritutu, not to climb it this time, but to take a walk through the park next to it. Starting at the base of Paritutu rock I felt a sense of pride looking up at it, knowing that I had climbed it the day before. The walk passes through lush open grass, native flaxes and forest, running along side the coast. We found a park bench along the way and sat and watched the surfers cruising the wave in Back Beach. I was surprised at how many surfers there were. It’s not a common sight in Wellington. The walk eventually comes out at another car park with steps leading down to the beach so we walked back along the sandy beach, past the surfers and huge, impressive cliff faces. Apart from the stairs down and back up from the beach it was an easy walk with some great views.
Fitzroy Beach. The house we rented was only a short walk away from Fitzroy beach, so needless to say, come rain or shine, I was down there at least once everyday. When the sun shines, its a very popular beach for swimming and patrolled by lifeguards. But come evening (or early morning) or in the rain, you pretty much have the place to yourself. The huge stretch of sandy, flat beach makes it the perfect place to to take a stroll, have a swim, watch the sunset or just relax.
Pukekura Park I have been to New Plymouth once before, when I was a teenager. The light festival at Pukekura Park is the only thing I remember from that trip. I am not sure I have actually seen this park in the daylight but have no doubt that it would be a beautiful place for a walk.
Come evening, during the Summer school holidays, the park it brilliantly lit for Festival of Lights. There are some beautiful displays and the colourful lights twinkling off the lake are gorgeous and romantic. There is even live music on some of the nights so be sure to check that out.
It’s an early start for us as two little heads pop in through our bedroom door checking to see if Auntie and Uncle are awake. Looks like sleep ins are off the table on this holiday.
The sky is grey and moody today but it’s still warm, so I pop down to the beach after breakfast for a quick stroll and splash in the the waves. I don’t let the light rain stop me from getting outdoors.
The beach is lovely. We pretty much have it to ourselves. The water is warm and I enjoy splashing about in a very uncoordinated manner with one of my nephews. Thinking back to my last year of travel, some of the best moments have been the carefree, childlike play in the waves. Such a simple activity (and as a bonus, completely free) but oh so delightful!
But then the rain gets heavier and thicker. The sun umbrella my father-in-law brought down ain’t going to keep us dry in this weather. We arrive back at the house, soaking wet, but honesty, I feel so alive and invigorated.
The rain looks like it’s here to stay, at least the weather forecast is telling us so – heavy rain and potential thunder storms. So, if like us, you find yourself on holiday in New Plymouth in relentless wet weather, here are a couple of activities to entertain young and old.
Todd Energy Aquatic Centre. I’ll admit, it’s been a long time since I have been to a swimming pool and I had my doubts about enjoying this, but it actually turned out to be a pretty great morning. (Except for forgetting to pack Daniels togs and having to buy a pair at the pool) This place has indoor and outdoor pools with a ton of different inflatables, water features and pool toys to use.
The main pool has a wave machine that seemed to go off every hour which created challenging conditions for my uncoordinated self to get up onto an inflatable boat our family was using. There is an inflatable pool obstacle course where you try to get from the pool edge to the end of the inflatable. I only got over the first hurdle on my first attempt but 2 more goes and I managed to make it all the way to the end. Further than anyone else in the family – pretty proud of myself with that one!
And then there was the hydroslide. There were 2 actually. A family friendly one and a turbo slide. It’s been a very long time since I have been on a hyrdoslide, probably not since my youth, but I am keen to give it a go. I line up with my husband, mother in law and 8 year old niece to give the family friendly one a try. Not too bad. A section of the slide is pitch black which I wasn’t expecting and initially gave me a bit of a shock, but otherwise not too scary. So then we all decide to give the turbo slide a go. While waiting in the queue I look outside to the slides twisting and turning and notice that the turboslide has a rather steep gradient at the start. It makes me feel a little nervous, but kids are lining up to do it so it can’t be that bad.
Famous last words. It was TERRIFYING!!! That steep gradient near the start created a falling sensation, it the pitch black. I couldn’t see anything. I was falling and I couldn’t feel anything around me supporting my body. The shock of it all caused me to struggle breathing as water splashed all around me. After what felt like forever (but probably only a couple of seconds) I can feel the sides of the slide around me again as I begin slipping and sliding up the walls. All I can do is try to focus on my breathing. I exit the slide in chaotic mess and look up to see my mother in law standing there. I exclaim ‘that was awful’!! She replied with ‘I know, it was horrible!’ My niece loved it!
I decided that I couldn’t let that slide defeat me. I can be brave. I know what to expect this time. I line up again. But last minute I chicken out and jump into the line for the family hydro slide. It felt pretty tame after the last one. I finally build up the courage to do the turbo slide again. Not quite so terrifying but I certainly wont be lining up to do it again.
After all that fun and terrifying excitement, I ease my tense muscles by soaking in the spa for a bit.
Naki Nitro Indoor Karting. As a kid, I had a rather traumatic experience when I couldn’t get the gokart to stop (I had my foot on the accelerator and brake) and ended up crashing into the shop and almost taking out the owner. I have never been a fan of them ever since. I was also exhausted from all the swimming so decided to sit this one out, but everyone else loved it. Especially the kids. Seeing their little faces light up as they drive around the course was pretty awesome. Even thought they were only going about 2km per hour, they loved it! Especially Vincent. He was too young to drive his own gokart so he went in a 2 seater with my husband as he specifically requested Uncle Daniel as his driver. They went flying around the course lapping everyone multiple times with Vincent wearing the biggest grin.
Mini Putt. But not just any old mini putt, this is black light mini putt! This 18 hole course is fairly easy but rather unique. With a pirate/ underwater theme, you make your way around the glowing course. I came first equal with my father-in-law. Maybe that’s why I loved it so much! There is also a bowling alley and video arcade at the same venue, so lots to keep you entertained with.
The Beach. Yes, I know this a list of suggestions of things to do when it’s raining. But when was the last time you walked in the rain? It can be so magical. Put on your raincoat (or not) and head out for a walk. Feel the rain on your skin. Smell the damp earthiness of the forest and don’t worry about getting wet. There is always a hot shower waiting for you back at home.
It’s another car sauna situation. We really must get the air con fixed in our car!
It’s the 1st of January and we begin the New Year with a family trip to New Plymouth. After some last minute packing, we are on the road, an hour and a half behind schedule and minus a few things I forgot to pack, but we are in holiday mode so ‘she’ll be right’
We pass many little beach towns on our drive, it’s made me realise how much of this country I still have left to explore. New Zealand really is a Summer Paradise. I am hoping kiwis are taking this opportunity to explore their own back yard. There is so much to see and do!
Its a hot sunny day and we are feeling it in the car! Each time we enter a 50km zone, the windows come straight down and then regrettably back up again when we get onto the motorway. We meet up in Whanganui at Kowhai Park, with half the extended family. (The half, who like us, had a casual morning departure) Its a great park for families. Running along side the mighty Whanganui River, it has a rather exciting playground that could keep children entertained for hours. It’s certainly a popular place. We set up a picnic under the shade of a tall tree, although I am the only one eating it, hubby had Macca’s on the drive up.
We are only half way to our end destination so we carry on with the journey. Driving through the Whanganui town center, I notice a difference in the vegetation. There are palm trees and tropical looking flowers, very different to what you see in Wellington. We are heading towards warmer weather!
We decide to take the Surf Highway. It’s longer and not as direct, but Daniel did the direct route a year or so ago and said it was really boring. So, it’s the coastal route for us. There aren’t many cars on the route, so we get a clear run and it is scenic. We get views of Mt. Taranaki, although the peak is surrounded by clouds, and some interesting looking land formations – flat land with lots of small hills scattered across it.
We are the last to arrive at our New Plymouth holiday home. Everyone is sitting outside, enjoying the evening sun. We waste no time getting out the bubbles and chippies and spend some time chatting.
After dinner we take an evening stroll. The house is in a great location, it’s only a few minutes walk from Fitzroy Beach. The sky is a smudgy mix of soft sunset colours. The evening air is still and pleasant and I delight in walking bare foot on the sand, waves lapping at my feet.
This trip happened just before Christmas in 2020, I just haven’t had a chance to write about it until now.
Would you drive an hour for some cheese?
I did. Let me share the story.
Back in September, Daniel and I stayed a night at the luxurious Wharekauhau Estate in Cape Palliser. One of the many delicious meals we had contained The Drunken Nanny Black Tie Cheese.
It was sensational.
A creamy soft goats cheese that left my taste buds wanting more. The pyramid shaped cheese is coated in a dusting of ash made from grape vines, imported from France. It looks stunning on a plate and I knew I just had to have it for my Christmas cheese platter.
I tried a couple of local stockists without any luck, so I decided to take my mum on a day trip to get the cheese and try some local delights.
We set off with Martinborough on our radar. Our fist stop is Olivo, the oldest commercial olive grove in Martinborough, with over 1200 olive trees. As we head down the long, stately driveway, surrounded by Olive trees, I say to my mum that this time (I was here about 10 years ago) I am not going to buy any infused olive oils. As fragrant and delicious tasting as they are, I lacked imagination on how to use them and in the end, they went to waste.
We are welcomed into the tasting room by the host who starts to tell us about the oils they produce and the olive trees that they grow. I love hearing the stories of farm to table by local food artisans.
First we try the extra virgin olive oils. There are 3 varieties, Koroneiki, these trees originate from Greece, Tuscan estate oil, made from a blend of Frantoio and Leccino olives, originating from Italy and Estate Extra, a blend of Barnea (Israeli) and a touch of Manzanillo (Spanish) olives. They each have a distinctive taste and all utterly delicious. I make sure to get lots of oil on my piece of bread. Fresh bread and olive oil is one of my favorite things!
We then try some of the infused oils; lemon, smoked paprika, fennel, porcini and more. But my favourite had to be the vanilla. I couldn’t help myself! While I did get some of the extra virgin olive oil, I also walked away with a bottle of the vanilla oil. It was too good to pass up. They call it their dessert olive oil and this time, I will be sure to use it!
It was a really interesting and informative tasting session. Although not running that day, Oilvo do run tours of the grove which I would love to do one day.
Lunch was up next. It’s a lovely day and while walking past the shops, deciding where to go for lunch, we pass a sign at The Grocer advertising, fresh homemade Christmas mince pies. Well, we couldn’t turn that down so lunch became a picnic in The Square under the tall shady trees.
After browsing the boutique stores, we make our way to The Martinborough Sweet Shop where we are booked in for chocolate tastings. The store is beautiful, colourful, enticing and any sweet tooth’s dream.
We are led out to a back room which instantly feels cool. They can’t let the room get too warm or the chocolate will melt. We are seated at a bar table with china cup and saucer and our host prepares some lemon and lime tea. Not only does this warm us up a little, it also works as a pallet cleanser between tastings.
There are bars of chocolate lining the walls. The Martinborough Sweet Shop doesn’t craft their own chocolate, instead they showcase a variety of artisan delights from around the country. There are a couple of brands I have heard of before, like Schoc Chocolate, but most them are new to me.
We are presented with a plate of 15 chocolates, ranging from white to milk through to dark. We begin with the white chocolates. Sweet and creamy they get the taste buds watering. We make our way around the plate, from light to dark, sipping tea and learning about the different chocolates and the chocolatiers who create these delectable treats.
We try some expected flavours like salted caramel and single origin milk chocolate, some fruity ones like white chocolate lemon and white chocolate raspberry. We tried something I have never heard of – ruby chocolate. It is naturally pink in colour and has a similar taste to white chocolate.
There were also some rather unexpected flavours; buttered toast. (Yes it tasted exactly as it sounds. I love buttered toast but I am not sure I was a fan of this one) and curry and poppadom!! Some people are so creative! My favourite though was a collaboration with a local wine maker, Moy Hall. Their Pinot Noir chocolate was absolutely divine!
After an hour of chocolate tastings, it’s time to move on. But not before spinning the wheel to find out what our bonus prize is. I won a white chocolate passion fruit bar. (And may have also purchased a bar of the Pinot Noir chocolate to take home with me.)
We have one last stop before heading back to Wellington, C’est Cheese – the whole reason for our trip. They stock a huge variety of cheeses, chutneys, relishes and other delights, including a well stocked fridge of The Drunken Nanny, Black Tie Goats cheese. Yes!
Was it worth the hours drive? Lets just say, it didn’t last on the platter long enough for me to get a photo of it. I did get to eat some though. My husband bought me a slice, not served on a cracker, but on a couple of squares of white chocolate. Sound weird? I thought so too, but think ‘white chocolate cheesecake’. WOW. What an excellent combination.
No doubt, I will make that trip again for the cheese. It is that good!!
I don’t know about you, but I have been enjoying dreaming up all the places I want to see this year, adventures I want to go on and experiences I want to have. There is so much to see and do here and everyday I am so grateful that I get to call this place home.
I am very fortunate to work for a company that gives us 6 weeks of annual leave, but even with all those days, I think I might be pushing it to do all these things. (And I am sure the credit card will have something to say about it too!)
So, without further ado, here are my travel ambitions for this year:
Explore the West Coast of the South Island. Its a pretty rugged place. Untamed, natural and gorgeous. Mirror lakes, glaciers and rainforest. Its also the wettest place in New Zealand. We drove through the West Coast about 8 years ago when we explored the South Island on our Motorbike. It rained the whole time we were there. When driving through Arthur’s Pass, we reached the sign that said ‘Welcome to the West Coast’ and right on cue, it began to rain. The itinerary is planned, our leave is organised and the pet sitters are locked in, I just need to actually book it all! This time I am hoping we will get to experience some sunshine. I have some pretty awesome activities planned out for this one. And of course, we will be on a Motorbike!
Wine! Last year we made a trip to Martinborough and cycled around the vineyards. We are only an hours drive away from here and I am super keen to do this again. However, this time, I want to pre-plan it (more so than last time) so we can visit the boutique vineyards that are only open for tastings by appointment. I am really interested to see what some of these vineyards have on offer and to hear their stories.
Go on the much delayed, Covid interrupted trip. My mum and I are both April babies. Last year, we were meant to have a birthday weekend away in Greytown. This was cancelled due to Level 4 lockdown. I then rebooked it for August but we had another outbreak which saw Auckland go back into Level 4 and the rest of the country into level 2. I booked it a third time for December and the host cancelled it as she had international family staying in the Airbnb for the foreseeable future due to the covid situation in their country. So, I am really hoping that this year we will be able to get our birthday trip in. Maybe to Greytown, or maybe Whanganui. Perhaps we can do both!
Take the dogs on holiday. For so long I have wanted to take a little holiday with the whole family. I have been pondering the idea of camping but all the ‘dog friendly’ camp sites require the dogs to be on a lead at all times. And we don’t have a tent. I have looked at lots of properties that say they are dog friendly, but then I read the small print and in some cases, the dogs aren’t even allowed in the house. My dogs are small, non shedding and are allowed on the furniture at home and sleep in our bed (yes, I know, spoilt) so it wouldn’t really be a holiday if I had to spend the whole time keeping them off the furniture. But…I have recently found an Airbnb in Otaki Beach that not only allows small non shedding dogs in the house, they are also allowed on the furniture and the bed! I can’t wait to do this! I am hoping I will be able to find some more dog friendly places so we can have more adventures together.
An adventure trip. I would so love to Kayak Able Tasman in a guided tour but it is pretty pricey. Definitely one day, but for now I have my eye set on the 3 day self guided river canoe down the Whanganui river. Being self guided it is much cheaper. There are cabins along the way so you don’t need to take tents and you can stop at your leisure to enjoy the surroundings. I am trying to convince my dad that this is a trip he should do with me.
Family holiday part 2. Last Spring, I spent a weekend at Waitarere Beach with my mum, dad, brother, sister in law, nephew and niece. We had so much fun and decided there and then that we needed to make this a seasonal trip. We are now half way into Summer so need to get cracking on this one! Lake Taupo sounds like a possibility. I am really keen to get my nephew out on a kayak or paddle board! The plan is to also have an Autumn, Winter and Spring trip. Watch this space.
Anniversary Trip. Last year, Daniel and I celebrated our 10 year wedding anniversary in Queenstown. I had no intention to mark this occasion annually with travel, but we had such a great time, so why not. This time I am thinking maybe the Northern Explorer train journey with a few stops on the way. Maybe the Chateau in Tongariro. Hubby doesn’t know about this yet and he would rather be at work than on holiday so this one might be a bit of a challenge!
My annual ‘holiday on my own’. I have done this twice now. At the end of the year. An opportunity to get away on my own for a couple of days and recharge my batteries. So far I have been to Waiheke Island and Marlborough Sounds. I have no plans of where for this year, but Akaroa has crossed my mind.
So that’s my list! I am sure there will be more dreams and travel inspiration that pop up during the year, as well as unexpected adventures that present themselves. Will just have to wait and see.
What are your travel aspirations for 2021? Where in Aotearoa are you hoping to visit?
Happy New Year!! and Happy 1st birthday to my blog! A whole year of blogging, it’s hard to believe really. Thanks for coming on the journey with me.
2020 is a year that I’m sure no one will be forgetting anytime soon. As the year came to an end, I began reflecting on the year that has been. I am so proud of my country, for the massive effort we all put in, our commitment to sticking to lock downs and supporting one another. Because of this, life here in Aotearoa has looked quite different to the majority of the world.
I count myself very fortunate to be in the position I have been in. While international travel has been off the cards, I have been able to do a lot of travel around my own backyard this year. (And lets be honest, New Zealand is a pretty spectacular country to have as your travel playground)
I wanted to do a post on my top 5 experiences. Those WOW moments. The ones that stop you in your tracks, make time stand still and take your breath away.
It’s hard to choose, I have had many incredible experiences this last year, but I am making myself pick.
So here it is.
My top 5 WOW moments.
1 –Glamping on Waiheke Island. This was my first time glamping and I absolutely loved it. Falling asleep to the soft pitter patter sound of rain on the canopy of the tent and waking to the sounds of the birds, absolutely magical. Stripping back the busyness of life and getting back to nature, it certainly recharges the batteries. You can read about my full glamping experience here.
2 – The drive to Glenorchy. We did this road twice in 2020. Once on our motorbike, the second time in a hired Mercedes-Benz CLS 55 AMG. Maybe it’s because it was the first time, but I way preferred the trip on 2 wheels. We had bright blue skies, a dusting of snow on the mountains and instagramable moments around EVERY corner. Around every bend I would find myself gasping at the beauty before me. Not only does this rate in my top 5 moments of 2020, it also rates in my top 5 motorbike rides. Ever. The road to Glenorchy.
3 – Trust the Chef Mealat No. 5 Church Lane. It was a spontaneous dining decision. I found them on line, they had some good reviews, so we decided to give it a go. When we saw a 7 course, Trust the Chef option on the menu, well, we just had to try it. It surprised and delighted me far beyond what I was expecting. Every serving was creative, delicious and left me on the edge of my seat, waiting to see what would be next. This was a culinary journey that left me wanting more. Dining in Queenstown.
4 – Kayaking in Wanaka. Kayaking (and now also paddle boarding) will always end up as a top experience for me, I just love it so much. The stillness, the quiet and being surrounded by all that water, it’s so rejuvenating and refreshing. Throw in crystal clear water and views of mountain peaks covered in snow and you have one very happy kayaker. Lake Wanaka is the perfect place to get out on the lake and experience some stunning New Zealand scenery. Chillin’ in Wanaka.
5 – Playing in the waves at Waitarere with my 4 year old nephew. Sometimes, it is the simplest of things that bring us the most pleasure. This was one of those experiences. It had been so long since I walked bare foot in the sand and felt the waves tickle my ankles. My nephew’s delight in jumping over waves and playing in the sand, so carefree, was contagious. We spent ages having childish fun and it was brilliant. A weekend at the beach
So there you have it. What was your favorite travel moments of 2020? Drop me a message, I would love to hear from you.
New Zealand has many amazing walks all across the country. There is even one called Te Araroa that goes from Cape Reinga at the very top of the North Island where the Pacific Ocean and Tasman Sea collide, all the way down to Bluff at the very bottom of the South Island. Queen Charlotte Track is a multi day walk that can be accessed from Lochmara lodge, so today I go on a walking adventure.
But before my walking adventure begins, the day starts with some kayaking. Another early start, but I like it that way. The water is so still first thing in the morning and I have the inlet to myself. I don’t see any seals or dolphins but there is other marine life to spot. The Marlborough Sounds are rich in wildlife. I spot a nesting seagull perched in the rocks. She keeps a beady eye on me. The water is incredibly clear, there are lots of shell fish including the biggest mussels I have ever seen. Some of them are the size of my forearm! I also spot some moon jellyfish. I find jellyfish mesmerising, they way they dance through the water, my eyes are fixed on them. I follow the coastline back and get to hear all the birds singing away.
Back on land I have a quick breakfast, pack my bag, lather on the sunscreen and by 8:45am I am on the track. From the lodge, it’s about an hour’s walk to get to Queen Charlotte Track. I am heading to Onehau Lookout. A couple of sections of the track are quite steep, but for the most part it is reasonably flat and easy walking. I make it to the lookout, 360 degree views of gorgeous turquoise water, golden sandy bays and forest. I didn’t realise just how much coastline there is in The Marlborough Sounds. So many little coves, bays and inlets to be explored.
It’s only 10:30am, I am not ready to head back so I decide to walk on further to Mistletoe Bay. The tracks leads me down, then further down and down some more. It makes sense, I was at the top of a lookout and now I am heading to a bay, so I need to go down, but all I can think about is how I am going to have to come back up!
The track opens up and I am wowed with a beautiful outlook over the sounds. I think this view is even more striking than from the lookout. I get out my phone to take some photos and notice that I have wifi reception. For some reason, the network connection with my provider is almost non existent at the lodge, but from here, in the middle of nowhere, I have great reception. So I video call my parents, my husband and grandmother from Queen Charlotte track and show them all the views.
I keep making my way down and after what feels like a really long time I make it to Mistletoe bay. I find a nice grassy area to eat my picnic lunch which I had prepared for me at Lochmara. I take my time to enjoy the view, refuel and take some pictures of a duck.
As I make my way back, I find the uphill isn’t as bad as I was expecting. I manage it fairly well. Sometimes the down hill is actually harder. I start looking for reference points that I recognize, places that I remember, to try and gauge how much further I have to go. I’ll confess, the last hour I was definitely feeling it in my hips and legs and all I can say is that I hobbled back to my room, very much aware of the blisters that had formed on my feet. I was out for 6 hours. I am pretty pleased with how far I managed to walk. I am also feeling rather pleased with myself for thinking to pre-book a massage for this evening.
If you are needing time away, time to escape and relax, come to Lochmara. Get lost, and there, amongst the bird calls, the stillness and the peace, you will find yourself.
Day 2 of my holiday and my alarm goes off at 7am. I am instantly regretting that decision. But 10 minutes later, when I am standing on a paddle board in the middle of The Sounds on mirror flat water, best decision ever!
No one is around, I have the inlet to myself. I paddle out a way, stop, close my eyes and just listen. Birds singing, water lapping and that’s it. Places like this always make me want to move out of the city.
I am heading to the other side of the inlet, I was told there is a nesting shag colony. I stand on my paddleboard looking up at them, they are watching me to, especially the mama birds, they are keeping a close eye on me. Little fluffy chicks are perched up high in their nests. Then I look at the water below me. Crystal clear. I love to just watch in places like this. What initially may look like water and rocks starts to come alive the longer you linger. Sea cucumbers are the first thing I notice, then tiny fish darting about. Starfish and Kina are there too. Life is all around us.
I am back at the shore by 8am and already the wind is starting to pick up a bit. Early is definitely the best time to go. I think I will do another early morning trip while I am here. I read there is a point where the seals like to hang out at. That could be fun.
Lochmara has an underwater observatory. A semi submerged boat with glass windows so you can become part of the underwater world. The tour begins at the shore with stingray feeding and some hungry shags.
Lochmara used to have about 15 short tail stringray that had been trained for hand feeding. In Feburary, a pod of hungry orca visited the inlet and ate all their trained stingray. There are a couple of new stringray that they are now trying to train. The are such graceful creatures. Our tour is with a marine biologist who is able to share some facts about the stingray. Such as their size. They can grow up to 2 meters wide and 4 meters long!! The short tail stingray are one of the largest species of stingray. The one she is feeding today must be young. It’s big, but nowhere near that big. The sting that they have on their tail takes a very long time to regrow, so if they use it, it leaves them very vulnerable without any means for defense. For this reason, if the choice is between fight or flight, they will choose flight. The only time they would really sting a human is if you stand on them (you can avoid this by shuffling your feet in the sand) or if you interfered with them.
We then move onto the touch pond. Its an educational place and the children in the group are having a blast, picking up starfish, seaweed and hermit crabs. There are even a couple of seahorses in there (not allowed to touch them) but I use my gopro to film them. Like the stingray, they are very graceful and seem to be quite shy creatures.
We head onto the boat and down below the deck. We are transported into a marine world. Fish are everywhere and the shags are diving down swimming past the windows. I see lobsters and a moon jellyfish. Jellyfish are really interesting to watch. These particular ones sting, but their stingers are too small to pierce human skin so we don’t need to worry about getting stung by them. Its a whole other world down there and rather fascinating to watch!
After lunch I head out to see the animals being fed. Lochmara has a variety of animals on site as well as a rehabilitation center. The have some breeding programs and are able to educate visitors about the different animals. First up is the Kunekune pigs and they are hungry. They are incredibly messy eaters, they loose their teeth as they get older so their tongue hangs out the side while they are chowing down the food. A cheeky, brave Weka sneaks in to quickly grab some of the food scraps. Having the pigs helps with the waste management. Anything that can be fed to the pigs is. There is no waste disposal here so rubbish has to be shipped out.
Next up is the eels but they aren’t hungry. Our guide said they are pretty spoilt. They get fed blue cod but if they don’t think it’s fresh enough, they wont eat it and just wait for the next day. They are quite fascinating creatures. There are 2 varieties, the long fin eel and the short fin eel. They look very similar but the difference is important. There are not a lot of long fine eels. They can live up to 100 years or more and only breed once in their lifetime. They swim all the way to Tonga to breed, then the babies drift all the way back to New Zealand. I also learnt that eels can survive out of water for 3 days, so long as their skin stays wet. They can climb waterfalls that are 20 meters and jump 10 meters high. So, as our guide points out, if they wanted to leave the pond they are in, there is nothing stopping them.
Last up is the Kakariki. Our little native parrot with bright green feathers that look a bit like moss. They have a red crest on their head and blue tones in their wings. They are pretty little birds that make quite a loud screeching sound. We are given some bird seed in our hands and the Kakariki waste no time landing on our palms to feed. The first one that lands in my hand starts flicking off all the seed. It’s looking for the sunflower seeds. I really enjoyed this experience. It’s special to be able to get so close to them. One even lands on my head.
I decide to escape the day crowds and go for a bit of a wander around the place, there is lots to discover and explore. I come across some lamas, sheep and goat grazing in the grass. There are ‘Punga People’ carvings done into trees, a lizard inn, ‘Crumpy’s Camp’, a replica of an early bushman’s lodge and lots of signs that tell you about all the different flora and fauna. It’s an educational walk. Higher up, I come to the observatory. An open grassy area with hammocks. It would be a great place for star gazing. But also pretty good for an afternoon nap which is what I do.
After dark I head out again down to the bay. There is bioluminesence in the water. It’s too cold for me to be tempted to go for a swim so I grab a kayak paddle and move it about in the water and watch it sparkle in the night. I have never seen anything like this before.