Kunekune’s, Kakariki’s and Bioluminescent Water


Day 2 of my holiday and my alarm goes off at 7am. I am instantly regretting that decision. But 10 minutes later, when I am standing on a paddle board in the middle of The Sounds on mirror flat water, best decision ever!

No one is around, I have the inlet to myself. I paddle out a way, stop, close my eyes and just listen. Birds singing, water lapping and that’s it. Places like this always make me want to move out of the city.

I am heading to the other side of the inlet, I was told there is a nesting shag colony. I stand on my paddleboard looking up at them, they are watching me to, especially the mama birds, they are keeping a close eye on me. Little fluffy chicks are perched up high in their nests. Then I look at the water below me. Crystal clear. I love to just watch in places like this. What initially may look like water and rocks starts to come alive the longer you linger. Sea cucumbers are the first thing I notice, then tiny fish darting about. Starfish and Kina are there too. Life is all around us.

I am back at the shore by 8am and already the wind is starting to pick up a bit. Early is definitely the best time to go. I think I will do another early morning trip while I am here. I read there is a point where the seals like to hang out at. That could be fun.

Lochmara has an underwater observatory. A semi submerged boat with glass windows so you can become part of the underwater world. The tour begins at the shore with stingray feeding and some hungry shags.

Lochmara used to have about 15 short tail stringray that had been trained for hand feeding. In Feburary, a pod of hungry orca visited the inlet and ate all their trained stingray. There are a couple of new stringray that they are now trying to train. The are such graceful creatures. Our tour is with a marine biologist who is able to share some facts about the stingray. Such as their size. They can grow up to 2 meters wide and 4 meters long!! The short tail stingray are one of the largest species of stingray. The one she is feeding today must be young. It’s big, but nowhere near that big. The sting that they have on their tail takes a very long time to regrow, so if they use it, it leaves them very vulnerable without any means for defense. For this reason, if the choice is between fight or flight, they will choose flight. The only time they would really sting a human is if you stand on them (you can avoid this by shuffling your feet in the sand) or if you interfered with them.

We then move onto the touch pond. Its an educational place and the children in the group are having a blast, picking up starfish, seaweed and hermit crabs. There are even a couple of seahorses in there (not allowed to touch them) but I use my gopro to film them. Like the stingray, they are very graceful and seem to be quite shy creatures.

We head onto the boat and down below the deck. We are transported into a marine world. Fish are everywhere and the shags are diving down swimming past the windows. I see lobsters and a moon jellyfish. Jellyfish are really interesting to watch. These particular ones sting, but their stingers are too small to pierce human skin so we don’t need to worry about getting stung by them. Its a whole other world down there and rather fascinating to watch!

After lunch I head out to see the animals being fed. Lochmara has a variety of animals on site as well as a rehabilitation center. The have some breeding programs and are able to educate visitors about the different animals. First up is the Kunekune pigs and they are hungry. They are incredibly messy eaters, they loose their teeth as they get older so their tongue hangs out the side while they are chowing down the food. A cheeky, brave Weka sneaks in to quickly grab some of the food scraps. Having the pigs helps with the waste management. Anything that can be fed to the pigs is. There is no waste disposal here so rubbish has to be shipped out.

Next up is the eels but they aren’t hungry. Our guide said they are pretty spoilt. They get fed blue cod but if they don’t think it’s fresh enough, they wont eat it and just wait for the next day. They are quite fascinating creatures. There are 2 varieties, the long fin eel and the short fin eel. They look very similar but the difference is important. There are not a lot of long fine eels. They can live up to 100 years or more and only breed once in their lifetime. They swim all the way to Tonga to breed, then the babies drift all the way back to New Zealand. I also learnt that eels can survive out of water for 3 days, so long as their skin stays wet. They can climb waterfalls that are 20 meters and jump 10 meters high. So, as our guide points out, if they wanted to leave the pond they are in, there is nothing stopping them.

Last up is the Kakariki. Our little native parrot with bright green feathers that look a bit like moss. They have a red crest on their head and blue tones in their wings. They are pretty little birds that make quite a loud screeching sound. We are given some bird seed in our hands and the Kakariki waste no time landing on our palms to feed. The first one that lands in my hand starts flicking off all the seed. It’s looking for the sunflower seeds. I really enjoyed this experience. It’s special to be able to get so close to them. One even lands on my head.

I decide to escape the day crowds and go for a bit of a wander around the place, there is lots to discover and explore. I come across some lamas, sheep and goat grazing in the grass. There are ‘Punga People’ carvings done into trees, a lizard inn, ‘Crumpy’s Camp’, a replica of an early bushman’s lodge and lots of signs that tell you about all the different flora and fauna. It’s an educational walk. Higher up, I come to the observatory. An open grassy area with hammocks. It would be a great place for star gazing. But also pretty good for an afternoon nap which is what I do.

After dark I head out again down to the bay. There is bioluminesence in the water. It’s too cold for me to be tempted to go for a swim so I grab a kayak paddle and move it about in the water and watch it sparkle in the night. I have never seen anything like this before.

Isn’t nature amazing?

Ticking off the Bucket List – part 2

We are dropped back off at the lodge and spend some time sitting out on the front porch, drinking pinot, with some home made shortbread, looking out at the ocean, watching the day become night. I do enjoy living in the city, but the peacefulness of being out in the country is rejuvenating.

Pre-drinks and canapes are being served at 6:30pm so I decide to go for a quick swim before dinner. Unfortunately for me, the heating system is broken so the water is a little chilly. Not nearly as freezing as the ‘plunge pool’ in Queenstown, but cool enough that it takes me a while to actually get in.

The pool room is a tropical oasis (except maybe for the water temperature) It is next to a courtyard filled with tall trees and citrus fruits. The ceiling is glass and I swim a few laps (or should I say float awkwardly around with a pool noodle) looking up at the sky.

Time for drinks and canapes. We get dressed up and walk over to the lodge. The walkway is lit up and the lodge looks very grand. We take a seat and give our drink orders. Wharekauhau have their own Gin called Lighthouse, made with natural spring water taken straight from the grounds at the lodge. I have never tried a G&T so I decide now is the time to give it a go. It’s quite a refreshing drink and I am a fan.

We are served several delectable morsels of food while chatting to the hosts who are naturally some of the friendliest people I have met. We are then seated in the dining room ready for our 4 course Trust the Chef culinary experience. The food was all amazing. I am a vegetarian and I am always wowed by how they can serve a meat meal to Daniel and a vegetarian meal to me and have them still looking the same. When they served my main course I double checked that it is in fact vegetarian, as my egg plant looks so much like a lamb steak. While I am not usually a big fan of eggplant, this is delicious.

All the guests are chattering away and a lovely elderly couple make their way around all the tables, introducing themselves and getting to know everyone. They even start a couple of rounds of ‘happy birthday’ for some of the guests. They were meant to be on a Mississippi River Cruise celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary, but as we all know, travel plans this year have been turned upside down. I think Wharekauhau was a great choice.

We head back to our cottage to find our free mini bar restocked and a chocolate truffle beside the bed. Yum. I could get used to this service.

Its a cool night, but it also means that it is a clear night and the sky is lit with stars. Wrapped in a blanket with lantern and camera in hand, I take my chair out into the night to sit and stare at the stars. This time I manage a somewhat OK photo of the night sky. It really doesn’t do it justice, but if I keep practicing, I might be able to take some great astro photography shots one day.

Its getting late so I head back inside to find Daniel stretched out on the couch in front of the gas fire, fast asleep. He assured me he would be wide awake to watch the MotoGP live, but sleep has won him over. I on the other hand want to make the most of our 1 night stay, so at around midnight, I run a bath filled with bath salts. Its right next to the window so I can soak in the bath while gazing at the stars.

Finally sleep wins me over and I take myself off to bed listening to the soothing sounds of the mighty ocean near by.

The morning arrives and our time hear is drawing to an end. We do have a late checkout though so while Daniel sleeps I make myself a peppermint tea to sip in the sun while I read my book. We make our way to the conservatory for breakfast. I love porridge. I know, it’s one of the cheapest, easiest meals to make, but I love it. And so I ordered it. Smooth and creamy, topped with nuts and poached pears from the garden, it hits the spot.

We have a quick game of croquet before it’s time to put on our gear and pack up the bike. At check out we are given a (rather large) bottle of their Lighthouse Gin to take home. Our bags are full but I manage to make room.

It’s time to say goodbye to this Grand Olde Lady. She is full of charm, decadence and warm hospitality. I hope we will return one day.

Speeding up the Shotover River

Queenstown, known as New Zealand’s ‘Adventure Capital’ has no shortage of activities for thrill seekers.

I don’t like heights and I am certainly not an adrenaline junkie but a jet boat ride on the iconic Shotover river is a thrill I was keen to experience.

There are several different tour companies offering jet boat rides in Queenstown, needless to say, I did my research.

We did our tour with Skippers Canyon Jet. It is one of the more expensive tours (I did manage to get it on sale) but I would consider it the best value for money. The other jet boat tours are just that, 20 – 30 minutes on the jet boat. With Skippers Canyon Jet, you are driven out to the Upper Shotover river though some absolutely stunning scenery. The whole tour lasts around 2.5-3 hours.

We are picked up from the center of town in a 4-wheel drive by our guide Willie. Willie has grown up in the area and during the 1 hour journey to the jet boat he shares his wealth of knowledge with us about the land, the people and the history.

In 1862, Thomas Arthur found the first gold at Arthurs Point on the Shotover River. 2 months later, 4000 gold miners had flocked to the area seeking their fortunes. The Shotover is one of the richest gold bearing rivers in the world and it was mined up until 1992.

At Skippers Road we make a quick stop so that Willie can put chains on the wheels.

Not a bad place to stop.

Uninterrupted views out over Queenstown.

Incredible.

There is plenty of snow to play in but I am regretting my footwear choice. Even with 2 pairs of socks, my canvas shoes let in all the cold.

I’m a snow rookie. But it doesn’t stop the child in me from reaching out and grabbing a handful of snow. I have never felt fresh snow before. I am so astonished at how powdery and soft it is, I insist that Daniel has to also pick some up.

Our 4 wheel drive adventure takes us past snow lined roads with winter bare trees. We weave our way along a narrow windy road with very steep drops. There are moments where my stomach churns. I find myself shifting my weight in my seat – as if I can counterbalance us rolling off the road should a wheel slip off the edge. Astonishingly, the speed limit here is 100kmh, although I am sure anything about 30kmh is asking for trouble.

We pass through Hell’s gate, a pathway through large rock that was made by hand drilling and explosives. Hand drilling! I can’t even imagine how painstakingly challenging that must have been. The rock face at Hell’s Gate is gorgeous though, covered in all its icy stalactites.

We arrive at the Upper Shotover River and get prepared for our jet boat ride. We are provided with life jackets, beanies and gloves. Kitted out and ready to go, we get into the boat. I am pleased to discover that the handrail in the boat is heated.

It’s pretty cold down here in the valley.

It’s even colder once we get moving, I mean teeth chattering cold! I am shrunk down into my scarf as far as I can go to stop my face from going numb. A word of advise, if you don’t wear glasses, make sure you bring sunglasses to wear. The combination of the cold and speed makes it virtually impossible to keep your eyes open without some form of protection!

We speed up the river through narrow canyons and beautiful scenery. Reaching speeds of 80kmh, the ride is thrilling. We approach many cliffs at great speed, you think you are going to collide and then the boat makes a quick turn. The jet boat twists and maneuvers so swiftly.

We even do a few 360’s.

Back on land, we start the journey home with a couple more scenic stops along the way.

It’s been a great afternoon.