Tag: Yasawa

Finding Fiji Time

On By exploringthelongwhitecloudIn FijiLeave a comment

Waking up with the daylight is a lovely way to start the morning. I enjoy connecting with the earth’s natural patterns, something that is lost in the city. I throw on a dress and walk barefoot down to Sunrise Beach to welcome in the day. I’m surprised to be the only one here. I dig my toes into the deliciously soft, golden sand and let the waves roll in over my feet.

The day is still and quiet, the morning colours soft. The clouds are painted in golds and pink from the sun rays casting out from behind the distant islands. Little silver fish dart about in the clear water. And I am the only one here to see it.

When the sun is fully up, I head back towards the dive shop and bump into Filo (the marine biologist I met yesterday) She has the drone out and is heading to Manta Beach to see how many manta there are and to try and ID them. Each manta has its own unique marking, like how zebras and giraffes each have their own unique stripes and spots.

I sit on the beach with Filo, watching the drone screen, trying to spot the manta. They are little black dots on a screen, but Filo has a great eye for spotting them. From the air, they look a bit like the batman symbol. Filo is able to fly the drone close and zoom in. This enables her to see the markings and ID the manta. The two manta we saw yesterday are back again. Champs, a black and white chevron manta and Ember, a fully black, melanism manta. Both are females.

Champs has the most beautiful markings. I saw her yesterday in the water, but seeing her from above, I can really appreciate her colouring. Filo shows me some drone footage from yesterday of Champs doing somersaults, turning in the water to feed. What spectacular creatures.

When the guests arrive out on the water for their swim, Filo is able to use the drone to signal to the drivers where the mantas are. It is a very well run operation that respects and cares for the manta and gives guests an amazing opportunity to get up close to these beautiful creatures.

My stomach tells me it’s breakfast time so I head over to the dining room. Just as I arrive, Daniel appears too. Over another delicious tropical breakfast, we talk about our plans for the day. Yesterday was very active, so we decide to take it easy today.

After a leisurely breakfast, we head out for a kayak. They have several kayaks at the resort, but with 3 beaches, the tricky part is finding them, of course they were on the last beach we visited! We launch the kayaks and head out. Initially we head towards the left, but the waves are quite strong so we head to the right where it’s a bit more sheltered. This takes us right through manta passage and around to Sunrise Beach. One of the great things about having 3 beaches on the island is if it’s a bit windy on one side, it’s usually a lot calmer on the other, so you are able to escape the wind.

It’s a pretty overcast day, warm, but grey. It’s nice kayaking weather. The water is so incredibly clear. It’s deep and a bit choppy, but I can still see so much colour below. We are paddling around the island, but out past the point, it gets really choppy, so we decide to head back to shore. I manage to stay pretty dry but right at the end, a wave comes up and over the kayak and I am soaked. Such fun though.

After a trip to the bar, it’s time to relax in the hammock with a book and find Fiji Time. The birds are chirping, the soothing sound of the ocean is right by me, bliss.

Then Cookie appears, she is the resident parrot that was rescued from the black market. We have seen her around, but not up close. She wanders around and Daniel and I quietly follow her. Next minute, Daniel is lying in the sand right next to her, taking photos. She is quite interested in the camera strap and goes up close to have a look.

Now I have the camera, I find a place to sit quietly in the grass and Cookie comes running over. I put out a finger and she jumps on, running up my arm to my shoulder so she can check out the camera again. It’s a special moment.

Most of the afternoon is spent in the hammock, it’s a holiday after all! I usually plan quiet full itineraries, but today is wonderfully slow and it feels indulgent.

After a long stint in the hammock, I have a wander on the beach and look for crabs. It’s low tide, so the rocks are quite exposed. All around me I hear scuttling sounds and see quick movements out of the corner of my eyes. I want to have a crab race so I find my first competitor, Caesar. He is brave, curious and ready to race. But I can’t find an equally matched competitor. The others just hide in their shell. So I settle with taking some photos of Caesar and then return him to the rocks.

Late afternoon, we decide to head out for a snorkel. As it’s low tide, we can’t go out at Sunset Beach. However, on Sunrise Beach, there is a channel through the coral so you can snorkel there at any time of the day. The water is noticeably colder today, but once we are in, it’s OK. The reef edge is much closer to shore at Sunrise Beach and once again we are in foreign lands, exploring the underwater gardens. On this snorkel we see some quite large butterfish and a school of parrot fish.

Dinner is quite the event tonight, there was a group celebrating a milestone birthday. When the music starts, they get up and dance. Everyone is joining in with the singing and clapping. The dining room gets very loud and festive. A great end to a great day.

The Fiji I’d been dreaming of

On By exploringthelongwhitecloudIn Fiji, InternationalLeave a comment

Another day in paradise where skies are bright blue and summer clothes are fine all day long. Waves are crashing right next door and city noise is drowned out by bird song. We have an early start, catching a transfer bus to Port Denarau so we can take a catamaran out to the Yasawas.

Other Island holiday makers join us in waiting for the bus and I start to become aware of how light we actually travel. Our suitcase is by far the smallest, only slightly bigger than cabin luggage size, and we are sharing it between 2 people! I don’t think I could even fill a standard size suitcase if I tried. I love travelling light!

The bus arrives and zips us off to Port Denarau. It’s like stepping into a different world here. Entering through the gates you are greeted with beautifully manicured gardens, perfectly green golf lawns, stunning marina and fancy shops. It is super touristy, and while it’s lovely, it doesn’t feel like the ‘real Fiji’. I am pleased we had time in Nadi to experience the real Viti Levu. (Although if we were staying here, I probably wouldn’t complain about it, it’s pretty nice!)

It’s deliciously warm today with a gentle breeze. At the port we have a leisurely 30 minutes to get some breakfast and soak up the surroundings, before getting the call to board the Yasawa Flyer.

The catamaran is large, carrying lots of travelers heading to different islands across the Mamanuca and Yasawa Island chains. The horn sounds and we are off. We cruise through the water, it takes no time to leave the brown ‘industrial’ sea water behind us and venture out into the blue.

We reach the first stop quickly, South Sea Island. Lots of passengers depart. This is a popular island for day trippers as it’s only half an hour from the mainland. I head out on deck and get my first of many views of a postcard perfect island, with lush greenery and golden sand, nestled into aquamarine coloured water. It’s deep where we have stopped, but I can still see fish below the surface, their little silver bodies flashing in the light. I stand on the bow, wind whipping through my hair, looking out at the bright blue ocean and sky with little islands dotted about. This is the Fiji I have been dreaming about. I feel so light and free.

We make a few more stops at various Mamanuca islands before reaching Kuata, known as the Gateway to the Yasawas. We are welcomed to this area by a warrior in traditional dress, dancing up on a rock. Travelling further on, I notice quite a distinct difference between the Islands. The Mamanuca islands appear to be relatively flat sand bars with palm trees in the middle, but the Yasawas, they are mountainous, rocky, Jurassic park looking landscapes, they command attention among the vast blue ocean. I’m glad we are staying out here, it feels so rustic and untouched.

After nearly 3 hours of cruising, we arrive at Bare Foot Manta. A 3 minute cruise in a long boat has us pulling right up onto Landing Beach. The long boat travels slowly as it’s low tide and there is lots of coral. Staff are there to welcome us and greet us with song. We step off the boat, right into the water and walk up the beautifully golden sand. We are led up to the dining area and presented with a fresh coconut water drink.

Lunch is very colorful and tasty, served and eaten al fresco. Paradise.

We are then shown to our bure, it’s very close to the dining area, but they have done a good job of making it private. Our bure is a safari style tent, with a private outdoor bathroom. A hammock and sun chair out front call to us to settle in and find Island time. The bed is decorated with fresh flowers and Sunset Beach is right on our front door. Home for the next 3 nights.

Later in the afternoon, we meet up with Rob, the onsite marine biologist, for orientation. He talks to us about the manta rays that swim through the channel here and Cookie the parrot. We are then taken to the 3 beaches, Sunset Beach, Manta Beach and Sunrise Beach and Rob explains which beaches are good for snorkeling at what times. Lastly we are shown to the dive shop where we are able to borrow gear and book activities. I am so pleased our booking got sorted and we were able to stay here.

We decide to get right into it, so after orientation, we borrow mask and snorkel and head out to explore. Daniel is stoked to find they have prescription masks he can use. It’s high tide so we decide to snorkel at Sunset Beach. The water needs to be high here to explore and we were told at orientation that 300m or so out the coral is amazing. Daniel is keen, I am a little nervous. I have a big fear of sharks, but I am going to give it a go. I go out a little way, fit the fins and snorkel, then take the plunge. I spent a few minutes adjusting to breathing through a snorkel, then I’m off. Initially I am just seeing seaweed and little silver fish, this then turns into brown broken coral and a few colourful fish. But the further out we go, the more amazing it gets!

I’m in an underwater garden that’s in full bloom. Brain like coral, spiky coral, ones with blue tips, purple coral, big flat sheets of coral, it’s all here and I am right among it. And the fish! So many colours, shapes and sizes. It’s truly marvelous. We then see a very unusual looking fish off to the side. It’s quite large and brown in colour with a squarish looking head. We will have to try and look it up later to see what it is.

We are now quite a long way out, but it’s still shallow because of the reef. I have been assured that it’s very unlikely I will see a shark, but if I do, it will be a reef shark and it’s considered lucky to see one. I would be quite happy to continue snorkeling around where we are, but Daniel has zoomed off so I decide to be brave and follow him.

I see the edge of the reef approaching, I am not quite ready for this, so I hang back a while and just watch the fish. I see yellow ones, bright blue fish, black & white striped and fluorescent coloured parrot fish. Daniel is right out at the edge of the reef and I decide to slowly swim out and join him. The reef drops off into a blue abyss. It’s magical.

As we head back to shore, the rest of the coral looks boring in comparison to what we have just seen. We quickly dry off and change into some clothes, then head off to hear one of the biologists talk about manta rays. After a late afternoon nap, we head over to the dive shop. We have booked in for an evening snorkel. Unfortunately the sea is a bit too rough and for safety reasons, they will not be going out tonight. We will try again tomorrow. Instead, we opt for a cocktail at the bar followed by a yummy meal.

I end the evening with a shower under the stars in our private outdoor bathroom. We go to sleep with the tent door open, listening to the ocean, the gentle rhythm of the waves and our new little friend George the gecko who is scuttling around on the ceiling. This is the Fiji I’ve been dreaming of.