Watching Albatross

When we are done exploring Larnach Castle, we get back on the van and continue heading out further along the peninsula, which is home to many creatures. As it’s almost an island, it was very easy to put up a predator fence to protect its residents. Seals, sea birds, penguins and sea lions all call this place home.

We arrive at the wharf and join up with another group for this part of the tour. We board the boat and follow the coastline out to the point where the Northern Royal Albatross nest. Up on the hill I can see little white dots of fuzzy chicks in their nests.

Gliding through the air, we spot our first albatross. They are an incredible animal to witness. This is my 3rd time seeing them and it takes my breath away every time. Their wingspan is impressive and such a sight to behold. We learn that they are able to lock their wings. This enables them to glide without effort and the reason they can travel such distances. We watch one albatross for a while as it circles the boat, soars high and then glides down and across the sea.

We then head further out around the coast. We have lost the protection and shelter of the inlet and the boat begins to rock back and forth in the swell. We spot some seals on the rocks. They are hard to see as they blend in so well, but there is a pup with white marking on its face that makes it stand out. It’s very small and we watch as it navigates the rocks. Above, a lighthouse sits perched on the hill, very picturesque.

As we travel even further out, we see several more albatross of different species. There must be some fish or krill as they are all gathered in one place. They are majestic birds – the way they glide through the air, it’s so calming. It’s really special to see them up close. We get some great sightings. It’s hard to get photos as the boat is bobbing up and down so much, but I manage to snap a couple.

When we return to the hotel, we spend some time defrosting with the heater on and a hot cup of tea. But dinner is calling so we brave the cold and head out to Biggies Pizza. Thursday to Saturdays it’s a nightclub from 10pm, a place that is very popular with the students. But we are here on a Sunday evening, when the town is quiet and sleepy. We almost have the place to ourselves. The restaurant is deliciously warm with a roaring fire and playing a ‘best of the 80s playlist’. The perfect setting to enjoy a delicious pizza.

Stepping back in time at Larnach Castle

It’s beautiful today, the rain has cleared, the sun is out and the air is still – perfect for our tour. We are collected from our hotel by Monarch Wildlife Cruises & Tours. Rob is our guide for the day. We will be heading out to the peninsula to explore Larnach Castle followed by a nature cruise to spot albatross and seals. It’s a private tour for us this morning – we are the only ones booked.

Our journey to the castle begins with a drive over the hills on the peninsula, with some impressive views of the inlet. Sunlight is catching the water and reflecting, making it look like a mirror. It’s such a perfectly still day. Rob has a wealth of knowledge of the area, which he happily shares with us on the drive.

We head down a long driveway surrounded by tall trees – I can’t wait to see the castle, it is the only one we have in New Zealand. Rob stops briefly to point out the old gates which were made from a whale’s jaw bone. I know whales are big, but when you see things like this, it really puts it into perspective!

Finally the forest driveway ends and there it is, standing in all its grandeur. What a sight.

Larnach Castle was built for William Larnach in the latter half of the 19th century and took 12 years to complete. The family and workers lived in tents on the land but after 4 years, they had had enough of tent life and moved in while it was still being built. It was never known as Larnach’s Castle to the family, but always referred to as ‘The Camp’.

We walk up the stairs, marveling at the impressive stone work. A pair of lions and an eagle statue guard the steep steps to the entrance.

We begin on the porch, a large, gloriously sunny room that has been closed in with windows. I would love to find a spot here to curl up in and read a book. Rob guides us through the castle, room by room, sharing stories and history of the castle, its furniture and residents.

While on the tour we visit the dining room, ladies parlor, bedrooms, breakfast room and more. Each room has its own stories to tell. There is so much detail everywhere, from the wooden carvings, to the chandeliers and tiled floors, not to mention all the beautiful furniture.

In one room, there is a photo of the Larnach family. Rob tells us about the dark history of Williams’ rise and fall, his 3 wives and his suicide. It’s a sad and tragic story. He was a hard worker and contributed a lot to the early development of Dunedin.

In the final part of our guided tour, we climb the steep and narrow spiral staircase up to the balcony of the turret and are rewarded with spectacular 360 degree views. We can see Dunedin City, right out across the peninsula. It’s breathtaking. After marveling at the views, we are given free time to wander around the gardens and explore on our own.

Today, the castle is owned by the Barker Family, who purchased the property in 1967. It was in a terrible state and the family have worked tirelessly to bring it back to its former glory. This includes purchasing back original pieces of furniture when they can. Larnach Castle is a fascinating place to explore.