Tasting the delights of Tāmaki Makaurau – Part 1

In the words of Queen: ‘It’s a beautiful day, the sun is shining, I feel good, no one’s gonna stop me now’

I leave Daniel sleeping and I head out to explore. We are booked in for a wine tasting tour today, but that’s not till 10:30am so there is plenty of time for me to get out for a walk.

I head to Albert park. I didn’t realise Auckland had so many hills. I mean, the place is made up of lots of volcanoes, but I thought the central city was flat. It’s only a 10 minute walk, but it’s quite the workout. I arrive rather hot and sweaty but quickly forget once I am surrounded by this little oasis in the heart of the city. I am greeted by an old, twisted, gnarly tree that oozes old time fairy tale charm. The birds are singing and the bright blue sky frames the distinctive sky tower.

At the center of the park is a water feature, the symmetry of the area is calming. And the poppies, oh, the poppies, these beautifully formed, spring time blooms are stunning. Their delicate stems gently swaying in the breeze. There is a soft hum of honey bees getting their fill of poppy pollen. Spring is dancing to nature’s orchestra in this park today.

Once I have had my fill of nature, I head back to the concrete jungle, heading to our hotel along the waterfront. But first, I have one more stop to make. On the bus ride into Auckland yesterday, I randomly googled, ‘best donuts in Auckland’. It came up with several results, including Grownup Donuts, a little hole in the wall servery, 2 doors down from our hotel, so I just have to make a stop there. They have a big selection of soft, fluffy filled puffs of deliciousness, but I go for the classics, a plain cinnamon, a dark Belgium chocolate mousse filled one and a custard filled one. With my carefully selected assortment, I go to see if Daniel is awake and ready for breakfast.

We are collected by Phil from Fine Wine and Food Tours from our hotel at 10:30am. We initially take a wrong turn which means we travel over the Auckland Harbour bridge – something neither of us have done before. It gives us some great views and I am starting to see why it is called the city of sails. There are 2 harbours, lots of bays, inlets and plenty of access to water. We also get some great views of Rangitoto.

Today we are doing a private wine tour of the Kumeu region. Phil explains that this area was where a lot of Croatian immigrants settled in the early 20th century and began making wine here. It’s not far from the city, but as soon as we leave the motorway, we are in instant countyside. It’s very pretty here, lots of green rolling hills and trees. There has been quite a bit of development in this area, but it still feels rural.

Out first stop is West Brook Winery. I love the settings at vineyards. They are always so idyllic with their rows of planted grapes and elegant olive trees and this vineyard meets my expectations. We are seated inside and brought 5 wines to taste. We spend some time chatting with Phil and getting to know each other. We will be doing another tour with Phil tomorrow too. While tasting the wines, a little skink pops out from behind a pot plant on the window ledge.

After Daniel has made some purchases, we head to our next stop, Hellertau Brewery. It was meant to be Soljans Estate Winery, but as we will be visiting there tomorrow, Phil changed the itinerary for us so we didn’t go to the same place twice. This venue is mostly outdoor seating and would be an amazing place to spend an afternoon in the summer, it has a really great vibe. For lunch I choose gnocchi which is sensational. This is washed down with a cinnamon and yuzu non alcoholic wine. It’s quite an interesting flavour, the cinnamon is strong but it’s a delicious drink.

Our next stop is The Hunting Lodge. It’s a popular spot, a great place for family and friends to enjoy a glass of wine and soak in some sunshine. We try another 5 wines at this vineyard. They only have 2 wines here that are made from grapes grown on site. It does seem quite common for the vineyards here to have a small block of vines and then vines in other parts of the country like Hawkes Bay, Marlborough and Otago. Their home block wines are a chardonnay and a sav aged in oak. After our samplings, Daniel makes another purchase.

Our last vineyard of the day is Coopers Creek Winery. I think this is my favorite winery of the day. The owner is chatty and friendly, sharing stories of their wine and it’s history. I love boutique places that are family owned. They have a personalized rustic charm and passion that larger places struggle to match. I should note that all of the wineries we visited were relatively small, family wineries, I just particularly enjoyed our visit to Coopers Creek. They have a huge range of wines, their menu list is extensive. We got to try 10, all of which were very drinkable. Daniel makes yet another purchase. Perhaps I should start buying shares in NZ wine!

Before heading home, Phil offers to take us out to Muriwai Beach, a black sand beach that is home to a colony of nesting gannets. We stop on the hillside to look down on the beach. It’s a breathtaking view. I love our beaches, they are not your picture perfect, golden sandy beaches (although there are some of these) they are wild and untouched and leave you with a sense of awe as you witness the power of nature. It’s a beautiful coastline.

We arrive back at our hotel, ready for a nap after a day of wine. It’s a quiet dinner tonight at a place called Mezze Bar which serve tapas. I had my fill of wine today so dinner was wonderfully simple, a lemonade and a Spanish omelette, a perfect ending to the day.

Cromwell Delights

After the madness of Christmas passed (although I do love the Christmas madness) I packed my bags and headed down South on Boxing Day to spend some time with my brother and his family.

They were visiting his in-laws who are based in Cromwell. When I was invited to stay with them, I needed no convincing, Central Otago is one of my favourite parts of the country. And getting to spend a week with my nephew and niece was certainly a big draw card.

It was a rather bumpy flight in with the plane rolling from side to side, the Queenstown basin is known for its strong winds. I’m not a great flier so my hands were tightly gripping the arm rests while I focused on controlling my breathing. I had an aisle seat so I couldn’t even distract myself with a scenic view. But soon after landing I am picked up from the airport and presented with a container of fresh cherries. I quickly forget all about the bumpy flight in. I am so looking forward to gorging on Central Otago stone fruit this week.

What I love most about this place is the landscape. It’s so dramatic. Black jagged rock faces, dry, grassy tussocks land and jewel coloured lakes. It’s very distinctive and striking.

I have 6 days to explore the area. Plenty of time to relax and unwind and get a taste for Central Otago life. Here are some of the things we got up to during my stay.

A walk around the lake. Cromwell is nestled in below Lake Dunstan and bordered by the Clutha River. There are plenty of scenic walks you can take around the lake. One afternoon we sat in the shade of a tree on the shore of the Clutha River watching ducks and enjoying the slower pace of life that you get when you leave the city. Another day we ambled along the shore of Lake Dunstan and I learnt how to skip stones along the flat still water. There is something very soothing about being near water. In Cromwell, there are plenty of opportunities to enjoy it’s tranquility.

Wine Tasting. Your Central Otago trip wouldn’t be complete without a little (or a lot) of wine. I read somewhere that there are 25 wineries in Cromwell alone, so there are plenty of options. We went to Misha’s Vineyeard and Wooing Tree. These 2 make up part of the 4 Barrels Walking Wine Tour along with Scott Base and Aurum Wines. As the name suggests, you can visit them all by foot, with the total loop taking about 90 minutes plus stops. Sit in the sun or in the shade of a tree, and sip the Pinot Noir that makes Central Otago world famous. (There are also lots of other varieties to try. My favourite is always the dessert wines.) It’s a pleasant way to spend an afternoon and if you finish at Misha’s Vineyard, head on over to The Stoker Room next door for dinner.

Dining. Another stop you must make in Cromwell is to The Stoker Room. Their food is steamed, baked, grilled and smoked in French Oak Pinot Noir barrel cookers and the results are exquisite. I’m not really a fan of smoked foods, but this was delicious. Their meals are heavily meat based, but there were still several vegetarian options and my brother and I enjoyed sharing several small plates. It is also home to Wild Earth Wines and I was given strict instructions from my husband to make sure I ordered several bottles to be shipped back home. Their Chelsea Riesling is amazing. I am looking forward to that order arriving next week!

Fruit Picking. If you are here during the summer, there are endless amounts of sweet, delicious stone fruit at your finger tips. Head to one of the many local orchards and go fruit picking. We went to Cheeki Cherries where we were able to pick, big, juicy, scrumptious cherries. I was heading home that day with only carry on luggage so I had to be restrained, but so good to take a little bit of Central Otago home with me. A week later and I have nearly finished the 2kg box I brought back! Cheeki Cherries also have PYO apricots, nectarines and peaches. You could just go to a store and buy some, but where’s the fun in that? And besides, how lovely is it to walk through an orchard on a beautiful summer’s day?

These next 3 activities are in Wanaka, but it’s only a 40 minute drive so you can easily do a day trip. When we headed out there, the Rhythm and Alps festival was on and traffic was manic, so we didn’t go right into the township to the lake, but on a different day, it’s well worth the visit. I was in Wanaka last year though, you can read about that in this post Chillin’ in Wanaka.

National Transport & Toy Museum. Take a walk down memory lane, looking at old toys from times gone by. There were certainly some I remember from my childhood. There is also a collection of cars, service vehicles, planes, bikes and motorbikes. It’s an unusual place. An eclectic collection of things. Yes it has toys and yes it has a variety of transport vehicles, but you will also find old cellphones, computers, sewing machines and an entire wall of antique teaspoons. Lets just say, it’s an interesting place. My favourite were the vintage fire trucks.

Puzzling World. A place filled with illusions and mind tricks. One of the spaces, the tilted house, really messed with my mind. With no windows and clever use of slopes and lines, it leaves your mind very confused. It threw me off balance so much that it made me feel sick. The room of following faces was interesting though, step into the room & watch 168 pairs of eyes follow you around, left and right, up and down. Puzzling World wasn’t for me, although I am sure there are people out there who would love it.

Wanaka Lavender Farm. Immerse yourself in a sea of vibrant purple lavender while listening to the gentle hum of the hard working honey bees. The fragrance of the flowers, along with the sights and sounds are a delight for the senses. There are also a variety of farm animals you can visit while strolling the grounds. Back at the shop, try a lavender ice cream. They had 3 different flavours, I tried the traditional lavender, honey combo. It was unusual, but in a good way. An unfamiliar flavour, but refreshing and moreish.

My 6 days in Cromwell were an absolute delight, the perfect mix of rest, relaxation and exploring. What a wonderful way to end 2021.

Cycling the Martinborough Vineyards Part 1

I love Martinborough. My cousins grew up here and I have so many wonderful memories of weekends and school holidays spent on the farm. There was always an adventure to be had and this place will always hold a special place in my heart.

Martinborough has changed quite a bit since my childhood days. It’s still a rural country town but it is now also a hot spot for Wellintonians who can just pop over the hill for a weekend escape. With it’s boutique shops, gourmet food and fresh country air, an indulgent weekend weekend away is easy to achieve.

Oh, and they also (according to my husband) make some of the best pinot noir in the country. So while great food and the outdoors is on the agenda, we are here for a weekend of wine.

Martinborough is in the south of the Wairarapa, about an hours drive from Wellington. Or you can take the train which connects with a bus in Featherston. It’s an easy day trip, but if you have the time, I highly recommend coming for a weekend.

It’s a wet dreary day in Wellington, but in less than an hour, we are heading into indigo sky and green pastures. I have booked us a villa at Margrain Vineyard. We have stayed here a couple of times before. The first time, Daniel surprised me with a weekend trip away….

He booked the Pinot Suite. The place was huge! But all I really remember was eating our $20 fish and chips at the 12 seater burl wood table. We decide that next time it would make more sense to book a cheaper room and have more money for spending on wine.

So that’s what we did. I now do all the travel planning and I am much less extravagant. (Although I write this now, smiling to myself, thinking about a post I will be publishing in a couple of weeks time!)

We stay in one of their villas. The place reminds me a bit of Noddy’s town with it’s brown and blue villas with chapel like towers on each of the rooms. It is certainly a distinct looking place. Our room is light, spacious and has a small balcony overlooking green fields. It is very comfortable and perfect for our weekend getaway.

The room rate also includes a daily continential breakfast as well as a selection of teas, coffee and hot chocolate. They have also placed a selection of their wines in our room.

The Pinot Noir is opened straight away!

With a glass of pinot in hand and a map, I settle in to plan out our wine tasting route for tomorrow. You can download the map, pick one up from the information center, or, in our case, there was one in the room. There are over 20 vineyards and it’s a hard choice. Reading through the little blurbs, they all sound great. Some are only open by appointment or in the summer, so that rules out a few, but I still have a good selection to choose from. I figure if we have a decent lunch, I can probably manage about 4 – 5 places before I can no long ride a bike in a straight line.

To be continued.

Wine tasting in Queenstown

What do Burgundy, Oregon and Otago have in common?

They all make outstanding Pinot Noir.

So when in Queenstown, no trip is complete with out visiting the vineyards and sampling some of the delicious wines produced in the area.

We are booked onto ‘The Wine Trail Tour’ with Queenstown Winery Tours. We are picked up from our hotel by our fun and knowledgeable host, Susana. There are 7 of us on this tour, plus Susana, and within minutes we are all chatting away like old friends.

Our first stop is not to a vineyard. Susana take us to Lake Hayes. A beautiful, picturesque lake just outside Queenstown’s center. While taking in the scenery (and Daniel is photographing ducks) we play a little game to help prepare us for what lies ahead.

You may recall in a previous post, I smelt a range of wine fragrances then tried to match them to their scent without much luck. You can read that post here. Even with my previous experience, the results were no different. I wont be giving up my day job!

We smelt many fragrances, from sweet smelling strawberry to pineapple to lychee to some less expected ones like mushroom and peat. We were also educated in the art of wine tasting (it is very technical) so we could all at least pretend that we knew what we are doing.

Sorted.

Our first vineyard is Akarua. With a beautiful outdoor dining area, set amongst mature trees, it is not only the perfect place to taste some wine, but also to enjoy an exquisite meal.

I love travel shows and on a Canadian travel vlog, I heard about something called ‘ice wine’. A dessert wine that has been made with grapes that have frozen on the vine.

I have wanted to try it ever since.

My lucky day – I was informed that Akarua is the only place in New Zealand that produces it. (The grapes are artificially frozen as they don’t get enough consecutive freezing cold days to produce it naturally) Deliciously sweet and sticky, needless to say a bottle of this came home with us.

After our wine tastings we delved into a scrumptious shared lunch which provided a great opportunity to chat with our fellow wine tasting tour buddies and get to know them more.

The food was amazing, as was the company.

We then headed to Chard Farm by way of a narrow winding road next to a very steep drop. (I feel like our 4 wheel drive trip to Skippers Canyon the day before prepared us well for this!) The scenery at Chard Farm is gorgeous!

Chard Farm produce another of my favourite wines, Gewurztraminer. It was not on the tasting list that day, so I purchased a bottle. I am still yet to try it.

Moving onto Gibbston Valley we go on a short tour around the vines, learning about the wine making process. We then head into their wine cave (The largest in New Zealand) for our wine tasting experience.

Our last stop for the day is Wet Jacket located in a beautifully done up wool shed. The wines we tasted were all exquisite. We tasted 6. I was about to suggest to Daniel that we buy one of each when he spotted another wine, not available for tasting, called ‘The Pirate’. An exclusive Pinot Noir in a leather bound bottle complete with a map of Dusky Sounds (Where Wet Jacket Arm is).

Instead of 6 bottles of wine, we walked away with The Pirate, number 893 of 929.

We purchased this on our 10 year wedding anniversary, I think we will be saving this for our 20th anniversary. (Or another level 4 lock down)

Wine tasting with Frankly Tours

We wake in Waipataki and walk a few minutes down to the beach. A small golden sandy bay, enclosed by rugged looking hills, a world away from the city. The waves are big and the tides are strong. I wouldn’t recommend swimming here unless you are a confident swimmer. I’m not, but can manage a paddle in the surprisingly warm water. The morning colours are starting to appear through the clouds. This beautiful little place is still and peaceful.

I wish I could stay longer. However, our wine tasting tour is calling.

Hawake’s Bay is the oldest wine region in New Zealand and the second largest. Today, we are joining Frankly Tours  to help guide us in our wine tasting experience.

At first I was disappointed to learn that the owner, Frank, would not be our tour guide. Frank has many excellent reviews! I need not have worried though, Mark was an excellent host. Friendly and knowledgeable, we were in great hands.

We visit 4 quite different vineyards, the first being the oh so grand and elegant Mission Estate. (Mission estate is another winery that holds concerts amongst the vines.)

Established in 1851, it is New Zealand’s oldest winery. The building exudes elegance. A grandiose colonial styled building with a tree lined driveway, central water fountain and a foliage engulfed porch to welcome you in.

We try 6 wines here while a Mission Estate host shares his knowledge of wine making with us. I learn that pinot grapes grow really well in Otago but not in Hawkes Bay. This is because the pinot grapes have very thin skin and cannot manage with the heat Hawkes bay gets. I also learn that Shiraz and Syrah are made from the same type of grapes.

We then move onto Moana Park, a small boutique winery producing 100% plant based wines. We wine taste, alfresco style, under walnut trees, while snacking on fresh bread, olive oil and homemade dukkah. My favourite wine was from here. A 2019 sauvignon blanc. I’m not normally a fan of sauvignon, but this one was delicious. I wish I had bought more than just one bottle. Small places like this can sell out fast. My advise – if you like it, buy it. You might not get another chance!

After a scenic drive through the country side, we arrive at Oak Estate Wines It is run by and Austrian couple and their wines have a European taste to them. The land in this area was no good for growing crops or raising stock, but it was discovered to be the perfect place for growing grape vines. A platter of delectable treats was included with this wine tasting. The burnt butter mousse was outstanding.

Back into the van and onto the next place. I am quite please we are such a small tour group today (just the 4 of us and our driver Mark) it means there is lots of room on the back seats for our quickly growing collection of wines!

We arrive at Unison Vineyard, our 4th stop and by now I am struggling to walk in a straight line. I have tasted so many wines! We are each asked what type of wines we like and our host tailors the tastings for each of us. We are told a bit about the technicalities of corking wine, but to be honest, I am far too happy to take any of it in.

I leave Unison Vineyard with a few more bottles of wine feeling very merry. We have one last stop – Roosters Brewery . I am not a fan of beer, so opt to have a cider instead. Daniel gets the beer tasting paddle. I am not sure how he managed it, they were very generous servings. Paired with some hot chips; it was a great way to finish off the tour.

Hawkes Bay produces some excellent wines. With Frankly Tours we were able to sample a huge range of wines in a fun and hassle free manor. If you’re in the area, I highly recommend Frankly Tours, it was the perfect way to spend the afternoon. To end the day, Daniel and I decide to head back to Mission Estate for dinner.

We have an early start the next morning. I’m talking on the road by 6am early. My lovely husband forgot that he had someone coming over to our house in the morning to interview him about his turbo motorbike!!

The advantage to this early morning car ride home is that it’s much cooler and I get to see a sunrise – even if it is from the car window.

Beautiful!