I know that I am very fortunate to be able to say, there isn’t much of Aotearoa that I haven’t seen. However, there are still pockets of this beautiful country that I am yet to explore.
On a recent trip to Geraldine to see family, Daniel and I decide to make a spontaneous trip south to Oamaru and Moeraki. It was about a 1.5 hours drive and with bright blue skies above we were ready for our little road trip.
We arrive in Oamaru about 10am, I am surprised how big it is. For some reason I was expecting a small country town, but it is much bigger and has a population of around 14,000. Our first stop is to Steampunk HQ – an eclectic collection of what I can best describe as Victorian Sci-fi. It was an unusual place and very interactive. You could push all the buttons and flick all the switches, (great for kids) each time wondering what effect it would have. My favourite part of this museum is the room of mirrors. Filled with lights, it creates the illusion of depth and the reflection of the little lights flashing all around me made a beautiful sight.
After ambling our way through the museum, we take a stroll down the old Victorian Precinct, along the cobble stones and past beautifully detailed old shop front facades.
We continue south for another half an hour to a place I have wanted to visit for a long time – Moeraki. Now this place is very small. The attraction here is the Moeraki Boulders. It’s a large, sweeping, sandy beach that is really beautiful in its own right. The sea is a stunning blue that stretches out as far as the eye can see.
Off in the distance I can see the boulders, so we walk towards them. What’s special about these boulders you might ask? They are large, round rocks, semi submerged in the sand. They look like marbles, scattered about in a child’s school yard game. What adds to the mystery of these rocks is how they are condensed to one small part of the massive beach, with no other rocks in sight. The beach backs onto a cliff, and protruding from it is another boulder, semi submerged, waiting for a storm to release it from its hold. This one is particularly round and smooth, much more so than the ones of the beach, that have been weathered from the changing tide.
We head to the local cafe for some lunch and are pleasantly surprised. Sometimes places like these, set up right next to a tourist attraction, can be very average and expensive. However, my soup was really tasty, Daniel said his fish was excellent, and the views across the beach were lovely.
We head south a little further, there is a lighthouse walk I want to do. If you have been reading my blogs for a while, you will know that I am not good with directions. Don’t ever put me on reading the map, unless you want to get lost. Daniel knows this, but somehow, I still end up on directions. No surprises, instead of going to the lighthouse, we end up at Moeraki Village. But what a wonderful wrong turn. The little bay is simply gorgeous. I just can’t get over the colour of the ocean. Photos don’t do it justice, it was stunning. After soaking in all the beauty, we carry on and eventually end up at the lighthouse.
I was disappointed to see that the walk to the lighthouse is only a couple of minutes. So we continue the walk further towards the beach, which is home to seals, kororā (little blue) & hoiho (yellow eyed) penguins. There are a few seals on the shore, but it’s the wrong time of day for the penguins, they won’t be coming ashore until dusk. It’s still a nice little walk, I breathe in the fresh salty air and admire the sweeping views.
On our way back to Geraldine we make another stop in Oamaru to visit Whitestone Cheese Co. We didn’t do a factory tour, that needs to be booked in advance, but we did purchase their tasting platter with a selection of 5 cheeses. Their gold medal aged cheddar was sensational! It had incredible flavour and wonderful texture, I really love cheese that has little crystallized parts in it. So of course we leave with some of that, along with a selection of other items from their range.
It was a delightful day and I loved doing this little adventure with Daniel. The spontaneity of this road trip added to the excitement. I fell in love with Moeraki Bay and hope I will remember the brilliant colours of the ocean for years to come.
It’s our last day in Dunedin. In 2 days we have managed to see and do a lot, but I still have activities on my list before we board a plane to head home. It’s a very cool, fresh morning, but I can’t complain. The sun is out and it’s a perfect day for exploring the city.
We have breakfast at the hotel (Leviathan Heritage Hotel). The dining room is stunning. Beautiful moldings and sculptures decorate the ceilings and there is a large fireplace for warmth and atmosphere. We are the only ones in this large room. It feel like such a wasted space. It would have been a grand room in its days. The hotel was built in 1884. With its elegant, dark wooden interior and many stained glass windows, you can just imagine the balls and stories from the past that this hotel has seen. The hotel doesn’t look much from the outside, it was modernised in the 1950’s by previous owners which is such a shame, but inside you will find a beautiful old building.
We head out to The Octagon and begin a heritage walk around the city to look at all the old architecture. There are some beautiful buildings here. Using the heritage walk map we picked up from the information center, we begin at St. Paul’s Cathedral.
Looking around me, I feel like I am back in Europe. What a stunning building! A grand staircase leads up to the entrance. Tall, white pillars tower up to grand domes and arches, a beautiful example of Gothic architecture. Inside the beauty continues, it is equally impressive with high ceilings and many stained glass windows. There is something very peaceful in the vastness of the high ceilings and open space. I particularly like the window that pays homage to the landscape and nature that is distinct to Dunedin – fur seals, albatross & māhutonga star constellation to name a few.
I carry on my walk, stopping to look at various buildings; churches, hotels, banks. Dunedin was quite a wealthy city back in its gold mining days and these old buildings give a glimpse into that history.
Dunedin also has an art walk trail that goes around the city. Before heading out for my heritage walk, I marked some of them down on the map so I could check them out as I go. My favourite is the bright yellow mural with the rain cloud over the clock. I think it’s the sunny yellow I am drawn to.
I then head to Tūhura, the Otago Museum. I hadn’t planned to go here, but I have some free time. It is well worth the visit. There is a planetarium which I have heard is excellent and a tropical indoor forest with butterflies. Unfortunately I only have 30 minutes and you need to pay for these exhibits, so I decide to give them a miss. Next time I will check it out, it sounds amazing!
I instead spend my time wandering around the free exhibitions, pacific history, maritime and nature. The nature section has a full skeleton of a juvenile fin whale. Its size has quite the impact on me. I know whales are large, but their actual size is hard to comprehend. I start at its fluke and walk. Past the tail vertebrae, the fins and then finally, after what seems like quite some time, I reach its head. I try to imagine what it would be like to be in the water next to a creature of this size – and this one is only a baby. It really puts things into perspective.
I also really enjoy the exhibit of birds, in particular, the moa collection. Moa are extinct, flightless birds that were native to Aotearoa. They came in various sizes, some very large. Again, I knew they could be big, but when you see them up close, the scale is overwhelming. Coming face to face with a bird like this would be scary. I also loved seeing the taxidermy huia, another of our beautiful, flightless, native birds that is sadly extinct. I hadn’t intended to spend so much time among old bones and taxidermy, but found this section really interesting.
I meet back up with Mum for the next stop – Lan Yuan Dunedin Chinese Garden. Our guide yesterday told us that Dunedin’s sister city is Shanghai. This particular garden was designed and made in Shanghai then shipped to Dunedin. The garden is in the city, but it’s a very peaceful place and inside its walls you feel a world away from the hustle and bustle of city life. The running water over the rocks is soothing and I love the autumn colours of the tree leaves. It’s designed in a way that you don’t see everything at once, I like this. It helps you to focus on the beauty right in front of you. We take our time wandering around, soaking up the tranquility.
Our final stop is the Distinction hotel, we are ending our holiday with their high tea. After a fast paced couple of days it is nice to slow down. Over a hot cup of tea and some delicious little treats, we reflect on our time in Dunedin.
Mum asks what my favourite thing has been. It’s hard to decide. As I reflect, I realise that it’s not a particular activity, but moments. You know those moments that only last a second or 2, but in that time, the world seems to stop. You are so caught up in those few seconds, so captivated by a sight or a feeling. On this trip, there were many of those; a very moving scene in Romeo & Juliet, looking up the grand entrance steps, past the lion statues, up to Larnach Castle. The stunning views over Otago Peninsula. Watching albatross effortlessly glide through the air with their massive wingspan. The warmth of a roaring fire with a pizza for dinner and being awestruck at the mighty size of a juvenile fin whale. Our world is full of marvelous, incredible, awe inspiring things that can so easily be missed. I love that I am able to be captivated by the beauty in the simple.
When we are done exploring Larnach Castle, we get back on the van and continue heading out further along the peninsula, which is home to many creatures. As it’s almost an island, it was very easy to put up a predator fence to protect its residents. Seals, sea birds, penguins and sea lions all call this place home.
We arrive at the wharf and join up with another group for this part of the tour. We board the boat and follow the coastline out to the point where the Northern Royal Albatross nest. Up on the hill I can see little white dots of fuzzy chicks in their nests.
Gliding through the air, we spot our first albatross. They are an incredible animal to witness. This is my 3rd time seeing them and it takes my breath away every time. Their wingspan is impressive and such a sight to behold. We learn that they are able to lock their wings. This enables them to glide without effort and the reason they can travel such distances. We watch one albatross for a while as it circles the boat, soars high and then glides down and across the sea.
We then head further out around the coast. We have lost the protection and shelter of the inlet and the boat begins to rock back and forth in the swell. We spot some seals on the rocks. They are hard to see as they blend in so well, but there is a pup with white marking on its face that makes it stand out. It’s very small and we watch as it navigates the rocks. Above, a lighthouse sits perched on the hill, very picturesque.
As we travel even further out, we see several more albatross of different species. There must be some fish or krill as they are all gathered in one place. They are majestic birds – the way they glide through the air, it’s so calming. It’s really special to see them up close. We get some great sightings. It’s hard to get photos as the boat is bobbing up and down so much, but I manage to snap a couple.
When we return to the hotel, we spend some time defrosting with the heater on and a hot cup of tea. But dinner is calling so we brave the cold and head out to Biggies Pizza. Thursday to Saturdays it’s a nightclub from 10pm, a place that is very popular with the students. But we are here on a Sunday evening, when the town is quiet and sleepy. We almost have the place to ourselves. The restaurant is deliciously warm with a roaring fire and playing a ‘best of the 80s playlist’. The perfect setting to enjoy a delicious pizza.
It’s beautiful today, the rain has cleared, the sun is out and the air is still – perfect for our tour. We are collected from our hotel by Monarch Wildlife Cruises & Tours. Rob is our guide for the day. We will be heading out to the peninsula to explore Larnach Castle followed by a nature cruise to spot albatross and seals. It’s a private tour for us this morning – we are the only ones booked.
Our journey to the castle begins with a drive over the hills on the peninsula, with some impressive views of the inlet. Sunlight is catching the water and reflecting, making it look like a mirror. It’s such a perfectly still day. Rob has a wealth of knowledge of the area, which he happily shares with us on the drive.
We head down a long driveway surrounded by tall trees – I can’t wait to see the castle, it is the only one we have in New Zealand. Rob stops briefly to point out the old gates which were made from a whale’s jaw bone. I know whales are big, but when you see things like this, it really puts it into perspective!
Finally the forest driveway ends and there it is, standing in all its grandeur. What a sight.
Larnach Castle was built for William Larnach in the latter half of the 19th century and took 12 years to complete. The family and workers lived in tents on the land but after 4 years, they had had enough of tent life and moved in while it was still being built. It was never known as Larnach’s Castle to the family, but always referred to as ‘The Camp’.
We walk up the stairs, marveling at the impressive stone work. A pair of lions and an eagle statue guard the steep steps to the entrance.
We begin on the porch, a large, gloriously sunny room that has been closed in with windows. I would love to find a spot here to curl up in and read a book. Rob guides us through the castle, room by room, sharing stories and history of the castle, its furniture and residents.
While on the tour we visit the dining room, ladies parlor, bedrooms, breakfast room and more. Each room has its own stories to tell. There is so much detail everywhere, from the wooden carvings, to the chandeliers and tiled floors, not to mention all the beautiful furniture.
In one room, there is a photo of the Larnach family. Rob tells us about the dark history of Williams’ rise and fall, his 3 wives and his suicide. It’s a sad and tragic story. He was a hard worker and contributed a lot to the early development of Dunedin.
In the final part of our guided tour, we climb the steep and narrow spiral staircase up to the balcony of the turret and are rewarded with spectacular 360 degree views. We can see Dunedin City, right out across the peninsula. It’s breathtaking. After marveling at the views, we are given free time to wander around the gardens and explore on our own.
Today, the castle is owned by the Barker Family, who purchased the property in 1967. It was in a terrible state and the family have worked tirelessly to bring it back to its former glory. This includes purchasing back original pieces of furniture when they can. Larnach Castle is a fascinating place to explore.
It’s an unusually still day for Wellington, raining, but still. I have been day dreaming lately about moving away from Wellington, somewhere warmer, sunnier, like Nelson perhaps. But even on wet days like today, when there is stillness, it’s a beautiful place to live.
Once we take our seat on the plane, I go straight for the in-flight magazine, Kia Ora. It’s one of my favourites and I have been looking forward to an uninterrupted hour with it. It doesn’t disappoint. I am so engrossed in the articles that I hardly even look out the window. There is one on Fiji which gets me very excited for my upcoming trip and another one on Japan, a place that is moving higher up on my bucket list.
It’s a pretty smooth flight and when we land, I have only made my way through half of the magazine, the rest will be a good read for the flight home. We disembark the aircraft and walk across the tarmac to the terminal. There is a bit of rain in the air, but it’s not too cold. Mum and I catch a shuttle to the city, drop our bags off at the hotel and set out to explore.
We are in Dunedin. The last time I was here was 20 years ago! I am excited to not only explore the city centre, but also the peninsula. Our first stop is the old historic railway station. I have been looking forward to seeing some of the old buildings. Dunedin has strong Scottish heritage and some well preserved Edwardian architecture. Unfortunately, half the station is behind scaffolding, but I can still enjoy the beautifully manicured gardens out front and some of the architecture. It’s a magnificent building.
We are there on market day so we take the opportunity to wander around the farmer’s stalls. There is fresh produce, like fruit and vegetables, but at least half of the stalls are selling artisan breads, pastries, chutneys and even gin. There is a delectable selection of goods.
We then wander up towards The Octagon. Otago University Graduation is on. The students are walking in a parade and family and friends have gathered to celebrate this milestone. We then carry on with our walk, consulting a map every now and again, arriving at our next destination, Ocho.
Ocho is a local artisan chocolate company and we are booked on one of their tours. As we step inside, we are greeted with a warm, comforting smell of chocolate, very different to the overly sweet, sickly smell of Cadbury (a tour I did when I was here last). The chocolate smell at Ocho is refined, it draws you in, inviting you to taste its delights. We are a little early so we wander around the shop and have a chat with the staff. All of their beans come from the Pacific, mainly Paupa New Guinea, Solomon Islands and Vanuatu, but only 1% of all the cacao beans grown actually come from this region. The majority are from Africa.
As we begin our tour, we are given a tasting box with 10 samples and led into a hexagonal room with big glass windows so you can see all the machinery. It’s not operating today, but our host talks us through the process, pointing out the different machines and what they do. Our guide then leaves us to watch a video that takes you through the bean to bar process. The samples in our box line up with the different stages. I first try the roasted bean and accidentally eat the husk, which isn’t very nice. Once I realise and remove it, its much better. We then move onto the cacao nibs followed by un-tempered chocolate. It’s bitter, but there are some beautiful flavours that shine through. Best of all, it’s actually good for you – filled with antioxidants.
We then get to the 70% PNG and Vanuatu chocolate. They are made from the same variety of bean, but the different soil and growing conditions create quite different flavours. I love the Vanuatu chocolate and the fact that they each have their own unique taste.
Next in the box is a more standard, off the shelf, commercial chocolate. It is one I am familiar with and generally enjoy, but in comparison to the other two, it doesn’t taste so good. The texture is gritty and feels waxy in my mouth.
The last samples we try are Ocho’s salted caramel and beekeeper chocolate. The salted caramel is devine and my favourite of all we try. The beekeeper one is interesting – a strong cocoa taste that finishes with very distinctive honey notes. Although the tour has now officially finished, the host lets us try a few more flavours that weren’t in the tasting box. 70% Solomon Islands, horipito & kawakawa, (very kiwi), hotcross bun and an 88% and 100% cocoa. I walk out of the shop with 4 different flavours to take home.
After all that chocolate tasting, we are ready for some lunch. We find a nice little cafe near The Octagon called The Corner Store Cafe. I get a delicious pumpkin, chilli & lemongrass soup with sour dough. It’s beautifully presented and certainly hits the spot.
We check into our hotel, The Levaithan. It’s basic, but clean and comfortable and the building is beautiful, decorated with old furniture and stained glass windows. But there is still more to explore, so we head across the road to the Toitū – Otago Settlers Museum. It has a really interesting collection, including a room filled with portraits of early settlers. On the digital boards, you can look them up to find out their names and some have further information about them. I even find a Geary among them and wonder if they were related to my husband’s family.
After dinner we head back to The Octagon. This afternoon it was filled with students, this evening it is filled with smudged lights reflecting on the watery surfaces. Bars and restaurants are packed and despite the cold, patrons are still enjoying their meals and drinks outside.
We step off the street and head into the opulent Regent Theatre. It’s beautiful inside with chandeliers and ceiling roses – a bygone era frozen in time. We are here to see the Royal NZ Ballet perform Romeo & Juliet. It’s a perfect venue to watch this tragic love story unfold. The costumes are vibrant, floaty and mesmerizing. The dancers are expressive, passionate and the story is so moving. It was a wonderful evening out.
It was a bit of a whirlwind trip, but last week, my mum and I spent just over 24 hours in the Garden City. I thought there might be delays to the flight due to the weather in Wellington, but we managed to miss the thunder storm and touched down in Christchurch around 9:30am.
We head straight to the city on the airport bus (a cheap and convenient way to get into town) and start making our way to the city tram. This is the one activity I really wanted to do last time we were here, but ran out of time for. So it’s the first thing on the agenda for today.
My sense of direction (or lack off) meant we were wandering around for quite some time trying to find the tram depot. We then stumble across the tram tracks so followed them for a while and eventually find what we were looking for.
The tram is beautiful. I think there were about 4 in circulation that day, but our one seemed to be the oldest. They have all been restored and it’s a unique way to see the city. The tram interior is all wooden with intricate detailing and big glass windows for viewing. The loop takes about 50 minutes and includes onboard commentary. Unfortunately there is quite a lot of talking going on between the other passengers, so at times it was quite hard to hear what the driver was saying. But it’s a great way to get your bearings, have a quick overview of some of the attractions around and get a feel for what you want to see. It’s a hop on hop off ticket, meaning it’s valid for the day and is a convenient way to get around.
After disembarking the tram, I know exactly where we are heading. New Regent Street. It’s a pedestrian only shopping street which was developed in the early 1930s in Spanish architectural style. The facades are in pretty pastel colours with lots of window detailing. What is also interesting is the buildings on each side of the street mirror each other exactly in both colour and design. There are some cute little shops and well worth a wander down.
I’ll confess, I am here for Rollickin which is a gelato company. It’s a funky place with tantalizing gelato, and some interesting names. I choose ‘Stacy’s Mum’ A blueberry cheesecake gelato with lemon curd and a sprinkling of vanilla crust crumbs. It was fantastic, the texture of the crumb in it was delightful and the curd added a bit of zing. All combined, it was a flavour sensation.
We then take a bit of a wander through the city, heading towards the Riverside Market where we intend to get some lunch. Along the way, we pass lots of street art on the side of buildings. It’s one of the things I love about Christchurch. There are some really interesting pieces that are very well done and they add so much colour to the place. There is one in particular that has me intrigued. It plays tricks on your eyes. It’s painted like some old market shop fronts and looks completely 3D but all done on a flat wall. As you walk towards it and then past it, it changes from looking like 3D shop fronts, to disappearing into a flat wall. It’s hard to explain, but’s it’s an incredible illusion. You will have to check it out for yourself. This crazy street art is on the back of the Riverside markets so we head inside to grab some lunch.
I had been hoping for a delicious leek, cheese and (I think) potato cornish pastie, from The Great Pastry Shop but they had just sold out. This forces me to try something different and I end up with a Vietnamese Tofu Sandwich. It was pretty yum and although I would have preferred the pastie, it was actually great to try something new. I can be a creature of habit! There are so many options here to try, you are really spoilt for choice.
After a little wander around the shops I find myself at Ben & Jerry’s, ready for another gelato. This time I get one called ‘Half Baked’. A chocolate ice cream with cookie dough and fudge. This was very sweet and the flavour felt less refined to ‘Stacy’s Mum’, but it was still excellent. I had this idea that I would go to as many gelato places as I could on this trip. I thought it would be a fun thing to blog about, but I will tell you now, it was such a cold day, that I only managed these 2 gelatos. I actually had several strangers comment as I was walking past them on the street about how I was a bit mad for eating ice cream on such a cold day. I think this is a challenge I will need to repeat in the Summer!
After heading to an appointment and having another look around the shops, it’s late afternoon. We decide it’s the perfect time to warm up with a cup of hot chocolate. And we know exactly where to go for that. She Chocolaterie. Another place we loved so much last time and just had to come back. You know when you have really good quality artisan chocolate you can taste the different flavours of the beans. Some are nutty, some are fruity, just like coffee beans. It’s the same with hot chocolate. You can taste the fruity notes coming through. This is another must try if you are in the Garden City.
Our last activity for the day is a movie at Lumiere Cinema It’s located in the Arts Center in such a beautiful old building. You can purchase cheese boards and wine to enjoy during the film and the seats are incredibly comfy. (Unfortunately I was way too full of gelato and hot chocolate to purchase anymore food.) I much prefer the more boutique cinemas to the large, mainstream ones. This was a relaxing way to finish off our evening.
We stay the night at Hotel Give which I highly recommend. Not only was it great value for money, it has been recently refurbished, has super comfy beds and is really big on sustainability. They also put all profits from your stay back into the programs and services that the YMCA offers vulnerable members of the community. How great is that? It is also across the road from Lumiere Cinema. Win win.
We have a beautiful day for our flight home that ends our 25 hours in Christchurch. There are some great views from the plane and for the first time I really notice how much of our land hasn’t been built on. There are so many forests and mountains and lakes to explore. Aotearoa is stunning and I am so grateful that I get to experience so much of it.
It started with a birthday wish. Daniel’s grandma was celebrating her 80th birthday and wanted to do a nature cruise in Akaroa. In the weeks leading up to it, we weren’t sure it would go ahead. Omicron had raised its ugly head and case numbers were skyrocketing. But we made it there, and I have to say, it was a pretty amazing trip.
We arrive in Christchurch and while Daniel’s parents are sorting out the rental car, Daniel, his sister and I take a seat nearby. We are chatting but then Daniel hears the word ‘upgrade’ come from the rental car guy and he is off, planting himself right between his parents ready to start negotiating the upgrade and get a ‘fancier car’. A few $$$ later and a hilarious incident of window wipers going flat out instead of the indicator (a European car where the levers are opposite to what we are used to) we are on the road making our way to what I hope will be sunny Akaroa.
I didn’t know a lot about Akaroa other than this; it is located in the South Island of Aotearoa, and a bit over an hour’s drive from Christchurch. Oh, and it was settled by the French and the street names are all in le français. Fortunately, this is an English speaking area (like the rest of New Zealand) as the extent of my French is Bonjour.
I have been there once before, about 9 years ago when Daniel and I spent 3 weeks exploring the South Island on our motorbike. But we only spent about an hour there so I was really looking forward to getting to know this place better.
It’s a rather winding road that goes up and over a hill to get there, but we finally get our first glimpse of Akaroa and it is beautiful. Made even better by the fact that it is basking in sunshine.
We arrive and head straight out to lunch, making our way to The Brasserie Kitchen & Wine Bar which has a lovely outdoor setting. I order the most French thing I can find on the menu, a crepe filled with cheese and roasted vegetables then followed by a macaron. They were both outstanding, one of the nicest macaron’s I have ever had and an excellent start to the trip. I am now wondering why I never went back to buy more macarons. A tip for next time.
Lunch is followed by a stroll along the promenade, stopping to browse in shops and take in the lovely sea views. The ocean is such a gorgeous colour. We head further round the bay to check out the lighthouse and then up a few steps to the Akaroa Lookout Point. It is probably the lowest lookout I have ever been to. Honestly, it was only about 10 steps up, but still a nice view point. The walk through the forest is noticeably cool, so nice in the midday heat. The cicadas are singing their happy tunes.
After checking in at our accommodation, we head over to the Beer Garden at the Madeira Hotel to enjoy the last of the afternoon sun, share stories over drinks and snacks and wait for the birthday girl and rest of the family to arrive. It’s a very relaxed afternoon and evening with lots of laughs.
One of my goals for the year is to watch some sunrises. I decide that Akaroa is the first place I am going to try this. It is on the east coast, but surrounded by hills. I know I won’t get to see the sun come up over the horizon, but I still think it will be worth watching.
Daniel enjoyed a lot of beverages the night before, so, being the good wife that I am, I leave him sleeping and head out about 6:30am. There is a wharf nearby so I walk along that and take a seat at the end to enjoy the show. It is so still and no one is around. It is quiet and peaceful. No car engines, no boat engines, just stillness. It’s a sleepy town and I get to watch it wake up. The sky is blushed with pink and gold tones. This moment is beautiful. It feels like a secret gift, just for me.
After about an hour of watching Akaroa come to life, I am called to breakfast by my rather loud rumbling tummy. It leads me to Rona’s cafe, where I find an almond croissant to eat at the waterfront. Gosh, I love having pastries for breakfast. It’s certainly not an everyday breakfast food (unless you are in Europe, then the rule doesn’t apply!) but it’s a lovely holiday treat.
The rest of the morning is slow and leisurely and at lunchtime we head down to the wharf for the main event of the weekend. A nature cruise with Akaroa Dolphins. I was delighted to discover that this is the company that has a 4 legged crew member. Albie the Spaniel was on board greeting all the guests as they arrived. Already kitted out in his life jacket, Albie is ready to spot some dolphins. Apparently dogs can hear dolphins talking to each other so Albie will be able to let guests know when they are near.
We head out into the harbour and our skipper shares some of the history of the area. It was here I learn that Akaroa was actually settled by the French and the English and that half the street names are French and half are English. We also learnt that Akaroa used to be a volcano that erupted millions of years ago. The eruption was so big that it created the harbour and a channel out to the Pacific Ocean. If you look at a terrain or satellite image of Akaroa, you can quite clearly see the mountain range forming a ring where the volcano would have been. We also learn about some of the Maori history of the area. It is super interesting. The captain is knowledgeable for sure, but also delivered it in an interesting and entertaining way.
It doesn’t take long before we spot our first dolphin. Their round, black ‘mickey mouse’ fin is very distinctive and their silver bodies flash in the water when near the surface. Hector’s dolphins are the smallest and rarest dolphin in the world. They grow to only 1.5 meters in length and are normally found in pods of 2-5. Our first sighting is a single dolphin that comes right up to the boat. It swims all around the boat giving spectators from all sides a great view. It hangs around for a while so the captain starts moving the boat going forward to see if it wants to play. It does! It zooms through the water at the bow at incredible speed, it has no issues keeping up with the boat. We watch it, darting along, popping up through the water and back under.
One of the crew then comes around offering complimentary drinks, including wine and beer. Ah, yes please, I will have a wine!
We carry on further, wine in hand, checking out the coastline and looking for more dolphins. It doesn’t take long before we find our next pod, and another, and another. There were so many dolphins, flashes of black and silver in every direction, putting on a spectacular show. I almost didn’t know where to look.
Some were in the distance jumping out of the water, some swimming at the boat in groups from different directions and others swimming alongside the boat. It was incredible. We stay with the dolphins for quite some time, totally in awe at the experience. It is such a privilege to not only see them, but to encounter so many.
After we have all had our dolphin fix, we head out further to see more dramatic coastline, a seal colony and head out to the Pacific Ocean. It gets pretty wild, the boat going up, up and then crashing down in the swells, it’s like an amusement ride at a theme park and I am loving it. If you are not great out at sea, this bit didn’t last very long at all. Some members of our group struggle with sea/motion sickness but said they were OK because it was over quickly and there was plenty of fresh air.
We then head back to the wharf buzzing. This has been an outstanding tour. I have loved every minute of it and cannot recommend it enough. Hector’s dolphins are beautiful creatures, fun and playful. This is an experience not to be missed.
The afternoon is spent with more drinks in the sun, enjoying the company of family. We then have pre dinner drinks followed by dinner at Ma Maison. It has beautiful views out across the harbour and the perfect setting for a birthday celebration dinner. Unfortunately our meals do take an incredibly long time to come out. They were quite understaffed, as were most of the places we visited on this trip. I believe this is an area that would normally rely on filling vacancies with backpackers and visitors who are working and exploring their way around our great country. Covid has certainly had an impact there.
But, despite the long wait, the food was really good, and the staff really friendly. It was certainly a place I would be happy to visit again.
Our last day in Akaroa starts with another treat from Rona’s cafe, eaten down on the waterfront. On the drive back to Christchurch, we stop at The Hilltop Tavern which has spectacular views out over Akaroa and the surrounding bays. It’s a perfect way to end the trip, looking out across the place we have spent the weekend exploring.
Today is off to a great start. I wake up to no rain and French toast! French Toast! Yum!
I sit down by the beach. The sun is out and warming me up. Finally! It’s so nice to see you sunshine, you have been a stranger these last 2 days. The water is so clear, and still. There are no big waves. It’s a very sheltered bay and so peaceful. It’s just like in the Islands, minus the palm trees. Finally I am basking in the sunshine. This is more like what I had imagined.
Slowly I move down to the water. My body is very stiff and sore from yesterday’s adventure. I am glad we are kayaking today, I don’t think I could manage a walk. The sand is soft and powdery, the water cool and inviting. The sea is so clear, I can see little fish swimming around and their shadows cast on the ocean floor.
Again, we are given 2 choices for the day. We can leave soon, take our gear and paddle back up to Bark Bay and get collected from there. Or, we can have a cruisy day, leave a bit later and explore the lagoon at high tide in the kayaks and be collected from where we currently are. Today I am pleased that our group chooses the cruisy option!
We leisurely pack up the tents, our gear and our campsite. All we need today is our small dry bags with water, togs and a camera. We get into the kayaks and head off. Today is about exploring in the sunshine! It ends up being a bit of a nature tour. We see shags, a stingray, oyster catches and sea stars. Red is really knowledgeable and is able to share lots of information about them with us. It’s nice paddling in the lagoon. Everything about today feels relaxed and leisurely. It’s amazing what a difference a bit of sun can make.
We stop for lunch in a small bay and while Red is preparing it, we all go for a swim. It’s really cold today, despite the sun being out. I think it’s gotten colder each day! While we are in the water, the ladies from the other group arrive in their kayak. They have paddled down from Bark Bay and will head down to Anchorage to join us for pick up.
We spend a while at this bay, having lunch and enjoying the amazing sunshine. But all good things must come to an end and it’s time to start the journey home. We jump in the kayaks and begin the paddle back. Daniel wants to be near the rocks as it’s ‘more interesting’ so we are constantly having to try and maneuver around them and avoid the ones that appear suddenly just below the surface. It’s not really very relaxing. The water gets choppy in a few places and the swell pushes us into the rocks. I get nervous that it’s going to roll us over, but nothing like that happens.
We land in Anchorage and unload the gear, then the ladies come sailing in. Yes, sailing! They have made a makeshift sail boat by linking their kayaks and using a fly and their paddles as a sail. It’s pretty cool to watch. They cruise into shore with a big hooray, shouting and cheering at their achievements. They have done so well. What an awesome group of women! I hope that I am as adventurous and well connected with friends when I am their age.
We board our water taxi and head back to Marahau. It’s not until we do this trip that I realise how far we actually paddled on that first day. In the rain. I feel pretty proud of myself. We have all done exceptionally well!
Back at the base we unpack our gear, change into clean clothes and enjoy sitting in the sun. Today’s weather has been glorious. It has soaked away any remaining dampness from my body. This trip was far from my expectations, mostly because of the weather, but with some positivity and a ‘just got to roll with it’ attitude, it turned out to be an amazing adventure.
Our kayaking and camping tour ended up being a kayaking, walking, camping, DOC hut, river crossing, nature cruising adventure. We got to see the park from sea and from land. At its best and at its worst. Best of all, I got to enjoy this experience with my best friend.
It rained persistently all night and into the morning. Will it ever stop? My visions of basking in the Abel Tasman sunshine are quickly fading.
But I get up and am greeted with a hot cup of mint and matcha tea. It’s so good and makes the weather seem not that bad. The ladies are up. They are eager to know what the plan for the day is and ask their very patient guide Kyle about 100 times what they will be doing. Our guides are waiting for a weather update before they make any decisions.
Breakfast is toasted muffin splits with jam and banana. A nice way to start the day. Red then gives us the options. First, he lays down the facts. The wind out on the water is too strong today so kayaking is off the table. But, it is meant to stop raining around lunchtime.
Our 2 choices, we can walk to Anchorage Bay, around a 4 hours walk and the water taxi will collect our gear and kayaks and drop it off. Or, we stay at Bark Bay and do some walks in the afternoon. Regardless of where we go, we will need to tent tonight as there is no room at the inn. But it shouldn’t be raining.
Our group decides to walk to Anchorage. Its not often you get to do one of the great walks, without having to carry all the gear!
Kyle suggests we take a walk to see the waterfall again, in this weather it should be more impressive. So we head out to take a look. The water has gone very brown, but otherwise it doesn’t look much different. Still, the walk in the bush is nice. The rest of the morning is spent in the hut, chatting and warming ourselves around the fire.
We have lunch and as promised, the rain stops. We pack up all the gear and take it down to the beach. It’s probably only a 3 minute walk but we have to do several trips and the items get heavier and heavier. We get everything down to the beach, only to find the boat is anchored at the other end of the beach and can’t get down to us. So we then each make a couple of trips back and forth along the beach in the soft squishy, so hard to walk in sand with all the heavy items. Then followed by a river crossing to finally get to the boat. It’s fast flowing water and up to my knees so I take it slowly and manage to not fall in.
That done, we are ready to start our walk to Anchorage Bay. We set off and my fitbit buzzes. I have just completed my goal of 10,000 steps for the day! There are going to be a lot of steps done today!
The walk is beautiful. It’s so nice to be able to explore without having the weight of a tramping pack. Initially I was disappointed, I wanted to kayak Abel Tasman, but I think this worked out for the best. We got to see the park from the sea, now we get to experience it from the land. They are quite different view points.
We then come to a small detour to a lookout point. The group decides not to do it, I’m disappointed, but we agree we will go to the next one. The next one comes around pretty quickly. It’s a 5 mins detour to take us to see Sandfly Bay. Its a steep path down, not a nice, smooth track. We have to almost climb down, finding footing among the tree roots. All I can think about is how we are going to have to come back up this! It takes us way longer than 5 minutes but we finally end up on a golden sandy beach with huge granite boulders that have been smoothed over by the sea. It also lived up to it’s name, although, most beaches in this area have a mass of sandflies. We spend a little while on the beach, I close my eyes and try to soak up the peacefulness, the waves, the birds and cicadas. Lovely.
Then it’s time to head back up. All you can do is place one foot in front of the other and set your own pace. When we reach the top, we all need a break to catch our breath. We notice on the other side of the sign, pointing to Sandfly Bay, someone has scratched a 1 in front of the 5 minutes. 15 minutes, that seems more like it.
We carry on, the track does have some elevated sections, but for the most part it is pretty easy walking. I do find the hills pretty challenging. I walk a lot, but mostly on the flat. Its a well maintained track, it’s probably one of the most walked tracks in the country. It’s mostly through the forest, but every now an again, there is a break in the trees where you can see the ocean and little secluded coves.
We eventually arrive at Torrent Bay. It used to be a farm that then got subdivided. Now there are baches (holiday homes) everywhere. Some are small, modest, olde fashioned kiwi baches, others are a bit more upmarket. It’s a pretty sweet place for a holiday house! Regardless of their size, they would all be worth a fortune!
At Torrent Bay, we are again given 2 options. Anchorage is the next bay over. We can do the low tide walk, which involves river crossings, or, take the high tide route, which takes an extra hour and a half, but takes you past the 10 minute detour to Cleopatra’s Pool where there are large smooth rocks you can slide down into the pool. We have been walking for a while, I might be tempted to take a dip.
The group decide on the low tide walk, they want to get to the campsite, but Red lets Daniel and I take the high tide walk. I am here to see and experience the park. I am taking the opportunities as they come. As we set off, my fitbit buzzes again. 20,000 steps!
It’s nice having this time with just Daniel. We can set our own pace and I can stop when I want to take in my surroundings and enjoy the nature. I don’t mind at all that it’s adding all this extra time to our walk. While the others are walking straight through the lagoon, our track follows it circumference, snaking in and out.
We get to the detour for Cleopatra’s Pool and follow the track alongside the river. The forest here is stunning. Low growing fern, punga, black beach and rimu densely fill the sides of the river. It’s layered and textured and so exquisite. The photo’s just don’t do it justice.
Then the track stops. We have reached the pools but the river has forked and we are on the wrong side. On the other side of the riverbank we can see the sign for Cleopatra’s Pool. We look around but can’t find any track to get us there. There are some big boulders in the river so we decide to cross there. We jump across on the rocks. The last ones are quite far apart. I’m not sure I will be able to make that. Daniel of course does it with ease, then steadies himself, ready to catch me.
One. Two, Three. I jump. I almost don’t make it, but Daniel grabs me and pulls me onto the rock. As I land though, feel something go pop in my leg. I do a quick assessment of my body, I am shaking but I can still walk, good. I am limping a little, hopefully it will be ok. We still have 1.5 hours of walking to do.
The jump across has got us to the pools, but the water is high and fast flowing, it’s also pretty brown. There is no way we will attempt to slide down those rocks, it wouldn’t be safe. So we take some photos, admire the view and then hop back across the rocks to the track. I take a different route, but again, the last step looks too far for me to jump. I am not risking that again. So it’s off with the shoes and socks and I walk the last part. It’s fast flowing water up to my knees, but it’s only a couple of steps and Daniel is right there to help me.
We walk the rest of the track. My leg is a bit sore, but I am managing. I think I will be pretty stiff though once I cool down and my muscles are no longer warm. The track finally leads us out to another beautiful beach. Anchorage Bay. A huge, crescent stretch of golden sand. The sea is green, reflecting the colour of the trees and boats have docked in the quite bay. The water looks so inviting. Again, it is quite a long beach, so we start our walk to the camp. Today’s walk has started and ended on the beach. As we set off, my fitbit buzzes again. 30,000!
We arrive at camp to find the rest of the group have put up our tent. How sweet! There is also a delicious looking spread of wine, chips, cheese, crackers ready for us to dive into. The chips almost hold me hostage, but there is one thing I must do first. Go for a swim.
No one else is keen to join me so I head down on my own. The water is cold and gets deep very quickly (not like at Bark Bay) but it is incredible. I become weightless and my tired, sore, achy muscles are loving it. I am the only one on the beach. The water is so clear and flat, apart form the little circles forming on the surface from the light rain. This is magical. A little perfect moment just for myself. It’s things like this that make life so sweet.
I stay in much longer than I intended because my muscles feel so soothed but I am also starting to get rather cold and we are in a tent tonight so getting warm is going to be a bit harder. I actually find it really hard to get out, I almost fall over twice, my legs are groaning as they are forced to support my weight again. I slowly hobble back to camp, change into warm clothes and sit myself down right in front of the chips and cheese. I’ve earnt this!
The rest of the evening is spent around the picnic table, chatting with our group and enjoying some local wines. Red cooks us dinner and we watch some weka having a stand off. They are such cheeky birds. Not at all afraid and very keen to try and get into the cooking equipment and food. There are lots of fantails at this campsite too. They are such sweet little birds.
Tonight we sleep in our tent. It’s not the most comfortable sleep, but I am exhausted enough that it doesn’t really matter. I fall asleep to the rhythmic sound of the waves and a morepork. It’s been a good day.
February, it’s generally the most reliable month in the country for warm, sunny weather. That’s why Daniel and I take our Summer Holiday in February. The weather is great, schools have gone back and it’s getting towards the end of peak tourist season. It’s the perfect time to travel.
And Abel Tasman, it’s in the sunny Tasman region, well know for it’s hours and hours of glorious sunshine.
A multi day kayak through Abel Tasman National Park has been on my bucket list since long before I even knew what a bucket list was. And now I can tick it off the list. And, we did this through some of the worst February weather we have had in a long time, while the country was experiencing a tropical cyclone…..
Day 1.
Actually, I will rewind and start this story on the morning before day 1. Daniel and I are in the dining room of our hostel, quietly eating our breakfast. At the other end of the dining hall is a table of 8 senior citizen women who are making quite a racket. Excitedly chattering away, it looks like they are having a great time. I overhear them talking about going on a kayak tour.
Day 1. Daniel and I step outside the hostel at 6.55am in the drizzling rain, waiting to be collected by Abel Tasman Kayaks. There is a father and son also waiting outside. We get talking and find we are on the same tour. And then, who should also step outside , I know you know where this story is going, the women from the breakfast yesterday. Already their banter has me laughing. They are such a hoot. They will be entertaining companions on this tour that’s for sure!
We are collected by Abel Tasman Kayaks in a shuttle and driven out to Marahau. It takes a bit over an hour but it’s very scenic. We drive along the coastal route. It’s still and the colours of the sky and sea are soft and blended. It looks like a water colour painting. The day is still waking up.
Further into the drive, the rain starts pelting down. This is going to be a very wet trip. It’s pretty disappointing, but what can you do other than roll with it and make the most of the situation?
We arrive at the base and are introduced to our guide Mitchell, but everyone calls him Red. With the assistance of Red, for the next 3 days, we will be exploring Abel Tasman Park with the father and son from this morning and a couple who self drove to the base. The senior citizens are in their own group accompanied by their incredibly patient guide, Kyle.
We pack the clothes we will need into dry bags, and then put everything into the kayaks. We get provided with a tent and sleeping bag and all the food and cooking equipment needed has already been loaded into the kayaks. We are then given spray skirts, spray jackets and life jackets. The rain is heavy and persistent. We are trying to keep dry, sticking to the shelter, but soon there will be no avoiding it.
With the kayaks loaded onto the truck, we head down to the beach. Normally this trip starts with a water taxi ride up to Awaroa in the northern end of the park and then you kayak back down to Marahau over the 3 days. Because of the weather, our tour will be different. We are jumping straight in with a 5 hour kayak to Bark Bay where our guides have managed to secure us a hut for the night (rather than being in a tent.)
After a safety briefing and some instructions on how to paddle, we launch our kayaks. Instantly I notice how quiet it is on the water. It is calm and peaceful with the soft pitter patter of rain on the ocean. It is more like a lake than the sea, it’s so flat.
The bush on the hills is like what I fell in love with on the West Coast. Dense, lush and vibrant. It is every shade of green you can imagine and full of textures. The sea looks green too, reflecting its vibrant colours.
It’s simply stunning.
It doesn’t take long before I start to find the kayaking challenging. I am using muscles that haven’t been used in a while and they are not that happy about being woken up. But I push through it. 1, 2. 1, 2. Finding my rhythm and focusing on the beauty around me. At one point we are accompanied by a school of small fish that skim across the water, their bodies flashing sliver in the light.
We pass gorgeous, sandy bays. Even in the rain on this grey and gloomy day, the sand glows golden. We rest for a while, in our kayaks with the golden beach as our back drop and Red tells us how the area became a national park. It was first opened on the 16th December, 1942, 300 years after Abel Tasman had first sailed these waters. The government had plans to build a coastal road through the area but Nelson resident and environmentalist Perrine Moncrieff collected 1000 signatures and petitioned the government to turn it into a National Park. This was declined, so she wrote a letter to the Queen of The Netherlands, inviting her to attend the opening of the park, signed from the government. The Queen agreed to attend and the NZ government then decided they’d better follow through, not wanting to admit ‘government documents’ had been forged, especially during a World War. I couldn’t find this version of the story on the internet, but that’s what we got told and I very much like this version.
We then head out to Adele Island, named after the wife of French explorer Dumont D’Urville, who mapped the area with incredible accuracy in the early 19th century. Adele Island is home to a colony of New Zealand fur seals (which apparently are actually sea lions) and we were able to watch them on the rocks for a while. At this time of year there were also pups which were very cute. They are too young to know how to swim, but in a month or 2, Red explains that they will be more confident with swimming and are very curious. They will swim right up to you and Red has even had one jump onto his kayak.
It’s time for lunch so we paddle over to Te Pukatea Bay. It’s a perfect little crescent bay, filled with golden sand. Its a shame about the weather. Red puts up a fly and we eat our lunch under the shelter. Despite the persistent rain and being soaked through, I hadn’t felt cold, until now. Once we stopped paddling, everyone in the group started to cool down so we didn’t wait long before jumping back into the kayaks.
The next bit of paddling is hard. It’s called The Mad Mile. This body of water is more exposed. Its choppy and a rather challenging paddle, but we make it through. Before long, we arrive at another beautiful bay, a crescent moon shape and it draws us in.
We have arrived at Bark Bay.
After unpacking all the gear and moving it up to the hut, I decide it’s time for a swim. It’s not great weather, but when am I going to be here again? I am going to make the most of my time in Abel Tasman National Park, whatever the weather. I am joined by 2 others and we head down to the beach for a dip. The water is surprising warm, but also very shallow. We go out so far but it doesn’t get deeper than my thigh. Still, that’s enough water to float around for a while.
We head back to the hut to get warm and dry and find platters of cheese, crackers, dips, chips, wine and beer! This is not camping like I’ve know it, we are far from ‘roughing it’. We gather around the table and spend time getting to know our fellow travelers better, including the ladies in the other tour group. (They took a water taxi to Bark Bay and then did a little kayak in the area) They are such a laugh. They are a group of women, brought together by a shared love of travelling. One of them put an ad in the local paper looking for travel companions 12 years ago and have since done trips all over the world together.
The rain eases off for a bit so Daniel and I head out on a recommended walk to a waterfall. The bush is beautiful. It is so lovely in the rain, all glistening and dewy. There is a bridge by the waterfall which makes for a good viewing point. The water is so clear. It’s not the most impressive waterfall, but it’s certainly nice to get out for a walk and enjoy a rare moment of the day when it is not raining.
Back at the hut, Kyle gathers us all to tell us the story of Abel Tasman discovering Aotearoa and his encounter with the local iwi. It happened in what was called Murderers Bay (now renamed Golden Bay) Through misunderstandings and cultural differences, the encounter didn’t go well. Abel Tasman only spent 5 days in New Zealand waters and never once set foot on this land, yet the whole area was named after him. Kyle’s stories of this land were fascinating and passionate. He really brought the history to life.
We share more stories as a group over a lovely dinner of chickpea curry, followed by pavlova. Yes pavlova! On a kayaking trip. Who would have thought!
We all head off to bed early. It’s been a long and physically demanding day. We are all very grateful to be in the hut tonight and not in a tent! I don’t sleep well at all though, sharing a room with so many people, it’s hot, noisy and not particularly comfy. But I do wake in the morning, so I must have slept for some of it.
Exploring the Long White Cloud 