Coral Planting & Snorkeling Safari

Barefoot Manta Island Resort run a range of daily tours and activities for guests. There is one that has caught our eye, which is the full day conservation project, so we book ourselves in. It begins with a classroom style lesson, taken by Filo, one of the Marine Biologists on the island. For the next hour and a half, we learn all about the local fish and coral found in the waters here. There is also the opportunity to ask her many questions. Like, what was that popping sound I could hear in the water this morning and what was the mystery fish we saw yesterday? We give Filo a terrible description, ‘it was sort of light brown with spots and really round, but it had a box shaped head, like it had swam into a wall’. Filo flicked through a fish book and managed to find our mysterious friend. It was a porcupine fish that we saw yesterday.

It’s such an interesting class, we learn so much about coral. Such as, it’s actually an animal, not a plant. On the table there are examples of different types of corals. Branch coral, Boulder coral, Mushroom, Bushy and Brain coral. The Boulder coral is very slow growing, only a few millimeters per year. The ones mentioned are hard corals, but there are also soft corals. We learn about what coral eats, how it reproduces and what damages it. The Crown of Thorns Starfish is a big killer of coral. It feeds off it and kills the coral polyps.

We also learn that coral is related to jellyfish, they have stinging cells which are used as a defence mechanism. This isn’t the cause of infection when you get cut by it though, this is caused by the bacteria in it. We also learn about the different fish groups, their characteristics and how the reef and the fish interact.

After a great lesson, we head out in the boat to do some coral planting. I have to say, this sounds a lot cooler than it was. Filo would find bits of coral that had broken off and was starting to die. She would then give it to us to plant in the ocean bed. You do this by wedging it into cracks in rocks so it’s pointing the right way and can get sunlight. It then fuses to the rock and begins to grow.

I found this really challenging. Although it wasn’t very deep, trying to dive down to the bottom and hold my breath long enough to put the coral in place was hard. I did manage to plant a few though. Daniel handed me a piece to hold for him while he planted another. While I am waiting, I feel something brush the inside of my hand. When I take a closer look I see a little crab has made its home in this piece. We make sure we plant this one next.

While out in the water, we also see a moray eel, it has its head poking out of a hole, looking rather grumpy! We make sure we don’t get too close. We see lots of fish too, from clownfish to parrot fish to angelfish, but my favourite are the little blue damselfish. They stay close to their coral, Filo had told us this morning that they are very territorial. The reef is such a fascinating place, such a delicate, balanced ecosystem.

After lunch, we have a bit of a rest outside our bure in the hammock. The air is warm and filled with Island vibes. The afternoon class begins with some crafts. Filo gets out the paint and we are challenged to paint something that has stood out to us while snorkeling. Daniel paints (quite well) the porcupine fish and I do a very amateur painting of the damselfish in the coral. I found their bright blue colouring captivating and the way they hugged the coral protecting their home really interesting to watch. Filo is there to answer any questions of course and also gives us a pop quiz, which unfortunately, I don’t do very well at.

For the last part of the day, we get kitted up with masks, snorkels and fins for a snorkeling safari. We get on the boat which takes us out to Reef Escape, which is a well known dive spot. Wow, what a beautiful underwater garden. Upon first sight, the coral just looks like a lot of different shades of brown and beige, but as my eyes adjust, the colours start to come through. Blue tips, mauve, green, white, yellow, orange, it’s subtle but so pretty.

There is coral of all shapes, sizes and textures. We also see some magnificent examples of the corals we learnt about this morning. Filo even spots a fire coral which she points out. Like the name suggests, this isn’t one you want to touch. Some are brightly coloured, but this particular one is a dirty cream colour. There is lots of table coral here, one that we had been told about, but they didn’t have an example of it in the classroom. We also see lots of soft corals, they sway about in the current like hair dancing about in a breeze.

Because of the coral, most of the time, the water feels pretty shallow, but every now and again there are some big breaks in it and I realise how deep it actually is. Again, I am surprised (and so pleased) at how calm I feel. I have a very big fear of sharks and being in open water like this is not something I would normally do. But this is an opportunity of a lifetime and not something I am going to miss out on. I am feeling pretty proud of myself for being so brave. There are lots of fish around, but I am not really paying much attention to them, the coral is certainly the standout here.

It has been such an incredible day, but I am pleased to be getting in the boat to head back. We have done 3 snorkeling trips today and it has really drained us. Once back on land, I decide it’s cocktail o’clock and grab a drink from the bar to enjoy down on Sunset Beach, watching the last of the wonderfully warm rays slip behind the clouds.

I head over to dinner, in bare feet, wearing a simple sundress thrown over the top of my swimsuit. I love that I can do this and not look out of place. It’s not a big flashy resort, guests don’t get dressed up for dinner. We are here for authentic experiences and that’s what Barefoot Manta delivers.

The Fiji I’d been dreaming of

Another day in paradise where skies are bright blue and summer clothes are fine all day long. Waves are crashing right next door and city noise is drowned out by bird song. We have an early start, catching a transfer bus to Port Denarau so we can take a catamaran out to the Yasawas.

Other Island holiday makers join us in waiting for the bus and I start to become aware of how light we actually travel. Our suitcase is by far the smallest, only slightly bigger than cabin luggage size, and we are sharing it between 2 people! I don’t think I could even fill a standard size suitcase if I tried. I love travelling light!

The bus arrives and zips us off to Port Denarau. It’s like stepping into a different world here. Entering through the gates you are greeted with beautifully manicured gardens, perfectly green golf lawns, stunning marina and fancy shops. It is super touristy, and while it’s lovely, it doesn’t feel like the ‘real Fiji’. I am pleased we had time in Nadi to experience the real Viti Levu. (Although if we were staying here, I probably wouldn’t complain about it, it’s pretty nice!)

It’s deliciously warm today with a gentle breeze. At the port we have a leisurely 30 minutes to get some breakfast and soak up the surroundings, before getting the call to board the Yasawa Flyer.

The catamaran is large, carrying lots of travelers heading to different islands across the Mamanuca and Yasawa Island chains. The horn sounds and we are off. We cruise through the water, it takes no time to leave the brown ‘industrial’ sea water behind us and venture out into the blue.

We reach the first stop quickly, South Sea Island. Lots of passengers depart. This is a popular island for day trippers as it’s only half an hour from the mainland. I head out on deck and get my first of many views of a postcard perfect island, with lush greenery and golden sand, nestled into aquamarine coloured water. It’s deep where we have stopped, but I can still see fish below the surface, their little silver bodies flashing in the light. I stand on the bow, wind whipping through my hair, looking out at the bright blue ocean and sky with little islands dotted about. This is the Fiji I have been dreaming about. I feel so light and free.

We make a few more stops at various Mamanuca islands before reaching Kuata, known as the Gateway to the Yasawas. We are welcomed to this area by a warrior in traditional dress, dancing up on a rock. Travelling further on, I notice quite a distinct difference between the Islands. The Mamanuca islands appear to be relatively flat sand bars with palm trees in the middle, but the Yasawas, they are mountainous, rocky, Jurassic park looking landscapes, they command attention among the vast blue ocean. I’m glad we are staying out here, it feels so rustic and untouched.

After nearly 3 hours of cruising, we arrive at Bare Foot Manta. A 3 minute cruise in a long boat has us pulling right up onto Landing Beach. The long boat travels slowly as it’s low tide and there is lots of coral. Staff are there to welcome us and greet us with song. We step off the boat, right into the water and walk up the beautifully golden sand. We are led up to the dining area and presented with a fresh coconut water drink.

Lunch is very colorful and tasty, served and eaten al fresco. Paradise.

We are then shown to our bure, it’s very close to the dining area, but they have done a good job of making it private. Our bure is a safari style tent, with a private outdoor bathroom. A hammock and sun chair out front call to us to settle in and find Island time. The bed is decorated with fresh flowers and Sunset Beach is right on our front door. Home for the next 3 nights.

Later in the afternoon, we meet up with Rob, the onsite marine biologist, for orientation. He talks to us about the manta rays that swim through the channel here and Cookie the parrot. We are then taken to the 3 beaches, Sunset Beach, Manta Beach and Sunrise Beach and Rob explains which beaches are good for snorkeling at what times. Lastly we are shown to the dive shop where we are able to borrow gear and book activities. I am so pleased our booking got sorted and we were able to stay here.

We decide to get right into it, so after orientation, we borrow mask and snorkel and head out to explore. Daniel is stoked to find they have prescription masks he can use. It’s high tide so we decide to snorkel at Sunset Beach. The water needs to be high here to explore and we were told at orientation that 300m or so out the coral is amazing. Daniel is keen, I am a little nervous. I have a big fear of sharks, but I am going to give it a go. I go out a little way, fit the fins and snorkel, then take the plunge. I spent a few minutes adjusting to breathing through a snorkel, then I’m off. Initially I am just seeing seaweed and little silver fish, this then turns into brown broken coral and a few colourful fish. But the further out we go, the more amazing it gets!

I’m in an underwater garden that’s in full bloom. Brain like coral, spiky coral, ones with blue tips, purple coral, big flat sheets of coral, it’s all here and I am right among it. And the fish! So many colours, shapes and sizes. It’s truly marvelous. We then see a very unusual looking fish off to the side. It’s quite large and brown in colour with a squarish looking head. We will have to try and look it up later to see what it is.

We are now quite a long way out, but it’s still shallow because of the reef. I have been assured that it’s very unlikely I will see a shark, but if I do, it will be a reef shark and it’s considered lucky to see one. I would be quite happy to continue snorkeling around where we are, but Daniel has zoomed off so I decide to be brave and follow him.

I see the edge of the reef approaching, I am not quite ready for this, so I hang back a while and just watch the fish. I see yellow ones, bright blue fish, black & white striped and fluorescent coloured parrot fish. Daniel is right out at the edge of the reef and I decide to slowly swim out and join him. The reef drops off into a blue abyss. It’s magical.

As we head back to shore, the rest of the coral looks boring in comparison to what we have just seen. We quickly dry off and change into some clothes, then head off to hear one of the biologists talk about manta rays. After a late afternoon nap, we head over to the dive shop. We have booked in for an evening snorkel. Unfortunately the sea is a bit too rough and for safety reasons, they will not be going out tonight. We will try again tomorrow. Instead, we opt for a cocktail at the bar followed by a yummy meal.

I end the evening with a shower under the stars in our private outdoor bathroom. We go to sleep with the tent door open, listening to the ocean, the gentle rhythm of the waves and our new little friend George the gecko who is scuttling around on the ceiling. This is the Fiji I’ve been dreaming of.