Exploring Patuna Chasm

This particular Sunday morning started even earlier than on a work day. Our alarm sounds at 6:15 and by 6:50am we are out the door. The day hasn’t woken yet, it’s still quite dark and the birds are only just starting their dawn chorus. As we head along the motorway we start to see a dash of blush, peeking out from behind the hills. A little early morning mist clings to the land. We are watching the day wake up and it’s beautiful.

Today we are doing a walk at Patuna Chasm. It’s been on my bucket list for about 3 years. Finally we are doing it. Patuna Chasm is in the Wairarapa on private land so you have to book, and it’s popular. It’s also only open over the warmer months of the year, which is why it has taken us so long to do this.

We are on the first walk this morning, departing at 8:30am and are joined by my mother & father in law. We arrive and get ready, it’s a wet walk, some of it being through a river, so we change our clothes and shoes into ones we are happy to get wet and I make sure my phone is in a snap lock bag. Before beginning the walk we read through the safety signs. It mentions that in some parts the river is 1m deep and more. I knew it was a wet walk, but I didn’t realises it was that deep. This is going to be fun. And cold.

We depart punctually at 8:30am on the back of a trailer fitted with chairs. The seats are all wet, probably from the dew last night and I have a very wet bottom before we even enter the water. It’s a bumpy drive out to the start of the walk. I am fortunate not to suffer from motion sickness and actually really enjoy this type of travel. Our driver manages to navigate some pretty tight bends and after about 20 minutes we arrive at the start of the walk. After a bit of a safety briefing we are off.

Around 16 – 18 people are in this group, but we pretty quickly all find our own pace and spread out. The first part of the walk is through native bush. When I picture native bush, this isn’t what I imagine, it’s quite scrubby, but native bush is exactly what it is – manuka, kawakawa and ferns. The bush is peaceful, void of city noises. I can hear cicadas, magpies, running water and the odd bleat from some sheep.

The first part of the track is quite muddy and slippery. I take care not to fall over, while Daniel goes out of his way to slide in it, doing some mud surfing. The track then leads into a steep incline. I am actually surprised how well I manage it. I’m not huffing and puffing to the same extent as usual when I reach the top. We walk along the ridge for a bit before coming to a huge limestone rock that has it’s centre worn away. It looks like a big wave and is very impressive. The rock is smooth and super fascinating, a great place to get some photos.

A little further on and we begin to descend into the chasm. There is a rope to help us abseil down the bank.

When we get closer to the river I notice an old fossilised shell embedded into the rock. I find it fascinating at how much detail is in it and thinking about how many thousands, millions of years it might have been there.

It’s now time to enter the water. The wet part of the walk has begun. The first moment it feels freezing and I wonder how I am going to manage walking in this cold water, waist deep, but after a minute or so it doesn’t feel so bad (probably because I have gone a bit numb.) We walk up the river going slowly, navigating the rocks, some of which are quite slippery. Taking small steps is key. We see the huge rocks of the chasm, washed smoothed, shaped by the flow of water over many years. The rock face in some areas is engulfed in vibrant green moss with water droplets glistening in the light. It is simply beautiful.

It’s not too long before we approach a waterfall. Water pouring down over the rock face and moss in tiers, fanning out into the pool below. The photos don’t do it justice. My mother in law offers to take some photos of me next to the waterfall so I head out, but next minute, without even thinking, I just go and stand right under it. The water is very fresh, but so magical. And I just stand there, getting completely drenched under a spray of cool water.

I feel very alive after that and we carry on with our walk. This time we are going back down the river, towards where we first entered the water and then carry on past it to do the rest of the walk. For most of the walk, the water is below my knee, but one part gets very deep. The rest of my group decide to get out of the water and find a way around the side, but you know me, I just swim through it. I am totally soaked, from the neck down, but I’m loving it. We get one beautiful, precious life and I find moments like this, getting wet, taking the ‘road less traveled’ is what makes life so sweet for me.

We are lucky to have such a perfect weather day. There is no wind and in the patches where the sun manages to break through into the chasm, it’s quite warm. I imagine it could be a very cold walk on some days. We then approach the part of the walk where it starts to close in and get dark. We were told by our guide at the start that it would, and he assured us it was the right way. Just as we start to enter it, there is a big hole in the rock above and light floods in. It’s so bright it kind of hurts my eyes. I also find that the darkness of the chasm and the brightness from above intensifies the colours of the forest canopy. There are so many different vibrant shades of green.

Further in, there is a spot where the only light is coming from some cracks in the rocks above. This is such a unique experience and quite an adventure.

We finally make it to the end of the walk and climb out. We need to walk along the river bank for a while before heading up to the collection point. But there is also an optional swim add on, it brings you out further up the river and then you just walk back along the farmland to the collection point. No one in my group wanted to do this so I begin following them on land, but looking down at the group that has decided to do the add on swim, I just keep thinking, I’m missing out. And so, I join them.

Most of this last part is in water below my knee and we walk through another little cave. This one has some pigeons in it and their soft cooing is echoed around inside. Beautiful. The last part of the walk is where you have to swim. Well, you can walk, it was probably up to my shoulders, but I chose to swim, and it was excellent. I’m glad I listened to my gut that said, go do the swim.

Back at the collection point I enjoy the warmth of the sun on my skin and wet clothes while we wait to be picked up. The drive on the back of the trailer is cold. The combination of wind and wet clothes is chilly, but I remind myself, it’s only temporary and once back at the car park I am in warm dry clothes in no time.

We then make our way to Featherston for one of the biggest burgers I have had from Vixen. Delicious. And it certainly satisfies the hunger created on this walk. Their fries are pretty good too.

Its a challenging walk, the rocks were quite slippery in places and the water deep at times, but if you take it slowly and absorb your surroundings, I am sure you will see it for the adventure it is. You will spend the majority of the walk in the water, I timed about 50 minutes on land and about 1 3/4 hours in the river.

Lobster krill anyone? E-Ko tours part 2.

We leave the Hectors dolphin’s behind and continue the search for other dolphin species that we can swim with. While searching all the bays and inlets of Marlborough sounds, 2 notable things happen. First – someone spots a shark. I didn’t see it, apparently it was just a baby but in that moment I was quite pleased we were not out in the water. I have a huge fear about being attacked by sharks!

We also pass large patches of red sea water moving with the swell of the ocean.  Our skipper explains that is it thousands of lobster krill. Tiny little crustaceans. We are then asked ‘Does anyone want to eat one?’  and Daniel pipes up with ‘yip, I’ll try one’.

The skipper puts one in Daniels hand – a little bright red crustacean with long slender nippers. Not the sort of thing I would want to put in my mouth! Then it looks at me. Right in the eyes and we have a moment (can you tell I am an animal lover?) and I can’t let this little creature be eaten. I beg Daniel to put it back. Fortunately for this little critter, lobster krill is off the menu today and he is returned to the big ocean to do whatever it is that lobster krill do.

As we are nearing the end of the tour, it looks more and more likely that we won’t be swimming with dolphins today. E-Ko tours have an 80% success rate of getting clients in the water with dolphins but it just wasn’t for us today. But seeing as we are all kitted out in wetsuits and masks, it would be a shame to waste the opportunity to go for a little swim. We dock in a quiet bay and hop into the water. The wet suit keeps me surprisingly warm and buoyant. Fish food is then thrown out around us and in moments we are surround by schools of fish darting left and right, picking up the food as it lands in the water. The visibility is excellent – there are just so many fish!

We then pile back into the boat and make our way back to shore. Although I didn’t get to swim with dolphins, it was still an excellent tour. Part of the thrill of having encounters with wild animals is that it is never guaranteed, but when it does happen, oh, how special it is!

I know I will be back for another go at this bucket list item.

Picton Harbour

It’s time to board the Interislander Ferry, our trip has nearly come to an end. This time, motorbikes are the first to load which is excellent as we are booked into the Plus Lounge.

We will definitely be doing this again when we take the ferry. Big comfy seats, magazines, wifi, huge windows with great views (tinted so passengers outside can’t see in.) It is also fully catered; all food and beverages are included in the price. We head straight to the bar where the staff pour us some wines to taste before we make our selection.

There is so much food, hot, cold, savoury and sweet. What I am most excited about is the large plate of colourful macarons. I may or may not have sampled one of every colour.

Motorcycling is such an unforgettable way to travel the country, but it is tiring and at times uncomfortable. It is such a treat being able to sit back and relax in the plus lounge for the last leg of the journey.

It is a great end to our trip.

As we pull into our driveway I’m filled with excitement and can’t wait to get off the motorbike. Our dogs, Frank and Ed are there waiting for us. I have missed them so much.

Anywhere with these two is the place I call home.

1 Motorbike. 11 days. 1935km.

What an adventure.

Where it all began

Aotearoa.

The Long White Cloud.

Spectacular.

Picturesque.

Home.

There’s an old saying, ‘don’t leave home till you’ve seen the country’ made famous in a NZ tourism commercial in the mid 1980’s.

I am fortunate enough to have spent a few weeks traveling around both the North and South Island on the back of our motorbike. It gave me a taste of this beautiful country and has left me wanting more.

In May 2019, my husband and I embarked on an adventure – a 6 week trip around Europe.

We ate our way around Italy – I may have over indulged on truffles in Tuscany (but oh so good.) We witnessed Petrucci winning his first MotoGP in Mugello and kayaked through the canals of Venice at sunset.

In Slovenia and Croatia we enjoyed the great outdoors, motorcycling some spectacular alpine passes. I experienced the magical Lake Bled from a paddleboard and walked the city walls of Dubrovnik.

Istanbul was exotic: a cruise down the Bosphorus Strait in a luxury yacht, eating our way across European and Asian Istanbul, visiting mosques and doing a terrible job at bartering at The Grand Bazaar.

My blog is called ‘Exploring the Long White Cloud’ so you may be wondering why I am mentioning my trip to Europe? Here’s the thing; while our trip was amazing (and yes I do mean this, it was wonderful), whenever I am overseas, my thoughts always come back to New Zealand. Why? Because it has stolen my heart. I feel so lucky to call this place home and that I want to experience more of it.

It truly is spectacular.

People travel 1000’s of kilometers to visit NZ and I have it right here on my back door. I want to take advantage of that. When we were in Europe, everywhere we went, the people we met – they all wanted to know about New Zealand. The best places to visit, our top tips and if there were any snakes. And fortunately, we had ‘seen the country’.

Such a diverse land; beautiful beaches, lush forests, spectacular glaciers, breathtaking mountain ranges. It has it all.

Although Slovenia comes in at a close second, I think New Zealand will always be my favourite place. With a desire to experience more of my beautiful homeland, I decided that 2020 will be a year of explorations and blogging.

So click ‘follow’ and come join me on my adventures. Let me show you this beautiful land. I am sure you will fall in love with Aotearoa, the Long White Cloud, just like I have.