Hanging out with Taxidermy and Old Bones.

On August 17, 2023August 16, 2023 By exploringthelongwhitecloudIn OtagoLeave a comment

It’s our last day in Dunedin. In 2 days we have managed to see and do a lot, but I still have activities on my list before we board a plane to head home. It’s a very cool, fresh morning, but I can’t complain. The sun is out and it’s a perfect day for exploring the city.

We have breakfast at the hotel (Leviathan Heritage Hotel). The dining room is stunning. Beautiful moldings and sculptures decorate the ceilings and there is a large fireplace for warmth and atmosphere. We are the only ones in this large room. It feel like such a wasted space. It would have been a grand room in its days. The hotel was built in 1884. With its elegant, dark wooden interior and many stained glass windows, you can just imagine the balls and stories from the past that this hotel has seen. The hotel doesn’t look much from the outside, it was modernised in the 1950’s by previous owners which is such a shame, but inside you will find a beautiful old building.

We head out to The Octagon and begin a heritage walk around the city to look at all the old architecture. There are some beautiful buildings here. Using the heritage walk map we picked up from the information center, we begin at St. Paul’s Cathedral.

Looking around me, I feel like I am back in Europe. What a stunning building! A grand staircase leads up to the entrance. Tall, white pillars tower up to grand domes and arches, a beautiful example of Gothic architecture. Inside the beauty continues, it is equally impressive with high ceilings and many stained glass windows. There is something very peaceful in the vastness of the high ceilings and open space. I particularly like the window that pays homage to the landscape and nature that is distinct to Dunedin – fur seals, albatross & māhutonga star constellation to name a few.

I carry on my walk, stopping to look at various buildings; churches, hotels, banks. Dunedin was quite a wealthy city back in its gold mining days and these old buildings give a glimpse into that history.

Dunedin also has an art walk trail that goes around the city. Before heading out for my heritage walk, I marked some of them down on the map so I could check them out as I go. My favourite is the bright yellow mural with the rain cloud over the clock. I think it’s the sunny yellow I am drawn to.

I then head to Tūhura, the Otago Museum. I hadn’t planned to go here, but I have some free time. It is well worth the visit. There is a planetarium which I have heard is excellent and a tropical indoor forest with butterflies. Unfortunately I only have 30 minutes and you need to pay for these exhibits, so I decide to give them a miss. Next time I will check it out, it sounds amazing!

I instead spend my time wandering around the free exhibitions, pacific history, maritime and nature. The nature section has a full skeleton of a juvenile fin whale. Its size has quite the impact on me. I know whales are large, but their actual size is hard to comprehend. I start at its fluke and walk. Past the tail vertebrae, the fins and then finally, after what seems like quite some time, I reach its head. I try to imagine what it would be like to be in the water next to a creature of this size – and this one is only a baby. It really puts things into perspective.

I also really enjoy the exhibit of birds, in particular, the moa collection. Moa are extinct, flightless birds that were native to Aotearoa. They came in various sizes, some very large. Again, I knew they could be big, but when you see them up close, the scale is overwhelming. Coming face to face with a bird like this would be scary. I also loved seeing the taxidermy huia, another of our beautiful, flightless, native birds that is sadly extinct. I hadn’t intended to spend so much time among old bones and taxidermy, but found this section really interesting.

I meet back up with Mum for the next stop – Lan Yuan Dunedin Chinese Garden. Our guide yesterday told us that Dunedin’s sister city is Shanghai. This particular garden was designed and made in Shanghai then shipped to Dunedin. The garden is in the city, but it’s a very peaceful place and inside its walls you feel a world away from the hustle and bustle of city life. The running water over the rocks is soothing and I love the autumn colours of the tree leaves. It’s designed in a way that you don’t see everything at once, I like this. It helps you to focus on the beauty right in front of you. We take our time wandering around, soaking up the tranquility.

Our final stop is the Distinction hotel, we are ending our holiday with their high tea. After a fast paced couple of days it is nice to slow down. Over a hot cup of tea and some delicious little treats, we reflect on our time in Dunedin.

Mum asks what my favourite thing has been. It’s hard to decide. As I reflect, I realise that it’s not a particular activity, but moments. You know those moments that only last a second or 2, but in that time, the world seems to stop. You are so caught up in those few seconds, so captivated by a sight or a feeling. On this trip, there were many of those; a very moving scene in Romeo & Juliet, looking up the grand entrance steps, past the lion statues, up to Larnach Castle. The stunning views over Otago Peninsula. Watching albatross effortlessly glide through the air with their massive wingspan. The warmth of a roaring fire with a pizza for dinner and being awestruck at the mighty size of a juvenile fin whale. Our world is full of marvelous, incredible, awe inspiring things that can so easily be missed. I love that I am able to be captivated by the beauty in the simple.

Watching Albatross

On July 27, 2023July 25, 2023 By exploringthelongwhitecloudIn Otago1 Comment

When we are done exploring Larnach Castle, we get back on the van and continue heading out further along the peninsula, which is home to many creatures. As it’s almost an island, it was very easy to put up a predator fence to protect its residents. Seals, sea birds, penguins and sea lions all call this place home.

We arrive at the wharf and join up with another group for this part of the tour. We board the boat and follow the coastline out to the point where the Northern Royal Albatross nest. Up on the hill I can see little white dots of fuzzy chicks in their nests.

Gliding through the air, we spot our first albatross. They are an incredible animal to witness. This is my 3rd time seeing them and it takes my breath away every time. Their wingspan is impressive and such a sight to behold. We learn that they are able to lock their wings. This enables them to glide without effort and the reason they can travel such distances. We watch one albatross for a while as it circles the boat, soars high and then glides down and across the sea.

We then head further out around the coast. We have lost the protection and shelter of the inlet and the boat begins to rock back and forth in the swell. We spot some seals on the rocks. They are hard to see as they blend in so well, but there is a pup with white marking on its face that makes it stand out. It’s very small and we watch as it navigates the rocks. Above, a lighthouse sits perched on the hill, very picturesque.

As we travel even further out, we see several more albatross of different species. There must be some fish or krill as they are all gathered in one place. They are majestic birds – the way they glide through the air, it’s so calming. It’s really special to see them up close. We get some great sightings. It’s hard to get photos as the boat is bobbing up and down so much, but I manage to snap a couple.

When we return to the hotel, we spend some time defrosting with the heater on and a hot cup of tea. But dinner is calling so we brave the cold and head out to Biggies Pizza. Thursday to Saturdays it’s a nightclub from 10pm, a place that is very popular with the students. But we are here on a Sunday evening, when the town is quiet and sleepy. We almost have the place to ourselves. The restaurant is deliciously warm with a roaring fire and playing a ‘best of the 80s playlist’. The perfect setting to enjoy a delicious pizza.

Stepping back in time at Larnach Castle

On July 20, 2023July 17, 2023 By exploringthelongwhitecloudIn Otago, South IslandLeave a comment

It’s beautiful today, the rain has cleared, the sun is out and the air is still – perfect for our tour. We are collected from our hotel by Monarch Wildlife Cruises & Tours. Rob is our guide for the day. We will be heading out to the peninsula to explore Larnach Castle followed by a nature cruise to spot albatross and seals. It’s a private tour for us this morning – we are the only ones booked.

Our journey to the castle begins with a drive over the hills on the peninsula, with some impressive views of the inlet. Sunlight is catching the water and reflecting, making it look like a mirror. It’s such a perfectly still day. Rob has a wealth of knowledge of the area, which he happily shares with us on the drive.

We head down a long driveway surrounded by tall trees – I can’t wait to see the castle, it is the only one we have in New Zealand. Rob stops briefly to point out the old gates which were made from a whale’s jaw bone. I know whales are big, but when you see things like this, it really puts it into perspective!

Finally the forest driveway ends and there it is, standing in all its grandeur. What a sight.

Larnach Castle was built for William Larnach in the latter half of the 19th century and took 12 years to complete. The family and workers lived in tents on the land but after 4 years, they had had enough of tent life and moved in while it was still being built. It was never known as Larnach’s Castle to the family, but always referred to as ‘The Camp’.

We walk up the stairs, marveling at the impressive stone work. A pair of lions and an eagle statue guard the steep steps to the entrance.

We begin on the porch, a large, gloriously sunny room that has been closed in with windows. I would love to find a spot here to curl up in and read a book. Rob guides us through the castle, room by room, sharing stories and history of the castle, its furniture and residents.

While on the tour we visit the dining room, ladies parlor, bedrooms, breakfast room and more. Each room has its own stories to tell. There is so much detail everywhere, from the wooden carvings, to the chandeliers and tiled floors, not to mention all the beautiful furniture.

In one room, there is a photo of the Larnach family. Rob tells us about the dark history of Williams’ rise and fall, his 3 wives and his suicide. It’s a sad and tragic story. He was a hard worker and contributed a lot to the early development of Dunedin.

In the final part of our guided tour, we climb the steep and narrow spiral staircase up to the balcony of the turret and are rewarded with spectacular 360 degree views. We can see Dunedin City, right out across the peninsula. It’s breathtaking. After marveling at the views, we are given free time to wander around the gardens and explore on our own.

Today, the castle is owned by the Barker Family, who purchased the property in 1967. It was in a terrible state and the family have worked tirelessly to bring it back to its former glory. This includes purchasing back original pieces of furniture when they can. Larnach Castle is a fascinating place to explore.

Exploring Dunedin

On July 13, 2023July 12, 2023 By exploringthelongwhitecloudIn Otago, South IslandLeave a comment

It’s an unusually still day for Wellington, raining, but still. I have been day dreaming lately about moving away from Wellington, somewhere warmer, sunnier, like Nelson perhaps. But even on wet days like today, when there is stillness, it’s a beautiful place to live.

Once we take our seat on the plane, I go straight for the in-flight magazine, Kia Ora. It’s one of my favourites and I have been looking forward to an uninterrupted hour with it. It doesn’t disappoint. I am so engrossed in the articles that I hardly even look out the window. There is one on Fiji which gets me very excited for my upcoming trip and another one on Japan, a place that is moving higher up on my bucket list.

It’s a pretty smooth flight and when we land, I have only made my way through half of the magazine, the rest will be a good read for the flight home. We disembark the aircraft and walk across the tarmac to the terminal. There is a bit of rain in the air, but it’s not too cold. Mum and I catch a shuttle to the city, drop our bags off at the hotel and set out to explore.

We are in Dunedin. The last time I was here was 20 years ago! I am excited to not only explore the city centre, but also the peninsula. Our first stop is the old historic railway station. I have been looking forward to seeing some of the old buildings. Dunedin has strong Scottish heritage and some well preserved Edwardian architecture. Unfortunately, half the station is behind scaffolding, but I can still enjoy the beautifully manicured gardens out front and some of the architecture. It’s a magnificent building.

We are there on market day so we take the opportunity to wander around the farmer’s stalls. There is fresh produce, like fruit and vegetables, but at least half of the stalls are selling artisan breads, pastries, chutneys and even gin. There is a delectable selection of goods.

We then wander up towards The Octagon. Otago University Graduation is on. The students are walking in a parade and family and friends have gathered to celebrate this milestone. We then carry on with our walk, consulting a map every now and again, arriving at our next destination, Ocho.

Ocho is a local artisan chocolate company and we are booked on one of their tours. As we step inside, we are greeted with a warm, comforting smell of chocolate, very different to the overly sweet, sickly smell of Cadbury (a tour I did when I was here last). The chocolate smell at Ocho is refined, it draws you in, inviting you to taste its delights. We are a little early so we wander around the shop and have a chat with the staff. All of their beans come from the Pacific, mainly Paupa New Guinea, Solomon Islands and Vanuatu, but only 1% of all the cacao beans grown actually come from this region. The majority are from Africa.

As we begin our tour, we are given a tasting box with 10 samples and led into a hexagonal room with big glass windows so you can see all the machinery. It’s not operating today, but our host talks us through the process, pointing out the different machines and what they do. Our guide then leaves us to watch a video that takes you through the bean to bar process. The samples in our box line up with the different stages. I first try the roasted bean and accidentally eat the husk, which isn’t very nice. Once I realise and remove it, its much better. We then move onto the cacao nibs followed by un-tempered chocolate. It’s bitter, but there are some beautiful flavours that shine through. Best of all, it’s actually good for you – filled with antioxidants.

We then get to the 70% PNG and Vanuatu chocolate. They are made from the same variety of bean, but the different soil and growing conditions create quite different flavours. I love the Vanuatu chocolate and the fact that they each have their own unique taste.

Next in the box is a more standard, off the shelf, commercial chocolate. It is one I am familiar with and generally enjoy, but in comparison to the other two, it doesn’t taste so good. The texture is gritty and feels waxy in my mouth.

The last samples we try are Ocho’s salted caramel and beekeeper chocolate. The salted caramel is devine and my favourite of all we try. The beekeeper one is interesting – a strong cocoa taste that finishes with very distinctive honey notes. Although the tour has now officially finished, the host lets us try a few more flavours that weren’t in the tasting box. 70% Solomon Islands, horipito & kawakawa, (very kiwi), hotcross bun and an 88% and 100% cocoa. I walk out of the shop with 4 different flavours to take home.

After all that chocolate tasting, we are ready for some lunch. We find a nice little cafe near The Octagon called The Corner Store Cafe. I get a delicious pumpkin, chilli & lemongrass soup with sour dough. It’s beautifully presented and certainly hits the spot.

We check into our hotel, The Levaithan. It’s basic, but clean and comfortable and the building is beautiful, decorated with old furniture and stained glass windows. But there is still more to explore, so we head across the road to the Toitū – Otago Settlers Museum. It has a really interesting collection, including a room filled with portraits of early settlers. On the digital boards, you can look them up to find out their names and some have further information about them. I even find a Geary among them and wonder if they were related to my husband’s family.

After dinner we head back to The Octagon. This afternoon it was filled with students, this evening it is filled with smudged lights reflecting on the watery surfaces. Bars and restaurants are packed and despite the cold, patrons are still enjoying their meals and drinks outside.

We step off the street and head into the opulent Regent Theatre. It’s beautiful inside with chandeliers and ceiling roses – a bygone era frozen in time. We are here to see the Royal NZ Ballet perform Romeo & Juliet. It’s a perfect venue to watch this tragic love story unfold. The costumes are vibrant, floaty and mesmerizing. The dancers are expressive, passionate and the story is so moving. It was a wonderful evening out.

Cycling from Clyde to Cromwell

On January 13, 2022January 11, 2022 By exploringthelongwhitecloudIn Otago, South Island, Uncategorized1 Comment

I am not a cyclist, by any means. The last time I rode a bike was in 2020, in short bursts between the Martinborough Vineyards. The time before that was in 2019 on an eBike day tour in Rome. And before that, it was probably back in 2012 at Ohope Beach.

Cycling is not my thing.

But I love the outdoors and being active. I also love the Central Otago Landscapes, so there was no way I was passing up the opportunity to explore this area by bike.

There are many cycle tracks and trails in Otago, including the Otago Rail Trail that connects Clyde to Middlemarch along a 152 Kilometre track. In May 2021, The Lake Dunstan Trail opened. My brother and I decided to tackle this 52km, track that connects Cromwell to Clyde.

We collect our e-bikes from Bike IT Now in Clyde and are given a short induction. We then do a quick test ride up and down the street to make sure we are comfortable and heights are set correctly. I am pretty rusty and wobble all over the place, but after a few minutes I get the hang of it. Your know the saying, ‘It’s just like riding a bike’.

We then set off to tackle the ride. I am excited for the day ahead and the sights we will see. After 10 or so minutes I test out the ebike, putting it onto eco. What a difference, it makes the pedalling so easy.

The path snakes alongside The Clutha River, which is a beautiful, vibrant, emerald green this morning. Throughout the day, the colours change to various shades of blues and turquoises. The lakes and rivers aren’t brilliant jewel colours in the North Island. South Island lakes are really quite special in this way.

It’s looking like it will be a hot day, but we have set off early and hope to avoid the fierce afternoon heat. The track starts out flat, then grows into a gradual climb. We cross Hugo bridge, an 85.5 metre suspension bridge. All I can say is, don’t look down! The track gets steeper and steeper, but with the eBike, it’s no problem, I just switch it onto boost and the bike practically pedals itself (and me) up the hills.

As we reach the peak, 342m high, there are some incredible views across the river and looking out to Cromwell. We stop for a while to soak in the view and see how far we have come.

We have gone up the hill, now it’s time to go down the other side. It’s pretty steep with some sharp turns and there are a few parts where I have to get off and walk the bike down. Cycling down steep hills is hard, but I do feel for the people we pass coming up it!

We reach the bottom and come across the newly launched Coffee Afloat. A boat serving coffee, ice creams, baking, cold drinks and snacks to the trail riders. In September, Burger Afloat was also launched. It’s pretty popular, there must have been at least 50 people there, resting on the nearby rocks and refueling.

We decide not to stop, so instead, carry onto the next section of the track, which is really quite impressive. Not impressive scenery, (although it is lovely) but the track itself. Up to this point, we have be cycling along tracks carved out of the hills, but this part is a path, suspended off the rocks, right above the river. Goodness knows how they were able to build such a structure, but it makes for some scenic riding.

By the time our tummies start to rumble, the perfectly positioned Carrick Vineyard comes into view. We refuel with pizza, olives and a cold drink. It’s an idyllic setting, but it’s also getting pretty hot so we don’t hang around for long after eating.

Cycling further along the river bank, over a bridge and through Cromwell Heritage Precinct we arrive at Bike IT Now to return the bikes. I am hot, yes, and my bum is rather sore (despite the double gel cushioned seat) but I’m not tired. The eBike was amazing, it made this trip possible for me. I don’t think I could have done this on a regular bike.

Apparently 70% of people doing this trail cycle from Cromwell to Clyde. We did it the other way and I am so glad we did. It’s a popular trail and with people heading in both directions, it does get pretty tight. Some parts of the track are especially narrow and I was always pleased to be on the side against the hill, rather than next to the edge!

I thoroughly enjoyed this trip, cycling through diverse landscape; dry, barren looking land, past huge rocks (and some pretty big drops) past pretty purple lupin flowers, through cool shady forests, over bridges and through historic precincts in a land that is rich in history.

All you need is a day and you too can discover some of the charm Central Otago has to offer.

Cromwell Delights

On January 6, 2022January 6, 2022 By exploringthelongwhitecloudIn Otago, South IslandLeave a comment

After the madness of Christmas passed (although I do love the Christmas madness) I packed my bags and headed down South on Boxing Day to spend some time with my brother and his family.

They were visiting his in-laws who are based in Cromwell. When I was invited to stay with them, I needed no convincing, Central Otago is one of my favourite parts of the country. And getting to spend a week with my nephew and niece was certainly a big draw card.

It was a rather bumpy flight in with the plane rolling from side to side, the Queenstown basin is known for its strong winds. I’m not a great flier so my hands were tightly gripping the arm rests while I focused on controlling my breathing. I had an aisle seat so I couldn’t even distract myself with a scenic view. But soon after landing I am picked up from the airport and presented with a container of fresh cherries. I quickly forget all about the bumpy flight in. I am so looking forward to gorging on Central Otago stone fruit this week.

What I love most about this place is the landscape. It’s so dramatic. Black jagged rock faces, dry, grassy tussocks land and jewel coloured lakes. It’s very distinctive and striking.

I have 6 days to explore the area. Plenty of time to relax and unwind and get a taste for Central Otago life. Here are some of the things we got up to during my stay.

A walk around the lake. Cromwell is nestled in below Lake Dunstan and bordered by the Clutha River. There are plenty of scenic walks you can take around the lake. One afternoon we sat in the shade of a tree on the shore of the Clutha River watching ducks and enjoying the slower pace of life that you get when you leave the city. Another day we ambled along the shore of Lake Dunstan and I learnt how to skip stones along the flat still water. There is something very soothing about being near water. In Cromwell, there are plenty of opportunities to enjoy it’s tranquility.

Wine Tasting. Your Central Otago trip wouldn’t be complete without a little (or a lot) of wine. I read somewhere that there are 25 wineries in Cromwell alone, so there are plenty of options. We went to Misha’s Vineyeard and Wooing Tree. These 2 make up part of the 4 Barrels Walking Wine Tour along with Scott Base and Aurum Wines. As the name suggests, you can visit them all by foot, with the total loop taking about 90 minutes plus stops. Sit in the sun or in the shade of a tree, and sip the Pinot Noir that makes Central Otago world famous. (There are also lots of other varieties to try. My favourite is always the dessert wines.) It’s a pleasant way to spend an afternoon and if you finish at Misha’s Vineyard, head on over to The Stoker Room next door for dinner.

Dining. Another stop you must make in Cromwell is to The Stoker Room. Their food is steamed, baked, grilled and smoked in French Oak Pinot Noir barrel cookers and the results are exquisite. I’m not really a fan of smoked foods, but this was delicious. Their meals are heavily meat based, but there were still several vegetarian options and my brother and I enjoyed sharing several small plates. It is also home to Wild Earth Wines and I was given strict instructions from my husband to make sure I ordered several bottles to be shipped back home. Their Chelsea Riesling is amazing. I am looking forward to that order arriving next week!

Fruit Picking. If you are here during the summer, there are endless amounts of sweet, delicious stone fruit at your finger tips. Head to one of the many local orchards and go fruit picking. We went to Cheeki Cherries where we were able to pick, big, juicy, scrumptious cherries. I was heading home that day with only carry on luggage so I had to be restrained, but so good to take a little bit of Central Otago home with me. A week later and I have nearly finished the 2kg box I brought back! Cheeki Cherries also have PYO apricots, nectarines and peaches. You could just go to a store and buy some, but where’s the fun in that? And besides, how lovely is it to walk through an orchard on a beautiful summer’s day?

These next 3 activities are in Wanaka, but it’s only a 40 minute drive so you can easily do a day trip. When we headed out there, the Rhythm and Alps festival was on and traffic was manic, so we didn’t go right into the township to the lake, but on a different day, it’s well worth the visit. I was in Wanaka last year though, you can read about that in this post Chillin’ in Wanaka.

National Transport & Toy Museum. Take a walk down memory lane, looking at old toys from times gone by. There were certainly some I remember from my childhood. There is also a collection of cars, service vehicles, planes, bikes and motorbikes. It’s an unusual place. An eclectic collection of things. Yes it has toys and yes it has a variety of transport vehicles, but you will also find old cellphones, computers, sewing machines and an entire wall of antique teaspoons. Lets just say, it’s an interesting place. My favourite were the vintage fire trucks.

Puzzling World. A place filled with illusions and mind tricks. One of the spaces, the tilted house, really messed with my mind. With no windows and clever use of slopes and lines, it leaves your mind very confused. It threw me off balance so much that it made me feel sick. The room of following faces was interesting though, step into the room & watch 168 pairs of eyes follow you around, left and right, up and down. Puzzling World wasn’t for me, although I am sure there are people out there who would love it.

Wanaka Lavender Farm. Immerse yourself in a sea of vibrant purple lavender while listening to the gentle hum of the hard working honey bees. The fragrance of the flowers, along with the sights and sounds are a delight for the senses. There are also a variety of farm animals you can visit while strolling the grounds. Back at the shop, try a lavender ice cream. They had 3 different flavours, I tried the traditional lavender, honey combo. It was unusual, but in a good way. An unfamiliar flavour, but refreshing and moreish.