Stepping back in time at Larnach Castle

It’s beautiful today, the rain has cleared, the sun is out and the air is still – perfect for our tour. We are collected from our hotel by Monarch Wildlife Cruises & Tours. Rob is our guide for the day. We will be heading out to the peninsula to explore Larnach Castle followed by a nature cruise to spot albatross and seals. It’s a private tour for us this morning – we are the only ones booked.

Our journey to the castle begins with a drive over the hills on the peninsula, with some impressive views of the inlet. Sunlight is catching the water and reflecting, making it look like a mirror. It’s such a perfectly still day. Rob has a wealth of knowledge of the area, which he happily shares with us on the drive.

We head down a long driveway surrounded by tall trees – I can’t wait to see the castle, it is the only one we have in New Zealand. Rob stops briefly to point out the old gates which were made from a whale’s jaw bone. I know whales are big, but when you see things like this, it really puts it into perspective!

Finally the forest driveway ends and there it is, standing in all its grandeur. What a sight.

Larnach Castle was built for William Larnach in the latter half of the 19th century and took 12 years to complete. The family and workers lived in tents on the land but after 4 years, they had had enough of tent life and moved in while it was still being built. It was never known as Larnach’s Castle to the family, but always referred to as ‘The Camp’.

We walk up the stairs, marveling at the impressive stone work. A pair of lions and an eagle statue guard the steep steps to the entrance.

We begin on the porch, a large, gloriously sunny room that has been closed in with windows. I would love to find a spot here to curl up in and read a book. Rob guides us through the castle, room by room, sharing stories and history of the castle, its furniture and residents.

While on the tour we visit the dining room, ladies parlor, bedrooms, breakfast room and more. Each room has its own stories to tell. There is so much detail everywhere, from the wooden carvings, to the chandeliers and tiled floors, not to mention all the beautiful furniture.

In one room, there is a photo of the Larnach family. Rob tells us about the dark history of Williams’ rise and fall, his 3 wives and his suicide. It’s a sad and tragic story. He was a hard worker and contributed a lot to the early development of Dunedin.

In the final part of our guided tour, we climb the steep and narrow spiral staircase up to the balcony of the turret and are rewarded with spectacular 360 degree views. We can see Dunedin City, right out across the peninsula. It’s breathtaking. After marveling at the views, we are given free time to wander around the gardens and explore on our own.

Today, the castle is owned by the Barker Family, who purchased the property in 1967. It was in a terrible state and the family have worked tirelessly to bring it back to its former glory. This includes purchasing back original pieces of furniture when they can. Larnach Castle is a fascinating place to explore.

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