Tag: Sunrise

A Weekend in Akaroa

On By exploringthelongwhitecloudIn Canterbury, South Island1 Comment

It started with a birthday wish. Daniel’s grandma was celebrating her 80th birthday and wanted to do a nature cruise in Akaroa. In the weeks leading up to it, we weren’t sure it would go ahead. Omicron had raised its ugly head and case numbers were skyrocketing. But we made it there, and I have to say, it was a pretty amazing trip.

We arrive in Christchurch and while Daniel’s parents are sorting out the rental car, Daniel, his sister and I take a seat nearby. We are chatting but then Daniel hears the word ‘upgrade’ come from the rental car guy and he is off, planting himself right between his parents ready to start negotiating the upgrade and get a ‘fancier car’. A few $$$ later and a hilarious incident of window wipers going flat out instead of the indicator (a European car where the levers are opposite to what we are used to) we are on the road making our way to what I hope will be sunny Akaroa.

I didn’t know a lot about Akaroa other than this; it is located in the South Island of Aotearoa, and a bit over an hour’s drive from Christchurch. Oh, and it was settled by the French and the street names are all in le français. Fortunately, this is an English speaking area (like the rest of New Zealand) as the extent of my French is Bonjour.

I have been there once before, about 9 years ago when Daniel and I spent 3 weeks exploring the South Island on our motorbike. But we only spent about an hour there so I was really looking forward to getting to know this place better.

It’s a rather winding road that goes up and over a hill to get there, but we finally get our first glimpse of Akaroa and it is beautiful. Made even better by the fact that it is basking in sunshine.

We arrive and head straight out to lunch, making our way to The Brasserie Kitchen & Wine Bar which has a lovely outdoor setting. I order the most French thing I can find on the menu, a crepe filled with cheese and roasted vegetables then followed by a macaron. They were both outstanding, one of the nicest macaron’s I have ever had and an excellent start to the trip. I am now wondering why I never went back to buy more macarons. A tip for next time.

Lunch is followed by a stroll along the promenade, stopping to browse in shops and take in the lovely sea views. The ocean is such a gorgeous colour. We head further round the bay to check out the lighthouse and then up a few steps to the Akaroa Lookout Point. It is probably the lowest lookout I have ever been to. Honestly, it was only about 10 steps up, but still a nice view point. The walk through the forest is noticeably cool, so nice in the midday heat. The cicadas are singing their happy tunes.

After checking in at our accommodation, we head over to the Beer Garden at the Madeira Hotel to enjoy the last of the afternoon sun, share stories over drinks and snacks and wait for the birthday girl and rest of the family to arrive. It’s a very relaxed afternoon and evening with lots of laughs.

One of my goals for the year is to watch some sunrises. I decide that Akaroa is the first place I am going to try this. It is on the east coast, but surrounded by hills. I know I won’t get to see the sun come up over the horizon, but I still think it will be worth watching.

Daniel enjoyed a lot of beverages the night before, so, being the good wife that I am, I leave him sleeping and head out about 6:30am. There is a wharf nearby so I walk along that and take a seat at the end to enjoy the show. It is so still and no one is around. It is quiet and peaceful. No car engines, no boat engines, just stillness. It’s a sleepy town and I get to watch it wake up. The sky is blushed with pink and gold tones. This moment is beautiful. It feels like a secret gift, just for me.

After about an hour of watching Akaroa come to life, I am called to breakfast by my rather loud rumbling tummy. It leads me to Rona’s cafe, where I find an almond croissant to eat at the waterfront. Gosh, I love having pastries for breakfast. It’s certainly not an everyday breakfast food (unless you are in Europe, then the rule doesn’t apply!) but it’s a lovely holiday treat.

The rest of the morning is slow and leisurely and at lunchtime we head down to the wharf for the main event of the weekend. A nature cruise with Akaroa Dolphins. I was delighted to discover that this is the company that has a 4 legged crew member. Albie the Spaniel was on board greeting all the guests as they arrived. Already kitted out in his life jacket, Albie is ready to spot some dolphins. Apparently dogs can hear dolphins talking to each other so Albie will be able to let guests know when they are near.

We head out into the harbour and our skipper shares some of the history of the area. It was here I learn that Akaroa was actually settled by the French and the English and that half the street names are French and half are English. We also learnt that Akaroa used to be a volcano that erupted millions of years ago. The eruption was so big that it created the harbour and a channel out to the Pacific Ocean. If you look at a terrain or satellite image of Akaroa, you can quite clearly see the mountain range forming a ring where the volcano would have been. We also learn about some of the Maori history of the area. It is super interesting. The captain is knowledgeable for sure, but also delivered it in an interesting and entertaining way.

It doesn’t take long before we spot our first dolphin. Their round, black ‘mickey mouse’ fin is very distinctive and their silver bodies flash in the water when near the surface. Hector’s dolphins are the smallest and rarest dolphin in the world. They grow to only 1.5 meters in length and are normally found in pods of 2-5. Our first sighting is a single dolphin that comes right up to the boat. It swims all around the boat giving spectators from all sides a great view. It hangs around for a while so the captain starts moving the boat going forward to see if it wants to play. It does! It zooms through the water at the bow at incredible speed, it has no issues keeping up with the boat. We watch it, darting along, popping up through the water and back under.

One of the crew then comes around offering complimentary drinks, including wine and beer. Ah, yes please, I will have a wine!

We carry on further, wine in hand, checking out the coastline and looking for more dolphins. It doesn’t take long before we find our next pod, and another, and another. There were so many dolphins, flashes of black and silver in every direction, putting on a spectacular show. I almost didn’t know where to look.

Some were in the distance jumping out of the water, some swimming at the boat in groups from different directions and others swimming alongside the boat. It was incredible. We stay with the dolphins for quite some time, totally in awe at the experience. It is such a privilege to not only see them, but to encounter so many.

After we have all had our dolphin fix, we head out further to see more dramatic coastline, a seal colony and head out to the Pacific Ocean. It gets pretty wild, the boat going up, up and then crashing down in the swells, it’s like an amusement ride at a theme park and I am loving it. If you are not great out at sea, this bit didn’t last very long at all. Some members of our group struggle with sea/motion sickness but said they were OK because it was over quickly and there was plenty of fresh air.

We then head back to the wharf buzzing. This has been an outstanding tour. I have loved every minute of it and cannot recommend it enough. Hector’s dolphins are beautiful creatures, fun and playful. This is an experience not to be missed.

The afternoon is spent with more drinks in the sun, enjoying the company of family. We then have pre dinner drinks followed by dinner at Ma Maison. It has beautiful views out across the harbour and the perfect setting for a birthday celebration dinner. Unfortunately our meals do take an incredibly long time to come out. They were quite understaffed, as were most of the places we visited on this trip. I believe this is an area that would normally rely on filling vacancies with backpackers and visitors who are working and exploring their way around our great country. Covid has certainly had an impact there.

But, despite the long wait, the food was really good, and the staff really friendly. It was certainly a place I would be happy to visit again.

Our last day in Akaroa starts with another treat from Rona’s cafe, eaten down on the waterfront. On the drive back to Christchurch, we stop at The Hilltop Tavern which has spectacular views out over Akaroa and the surrounding bays. It’s a perfect way to end the trip, looking out across the place we have spent the weekend exploring.

Doubtful Sound Tour – Day 3

On By exploringthelongwhitecloudIn South Island, Southland Region2 Comments

My alarm goes off at 6:30am. I’m trying to decide if this was a good idea. I don’t think it’s raining, it’s starting to get light outside, but I don’t think I have missed the sun coming over the mountains just yet.

Yep, I’m going to do it. I get out of bed, throw on several layers of clothes, grab my camera and head out on deck to see who else has decided this is a good idea. Who knows when or if I will be here again, I want to see the day in.

The boat is still anchored, the morning is still and quiet. It is of course cold and fresh, but the lighting is simply stunning.

What a magical morning.

I stay outside for ages, a few people join me and we all wear a secret smile. Those of us who have been willing to endure the inconvenience of getting up early and face the cold have seen a perfect morning come into being. It’s a shame so many others missed out on this in favour of a warm bed and sleep in, something they can have on so many other mornings.

I watch the anchor be drawn up out of the black water. The sun is now tinting the clouds gold and the sea is mirroring the snow dusted mountains. Over the speakers, the Captain starts playing “Here comes the sun”. What a way to start the day.

I remain outside for as long as I can before heading back inside to defrost. It’s not long though before I am back out on deck. There are more people here now and we are joined by our nature guide. As we approach a small island, she points out a penguin. It’s another Fiordland Crested Penguin. I feel quite privileged to have seen 2 on this trip. I don’t have my zoom lens on me, so instead of rushing back inside to grab it, I take memory photos and enjoy the moment.

It is sitting on the rocks, just under the tree line. We get to watch it for quite some time, dipping its webbed feet into the water, looks around, sussing out the environment. With a quick graceful manoeuvre it slips into the water. I see it just below the surface of the water for a couple of seconds, then it’s gone.

Breakfast is next on the agenda. After a hot meal and a cup of tea, I have regained the feelings in my fingers. The Milford Mariner has taken us into Hall Arm this morning and we are surrounded by huge snow covered peaks. We learn that the rounded peaks would have been under the glacier. Most are rounded, very few are jagged. Looking around you get a sense of how massive the glaciers here were. Some of the rounded peaks are 1400m high!

We explore all the way up into the arm and then the Milford Marina parks up in the cove. The crew turn off the engine and the generator and we sit there in silence. Birds, waterfalls, that’s it. No other sounds. How rare and special it is to experience so much remoteness.

As the Milford Mariner slowly drifts around, the sun comes out. I can feel it on my face. Complete stillness and peacefulness, I even start to feel warm.

We begin making our way back to Deep Cover, the tour is nearly complete.On the way back, the crew raise the sails. There is barely any wind, they are just for show, but it’s still great to see. We dock and depart the vessel that has been home for the last 22 hours. The crew were amazing, so friendly, knowledgeable and went out of their way to make it a memorable experience. Despite the trip being cut short due to the weather, we still had a really rich experience. I feel like we have journeyed to the end of the earth.

Back in Te Anau, we have lunch at Sandfly Cafe. We sit outside in the sun, reflecting on the epic adventure we just had. It’s another scenic drive back to Queenstown through green pastures, snow capped mountains and vast lands of dry tussocks. We have some time before our flight, so we make a detour to Kingston. It’s a small town, right at the bottom of Lake Wakatipu. We have never been here before, but have driven past a few times. It always seems to be drenched in sunshine. We take a look at the Kingston Flyer, a vintage steam train that used to connect Kingston and Invercargill, before heading down to the lake for a short walk.

A woman is coming off the lake with her dog and paddle board. The water is so still, and there are just the sounds of nature. I quickly slip into fantasy mode dreaming about living here. What would it be like to live in this little slice of paradise with it’s relaxed lifestyle and space for our dogs to roam.

But the dreaming must come to an end, so we head to the airport to wait for our flight. Our flight is delayed, so we treat ourselves to an ice cream (and some sneaky chocolates I don’t tell Daniel about) from Patagonia Chocolates.

An overnight tour in Doubtful Sound has been plastered to my fridge on my bucket list for a number of years. It was such an incredible experience and was all I had hoped it would be. I think this tour should be on everyone’s bucket list.

Like what you read? Why not click follow and come join me on my adventures.

,

Coastal Pacific Train

On By exploringthelongwhitecloudIn Canterbury, Marlborough, South IslandLeave a comment

A train. 6 hours and 350km.

Today we are making our way from Christchurch to Blenheim on the Coastal Pacific Train.

It’s still dark when we depart Christchurch. I will be able to watch the sun come up.

We take our seats in the front carriage next to the big glass windows. I expect we will see some pretty awesome views on this journey.

The rain is glistening on the windows as we pass through residential areas, the street lights twinkling as a burnt orange horizon mixes into a deep inky blue sky. The bare winter trees silhouette against the dawn. Morning has broken.

I head down to the open carriage to get some photos (I hate taking photos through glass.) Jeepers creepers, it’s fresh out here, but so beautiful. The golden hues spilling out across the land as we pass a river that reflects the colours back.

We pass through frosty farmland, blanketed in white. The air is crisp and cold. Actually freezing. I’m the only one mad enough to be out here. Even though the cold air is numbing my face and hands, the beauty that I am seeing keeps me out here for sometime.

As I make my way back to our carriage, I pass row after row of people engrossed with their phones, their ipads and reading books. It’s so sad. They are missing the beauty right in front of them.

I take a seat and appreciate the soft pink and blue hues of the sky. We then hear an announcement over the speakers. The viewing cart is now closed due to safety reasons. The floor is very icy and slippery. I agree, it was, but I am also disappointed that I wont be able to take glass free photos and feel the wind in my face, despite how cold it was.

I settle into my seat and look out the window. There is a dusting of snow on the distant mountains. We pass through the Waipara vineyards and the rolling green hills that look like a Colin McCahon painting. The colours soft and delicate.

The hills are becoming sun kissed, slowly defrosting from the cold night. The sun is just about to peak out from behind a hill. I can see the golden rays. We come around the corner, I expect to see the sun, I have my camera ready, but instead, we are greeted by a thick blanket of fog. Mist is twisting through the bare winter trees. It’s magical, but also a little eerie. I half expect to see Harry Potter dementors coming out from the woods.

After quite some time, we exit the fog. My eyes settle on a beautiful sage green river. The surrounding landscape is rich and warm in colour. Day is here. The sun is very bright now, it is here to stay. We pass braided rivers and snow dusted mountains.

And then we get our first glimpse of the Pacific Ocean. A brilliant ocean of glorious blue, stretching as far as the eye can see. Fortunately the viewing carriage is re opened. This time, I am not the only one.

There is 100Km of coastline. It is home to lots of wildlife. Apparently sometime passengers will spot dolphins or sperm whales. I see a lot of sea birds and even some seals out on the rocks, soaking up the sun.

On one side we have the mighty Pacific Ocean. On the other, the Kaikoura Ranges, dusted in snow. Snow always makes everything look so magical. What a glorious day for travelling.

We then pass though some salt flats. I am amazed at the range of colours; bright turquoise, grey and pink tones. As we approach Marlborough the vineyards become more prominent. We finally reach our destination. Blenheim. The train actually goes right through to Picton. A lot of passengers will get off here and take the ferry across to Wellington. We are also Wellington bound, but my mum gets bad sea sickness so we have decided to enjoy a night in Blenheim and take a short flight home the next day. I love that this is also an option.

There are 3 ‘Great Journeys’ Trains in New Zealand. The Northern Explorer running between Auckland and Wellington. The TranzAlpine that connects Christchurch to Greymouth and the Coastal Pacific traveling between Christchurch and Picton. This was my first time doing any of them and I thoroughly enjoyed it. It is such a relaxing way to travel and I loved watching the changing landscape.