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A Culinary Journey at Haikai

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Growing up, I was never really that into food. I would eat because it was meal time or because I was hungry.

Then I met Daniel.

When we were dating, he would take me to all the fine dining restaurants in Wellington. That is when I really discovered food. I still wouldn’t describe myself as a foodie, but I enjoy eating beautifully presented meals, unique flavour combinations and anything with an element of surprise.

When a group of us at work participated in a fitness challenge, and won, we decided for our prize, we would dine at Haikai. To be honest, I had never heard of the place (see, I’m not a real foodie) but with a 7 course degustation dining experience on the table, I was certainly keen.

The restaurant, located in Mt Cook, has a casual, relaxed atmosphere with staff who are warm and inviting. I loved the interior too. Minimalist and contemporary interwoven with culture, tradition and history. The restaurant is small, seating only 30 people and let me tell you, this place is popular! If you are thinking you might like to dine here, be sure to book ahead! We made the booking in late August and we couldn’t get a reservation until early December. But hey, it is always great to have something nice to look forward to!

We are welcomed in and taken to our table. (We are seated in a round, booth like table.) I am intrigued to see a children’s book sitting on the table. I pick it up and flick through it. Watercress Tuna and the Children of Champion Street, a story that seems vaguely familiar from my childhood. A magical tuna (tuna is the Maori word for eel I learn) bounces out of it’s pond, through places in the community and then into the homes of local children. Each child is presented with an ethnic gift based on music and dancing. Upon receiving the gift, the children begin to dance. And dance and dance. The story is a celebration of the different cultures and ethnicity in Aotearoa .

After taking our drinks order, we are presented with the menu and now things start to make sense. Each item on the menu is inspired by Watercress Tuna. Through the food, we are taken on a journey that explores Maori myth and legends while celebrating indigenous ingredients. Some I have never heard of or tried before.

Our journey begins with appetizers that remind us of fun childhood days, brightly coloured little ‘ice cream cones’ filled with whipped ricotta and dusted with beetroot are first on the menu. The texture is divine. Smooth, rich and creamy.

We then move onto a twist on the classic 80’s prawn cocktail (The story is written in the 80’s)

The next dish is one of my favourites. (Which is odd because it has mushrooms in it, something I can’t stand!) We are presented with gorgeous little tortellini filled with creamy cheese. It is accompanied with shitaki mushrooms, ginger, watercress and more. Broth is then poured over the top as our waiter explains how the meal represents Tuna’s home, the pond with the watercress growing on the surface. This is absolutely delicious! The smooth, rich creaminess of the filled tortellini is beautifully offset by the sharpness of the pickled ginger. This is served with some gorgeous little buttermilk and honey buns to mop up all the yummy broth.

Onto the main course. My friends are served pork belly, while I have jackfruit. I have only recently been introduced to jackfruit. I find it so hard to believe it’s not meat. It’s texture is very similar and the presentation of my main next to my friends is also identical. It blows my mind how chefs can create meat and vegetarian dishes that look so similar.

At course 5 we begin dessert. It’s a 7 course meal, so yes, it means we are getting 3 desserts! A parfait comes out and it’s presentation is stunning. It’s a party on a plate. I look at this one for a while, enjoying it’s presentation, before diving in with my spoon. Lime and coconut. Creamy, smooth and very refreshing.

A colourful arrangement of fruits, meringue and an incredible kawakawa sorbet is served up next. That sorbet, wow! Just wow! The flavour is outstanding. This plate is a rainbow of delights, representing and celebrating the uniqueness and diversity of New Zealanders, just like in the book.

Our final course (I’m feeling rather full now, but it’s dessert so I’ll make room) is a selection of petite fours of classic kiwi treats using some indigenous ingredients I have never heard of before. The ‘pixie caramel’ is a most wonderful way to finish the evening.

This is a culinary journey everyone should experience at least once.

A Weekend at the Beach

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Where ever you are in New Zealand, you are never far from the coast. Having holidays on the beach is part of the great Kiwi lifestyle. So this weekend, I headed away to Waitarere Beach with my family.

Waitarere is a small beach town located on the West Coast of the North Island, about an hours drive north of the Kapiti Coast. There are parks, reserves, a small shop and a wide, sandy beach. Perfect for a weekend escape.

We call in to see my Grandmother for lunch before heading on, making a stop at the RJ’s Licorice Factory to pick some essential supplies for our beach break.

I haven’t been to Waitarere before, well not that I can remember anyway. While I am looking forward to exploring the area, I think I am most looking forward to some R&R time, great food (my brother is an excellent cook) but mostly, just having chill time with my family. I am with my mum, dad, brother, sister in law, 4 year old nephew and 1 year old niece. Daniel has stayed home. He works Saturdays and holidays aren’t really his thing. (He is one of those fortunate people that love their job so much, they would rather be at work than on holiday!)

I have booked us a bach through Book a Bach. Its my first time using this service but everything goes smoothly. We arrive, decide on rooms, unpack and then before long we are down at the beach enjoying sun, sand and sea.

I can’t remember the last time I took my shoes off and walked barefoot on the beach. I am at the beach most weekends with my dogs, but our local spot is pretty stoney. As I sink my toes into the sand and feel the cold chill (yes, it’s Spring, but it’s by no means tropical) of the ocean swirl around my ankles, city life drains out of me as I connect with nature and the environment around me.

Lachie, my 4 year old nephew, is having the time of his life, jumping over waves, running away from them, getting buried in sand and squealing with delight. It takes me back to carefree childhood days and I feel so young again. My life has become so serious and responsible, I need to make time for childlike fun.

I turn around to find that Master 4 decided my shoes were to far away. He brought them closer and next minute the waves pick them up and they start floating away.

Back at the house, bubbles, chippies and cheese come out as we sit around the outside table chatting and soaking in the setting sun. Then a water pistol appears out of no where and I am the favorite target.

Dinner is a simple BBQ and salad, but shared among family in the outdoor setting, it is perfect.

The next morning, I start my day in the outdoor shower which is incredible. The water is hot and I slowly wake up while listening to the birds. It is then followed by a gourmet cooked breakfast courtesy of my brother.

After a leisurely start to the day, we wander down to the nearby forest. A wander through some tall pine trees brings us to the fairy forest. Its easy to miss the magic of a place like this, but I am given the opportunity to view it through the eyes of a child. They see beauty in the simple things and awe in the mysterious.

Continuing with our walk we come across an outdoor obstacle course of various difficulties. We all pick and choose the parts we want to tackle, I am no where near as agile as I used to be but manage a few of them.

We make our way back to the house along the beach, foraging for shells (now hanging on my Christmas tree) and other treasures. Shoes of course come off again and we spend a good hour playing in the waves and sand. We have also grabbed the petanque set and have a few games on the beach.

After lunch I take an afternoon nap on the deck, enjoying the warmth of the sun, until I am rudely awakened by the water pistol again. No, it’s not my 4 year old nephew, but my 35 year old brother. He still knows how to have childlike fun!

Dinner is another wonderful affair, simple, but isn’t it often the way that the simple things offer the most pleasure in life? I make one last trip down to the beach in the evening to watch the sun set. I am accompanied by my sister in law and her rabbit!

The morning is greeted by another outdoor shower. Today, I am on breakfast so I whip up some buttermilk pancakes with berry compote.

Our time here has come to an end but it has been wonderful. Knowing that places like this exist, so close to where I live, makes me again so thankful that I live where I do.

The family all agree that we should make this an seasonal event, so watch this space. I hope to be bringing you a summer edition in the next 3 months!

A day on Kapiti Island

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Its a sight I have seen too many times to count. The long stretch of land off the coast of Kapiti. I know it’s shape well, low at one end with its bumpy mountain ridge, rising to a peak before sloping back off down to the sea.

Sometimes it looks so close you feel like you could just reach out and touch it. Other times it is barely visible under the low lying cloud.

Today, I will be getting a different perspective, viewing the mainland from Kapiti Island. I am joined by my dad, brother and 4 year old nephew as we embark on our adventure with Kapiti Island Eco Experience

Arriving at the check in point, we are asked to check our bags for any rodents or insects. Raumati has an issue with Argentine ants which would cause a lot of damage if they made it onto the Island. After cleaning our shoes we climb onto the boat, but not before stopping to say hello to a little dog who visits lots of nature reserves tracking down rats.

It’s a fairly smooth crossing and some seagulls join us for the sailing across. The top of Kapiti is covered in a blanket of mist. I hope this clears. We are planning to walk to the summit and would love to see the view from up there. As we near Kapiti Island, the water changes. There is a very distinct line where the murky sage green changes to a deep blue.

Once on the island we make our way to the DOC shelter for an introduction and orientation to the island. Originally, New Zealand was a country with no mammals except bats. With no predators, our bird life was abundant, with many species living on the forest floor, rather than high up in the trees. When the Maori arrived, they brought kunekune pigs and dogs with them. These were the first introduced mammals. Then the European settlers came bringing many other mammals and predators that would have a huge impact on our native birds. It didn’t take long before a quarter of our bird life was wiped out.

Resolution Island in Fiordland was set up as a reserve, but being so close to the mainland, rats were able to swim across. Kapiti Island is 6Km from the mainland, a distance that rats can’t swim, making it an ideal reserve. It was farmland up until 1897 and in the early 1900 it became a sanctuary.

Today you can visit this Island, or even stay the night (need to add this to the bucket list!) and experience what New Zealand bird life would have been like many years ago. The forest really does come to life. There are so many sounds, and not just bird song; the rhythmic call of the ocean, Tieke (saddlebacks) rustling in the leaf litter looking for their meal, the Kereru (wood pigeon) as they defy gravity and somehow manage to fly through the air. All these sounds combine to make up natures concert.

Kapiti Island is 3km wide by 10km long and 550m high. There are several walks you can do on the Island, but most people choose to walk to the summit, which is what we do. We take the Wilkinson Track which is 3.8km one way. It’s a 2 hours walk to the summit and we have a 4 year old in the party. 20 minutes in he is telling us how tired he is and that he needs to be carried. So we distract him with questions and pointing out birds and telling him that it not too far to go (A hour and a half isn’t long is it?)

We see a lot of birds on our walk; Tui, Kereru, Tieke, Kakariki and Weka, but my favourite was the little North Island Robin. They are quiet little birds but I would see some movement out of the corner of my eye and turn to find one, quietly watching us or looking for food on the forest floor.

The forest is gorgeous and I notice a change in the vegetation as we climb higher and higher. Near the base it’s more scrubby, then it starts to look a bit tropical with lots of palm like trees and then it turns into beautiful ancient looking forest. That type of forest, the trees have really have a presence, like they have weathered many seasons and have many stories to tell. I love this type of forest. I also become aware of the different layers in the forest. I have never really thought about it before, but with no pests to eat young seedlings, there are some very distinct layers of small saplings being shelters by tall mature trees.

As we near the top, the mist sets in. And the rain. And, it’s absolutely stunning! Our skipper had told us he likes the island the best in the rain and mist and I now understand why. The colours of the forest become so vibrant. It’s enchanting, slightly eerie and so incredibly peaceful.

We make it to the top and not a view in sight. It’s a bit disappointing, but the walk in the mist was well worth it! We sit down for a well earnt picnic lunch. We are joined by a couple of weka’s who are hopeful we will share some of our lunch with them.

We start the decent and about two thirds of the way down, the birds start sounding very loud. And then I see why. Food has been put in the feeding station and the Tui and Hihi are filling the forest with their song.

We make it back to the beach with about an hour to spare, so spend some time skipping stones and relaxing in the sun (yes the sun was out, but the mist was still hanging around the summit) This has been a great day trip.

I am so proud of my nephew Lachie. He walked ALL the way to the top and all the way down. On his own. He didn’t need to be carried once. What a champ!

Ticking off the Bucket List – part 2

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We are dropped back off at the lodge and spend some time sitting out on the front porch, drinking pinot, with some home made shortbread, looking out at the ocean, watching the day become night. I do enjoy living in the city, but the peacefulness of being out in the country is rejuvenating.

Pre-drinks and canapes are being served at 6:30pm so I decide to go for a quick swim before dinner. Unfortunately for me, the heating system is broken so the water is a little chilly. Not nearly as freezing as the ‘plunge pool’ in Queenstown, but cool enough that it takes me a while to actually get in.

The pool room is a tropical oasis (except maybe for the water temperature) It is next to a courtyard filled with tall trees and citrus fruits. The ceiling is glass and I swim a few laps (or should I say float awkwardly around with a pool noodle) looking up at the sky.

Time for drinks and canapes. We get dressed up and walk over to the lodge. The walkway is lit up and the lodge looks very grand. We take a seat and give our drink orders. Wharekauhau have their own Gin called Lighthouse, made with natural spring water taken straight from the grounds at the lodge. I have never tried a G&T so I decide now is the time to give it a go. It’s quite a refreshing drink and I am a fan.

We are served several delectable morsels of food while chatting to the hosts who are naturally some of the friendliest people I have met. We are then seated in the dining room ready for our 4 course Trust the Chef culinary experience. The food was all amazing. I am a vegetarian and I am always wowed by how they can serve a meat meal to Daniel and a vegetarian meal to me and have them still looking the same. When they served my main course I double checked that it is in fact vegetarian, as my egg plant looks so much like a lamb steak. While I am not usually a big fan of eggplant, this is delicious.

All the guests are chattering away and a lovely elderly couple make their way around all the tables, introducing themselves and getting to know everyone. They even start a couple of rounds of ‘happy birthday’ for some of the guests. They were meant to be on a Mississippi River Cruise celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary, but as we all know, travel plans this year have been turned upside down. I think Wharekauhau was a great choice.

We head back to our cottage to find our free mini bar restocked and a chocolate truffle beside the bed. Yum. I could get used to this service.

Its a cool night, but it also means that it is a clear night and the sky is lit with stars. Wrapped in a blanket with lantern and camera in hand, I take my chair out into the night to sit and stare at the stars. This time I manage a somewhat OK photo of the night sky. It really doesn’t do it justice, but if I keep practicing, I might be able to take some great astro photography shots one day.

Its getting late so I head back inside to find Daniel stretched out on the couch in front of the gas fire, fast asleep. He assured me he would be wide awake to watch the MotoGP live, but sleep has won him over. I on the other hand want to make the most of our 1 night stay, so at around midnight, I run a bath filled with bath salts. Its right next to the window so I can soak in the bath while gazing at the stars.

Finally sleep wins me over and I take myself off to bed listening to the soothing sounds of the mighty ocean near by.

The morning arrives and our time hear is drawing to an end. We do have a late checkout though so while Daniel sleeps I make myself a peppermint tea to sip in the sun while I read my book. We make our way to the conservatory for breakfast. I love porridge. I know, it’s one of the cheapest, easiest meals to make, but I love it. And so I ordered it. Smooth and creamy, topped with nuts and poached pears from the garden, it hits the spot.

We have a quick game of croquet before it’s time to put on our gear and pack up the bike. At check out we are given a (rather large) bottle of their Lighthouse Gin to take home. Our bags are full but I manage to make room.

It’s time to say goodbye to this Grand Olde Lady. She is full of charm, decadence and warm hospitality. I hope we will return one day.

Ticking off the Bucket List – part 1

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For the longest time, we are talking around 10 years, I have wanted to stay at Wharekauhau. A residents special made this possible so I booked this back in May and have been patiently waiting ever since.

Today a big tick is going on the bucket list. The day is finally here. We are heading to Wharekauhau, at Cape Palliser in the Wairarapa.

We have been here a couple of times for lunch, it’s where Daniel proposed and holds a special place in my heart.

It’s a beautiful still day so we decide to travel up on our Motorbike. I kinda like the idea that we are traveling to a luxury lodge on our rough looking, beaten up, but much loved Fireblade.

We arrive. She is such a grand old house. We are greeted with the warm, friendly hospitality we have always experience here. Our bags are taken to our room on a little golf cart and we start our night away with a cool drink on the front porch, looking out across green pastures and the rugged, but very charming Cape Palliser.

Jackie then gives a tour of the property. There is so much attention to details. The artwork, the decor, it’s a feast for the eyes. We go to the games rooms, the dining room, my heart flutters a little when I spot the room where Daniel got down on one knee. We then head outside to the courtyard and are shown where to find the petanque set, croquet clubs, tennis court and swimming pool.

We arrive at our cottage, it’s very private, set among trees and decorated to the highest standard. Yes, I think this will do quite nicely.

We are booked in for clay target shooting (first time for both of us) so we change out of our motorbike gear and head back up to the lodge where our guide, Dougal is waiting for us. We jump into the 4wheel drive and head out into the country side.

We arrive at our first stop, the station is nestled into the bush. We get some instructions on how to hold the gun, what to expect and how to stand.

Daniel is up first.

Pull. The bright orange target soars through the air.

Bang.

He hits it first time. And then again and again and again.

He is a natural and I am desperately hoping that I also manage to hit some.

Its my turn now. There are 2 shotguns. I start with the smaller one, a Buretta 4/10. I take my time getting used to holding it, it’s weight, and making sure I am tucking it into my shoulder.

Then it gets loaded.

Pull. I spot the disk and follow it with my eyes. Then it starts dropping.

Bang. But I have left it too late. A clear miss. But now I have taken the first shot, experienced the kick back and know what to expect, I am feeling a little more relaxed about it.

I fire a few more misses, but then, contact. Yay!

Now I have the hang of things I move onto the bigger shotgun, a 12 guage German Beretta semi automatic. This one is so much heavier and I struggle to hold the gun up for more than a few seconds, but this holds 2 shots which increases my chance of hitting the targets. Which I do.

We then move 2 a second site. The machine at this site can fire out 2 targets. So now we are firing at 2 targets. I could hit the first one but then I was so quick looking for the second one that I had to keep asking if I hit anything. Surprisingly I am quite good at hitting the first target, not so much the second.

Daniel is doing quite well so he is then challenged to start with the gun to the ground and to then pull it up into position after the target is released. This helps even up the scores between us.

We are now at the last station. What a beautiful place. Trees, birds and a milky blue river flowing below us. Again, 2 targets are sent out at once, but the difference here is that instead of being sent straight out in front of me, they are coming around to the left and dropping quite quickly. These ones are rather challenging. I think it was more luck than skill, but I am pleased to report that as I got better, Daniel got worse and we ended the experience with the same amount of hits.

Pretty darn proud of myself.

As Dougal said, ‘for a city girl who works at a bank, you did pretty good!’

Cherry Blossoms in the Spring Time

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My small home orchard has spent the last few months sleeping, but now it is beginning to stir. Bare branches are showing signs of life, blossoms are beginning to appear and the bees are waking from their winter hibernation.

Spring is here.

And what better way to enjoy the new season, than with a walk through the cherry blossom gardens at Aston Norwood in Kaitoke.

It’s a perfect Spring day (quite unusual actually) with bright blue skies and not a breath of wind. I am here with my mum and we begin our stroll around the gardens.

We amble along the path, it’s a loop track that takes many twists and turns, leading us to different areas of the garden, secret places, ponds and quiet spots to pause and take it all in.

Bold pink camellias and red rhododendrons are in bloom which we stop to admire before heading down to the lower pond. Before arriving at the pond we are greeted by some inquisitive ducks who stop to say hello. There are meant to be eels in this pond that you can feed but we didn’t see any this time (much to my mum’s relief!) We take a few minutes to enjoy the waterfall. There is something very soothing about the sound of water.

Continuing on, we pass daffodil dell. The bright, cheeky yellow flowers that are a tell tale sign that spring has arrived. The hum of the bees in this area is magnificent.

We then approach what we have been waiting for – Cherry Lane. An explosion of soft pink blossoms lining the walkway. It’s a spectacular sight and we feel very lucky to see it in all it’s splendour. The blossoms only last for a couple of weeks. We timed out trip perfectly.

We take our time walking down cherry lane. It’s really quite a magical moment. The bird house nestled into the blossoms and the bridge at the end of the lane adds to the charm of this beautiful place.

We carry on with the walk, it probably takes us about an hour. You could do it a lot quicker, but it’s the sort of place you want to take your time and we are in no rush. Being in nature like this is energizing. It’s hard to believe we are right next to State Highway 2!

This is a walk for any garden lover. I am sure it would be lovely at any time of they year, the colours and shapes changing with the seasons. But if you get the opportunity to visit during cherry blossom season, it’s truly a splendid time to visit.

Cycling the Martinborough Vineyards part 2

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We wake in the morning to the sound of very strong gusty winds. Is it raining? I don’t know, I am not sure I would be able to hear it over the wind. This is so disappointing. I have booked bicycles to tour the vineyards on, this is not the type of weather you want to be riding a bike in!

We have a lazy start to the morning. The first vineyard doesn’t open until 11am. Fortunately the rain mostly stops and the wind seems like it has died down enough to make riding bikes possible. We didn’t really have a plan B!

We head down to Green Jerseys to pick up our bikes. (Helmets are also provided) I had suggested we hire the tandem bike but Daniel wasn’t into that idea. Maybe he thinks I will sit at the back and not peddle (highly likely!)

And so our cycling adventure begins. I am pretty wobbly at first, but I quickly get the hang of it. I am surprised at how unfit I am. I do a lot of walking, I guess this is just a different type of fit. Daniel of course is very competent and well, what can I say, he is not really a companion rider. He zooms off and I have to try and keep up because my sense of direction is just appalling.

We have decided to go to the furthest vineyard first and then slowly make our way back to town, stopping in at the different places along the way. We ride past green fields, the golf course, cute little spring time lambs grazing, and of course grape vines. I am feeling hot and flushed but having so much fun!

After what feels like ages (it was actually only 15 minutes) we arrive at our first stop, Te Kairanga Wines and are are greeted by Otto the dog, a very enthusiastic little cutie.

Te Kairanga, or TK, was established back in 1984 and is one of the oldest vineyards in area. The founder of Martinborough, John Martin, once owned this land, and his 130 year old cottage still remains. TK cellar door offer tastings of their wines as well as wines from Martinborough vineyard, which is home to the oldest vines in Martinborough. After our educational wine tasting tour in Queenstown, we are now able to taste these wines like pros. The vines here are nearly 40 years old. I learn that old vines produce a much smaller yield, but the flavour is more intense. After several tastings and making a few purchases, we make our way to our next stop.

Moy Hall. We are cycling into a head wind but I am happy and full of wine so I don’t mind. I actually seem to be even better at peddling now I have had a few glasses! It’s a bustling place, they do sharing plates and we have arrived at lunchtime. Fortunately I pre booked and we are shown to our table in an outdoor marquee looking out across the vineyard. Being a vegetarian and Daniel being a big meat eater, sharing plates isn’t the best for us, but the menu looked so great I wanted to give it a try. Delicious and quite large portions, the warm broccoli salad and a side of fresh bread and local olive oil was plenty. But then for dessert, I thought I’d branch out and try something different. I ordered the cheese. Why did I order the cheese? Don’t get me wrong, it was nice, but when it said soft cheese, I was expecting some sort of fresh, soft mozzarella, not a super fragrant rind covered cheese. Daniel ordered Moy Mess (Pavlova, berries and cream) and I had serious plate envy.

Onto Colombo Martinborough, a modern, swanky looking place with simple, minimalistic decor and freshly made pizza. I am way too full from lunch but their pizzas look divine! We are here during level 2 lock down so instead of offering tradition wine tasting at their cellar door, they are doing ‘flight wine’ – you choose the size paddle you want and then choose what to fill it with from a selection of wines on offer.

We then head to Haythornthwaite. It’s quite an interesting place. Not modern and flashy like Colombo, but set in a lovely garden full of blossoms. I have been holding out to try their gewurztraminer. I have recently discovered this wine and I love it. Sadly they are sold out. It must have been good! They do however have some reasonably aged wines available for tasting and was surprised to learn that you can cellar white wines. I always just thought that was something you did with red wines. Along with wine, there is also a selection of home made jams and preserves you can purchase.

Our final stop of the day is Schubert Wines We arrive only a few minutes before closing so it’s a bit of a rushed tasting but we leave the place with a 2019 dolce dessert wine and a 2016 magnum pinot noir. Daniel. He always likes to be extravagant!

I highly recommend hiring bikes and cycling around the vineyards, they are all so close together and it’s a really fun way to spend the day. The whole bike hire process with Green Jerseys was super simple and they offer wine collection. When you make a purchase, just text them the name of the vineyard and how many bottles you bought. They then zip round in their van at the end of the day and pick up all your purchases! So easy.

When we arrive back at the shop, our large box of wine is ready to go.

Cycling the Martinborough Vineyards Part 1

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I love Martinborough. My cousins grew up here and I have so many wonderful memories of weekends and school holidays spent on the farm. There was always an adventure to be had and this place will always hold a special place in my heart.

Martinborough has changed quite a bit since my childhood days. It’s still a rural country town but it is now also a hot spot for Wellintonians who can just pop over the hill for a weekend escape. With it’s boutique shops, gourmet food and fresh country air, an indulgent weekend weekend away is easy to achieve.

Oh, and they also (according to my husband) make some of the best pinot noir in the country. So while great food and the outdoors is on the agenda, we are here for a weekend of wine.

Martinborough is in the south of the Wairarapa, about an hours drive from Wellington. Or you can take the train which connects with a bus in Featherston. It’s an easy day trip, but if you have the time, I highly recommend coming for a weekend.

It’s a wet dreary day in Wellington, but in less than an hour, we are heading into indigo sky and green pastures. I have booked us a villa at Margrain Vineyard. We have stayed here a couple of times before. The first time, Daniel surprised me with a weekend trip away….

He booked the Pinot Suite. The place was huge! But all I really remember was eating our $20 fish and chips at the 12 seater burl wood table. We decide that next time it would make more sense to book a cheaper room and have more money for spending on wine.

So that’s what we did. I now do all the travel planning and I am much less extravagant. (Although I write this now, smiling to myself, thinking about a post I will be publishing in a couple of weeks time!)

We stay in one of their villas. The place reminds me a bit of Noddy’s town with it’s brown and blue villas with chapel like towers on each of the rooms. It is certainly a distinct looking place. Our room is light, spacious and has a small balcony overlooking green fields. It is very comfortable and perfect for our weekend getaway.

The room rate also includes a daily continential breakfast as well as a selection of teas, coffee and hot chocolate. They have also placed a selection of their wines in our room.

The Pinot Noir is opened straight away!

With a glass of pinot in hand and a map, I settle in to plan out our wine tasting route for tomorrow. You can download the map, pick one up from the information center, or, in our case, there was one in the room. There are over 20 vineyards and it’s a hard choice. Reading through the little blurbs, they all sound great. Some are only open by appointment or in the summer, so that rules out a few, but I still have a good selection to choose from. I figure if we have a decent lunch, I can probably manage about 4 – 5 places before I can no long ride a bike in a straight line.

To be continued.

Queenstown in the Winter for non Skiers

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Pretty much every time I told someone that I was heading to Queenstown in July, I got asked the same question.

‘Are you going skiing?’

‘No.’

The skill and coordination required for activities such as skiing, snowboarding and ice skating seems to have escaped me. And while Queenstown is a very popular place for snow seeking adventurers, there is still plenty to see and do in this spectacular region for those of you like me who aren’t keen on hitting the slopes.

Here are my top 6 things to do in Queesntown in the Winter for non skiiers.

Walks. There are plenty of walks you can do in Queenstown, varying in length and difficulty. The walk we did was a pleasant stroll through the Queenstown Gardens, located at the far end of the bay on a small peninsular jutting out into the lake. It is a pretty loop track that took us about half an hour. It passes through trees, over a stream, through a rose garden and around the lake, offering great views of the Remarkables and Queenstown township. We did this walk at dusk, lights were just stating to come on and the reflections across the lake were gorgeous. There is also a tyre swing for those who are keen.

Adrenaline. If you are looking to get the adrenaline pumping, there are plenty of activities to choose from. We did a jet boat tour on the iconic Shotover River. Stunning scenery and a thrilling ride. You can read about our experience here. Bungy Jumping your thing? (it’s not mine!) But if you fancy leaping off a bridge, Kawarau is the worlds home of bungy. Even if your just watching (like I did) it’s pretty spectacular scenery. Or you might like to go paragliding off Coronet peak. I don’t like heights, but this one is on my bucket list.

Lake Cruise. What better way to experience Lake Wakatipu than on a 108 year old twin screw steamer. The Edwardian styled TSS Earslaw still makes daily trips out on the lake. Step back in time on this grand old lady and enjoy the stunning views from the middle of the lake. We did a night time cruise which you can read about here.

There is also the million dollar boat cruise which we did on our first trip to Queenstown. The cruise wasn’t as nostalgic, but it was certainly interesting and I even got to have a go steering the boat.

Wine Tasting. If you are a lover of wine then Queesntown is the place to sample some of the best pinot noir in the country. There are a number of tour operators you can choose from, we did our tour with Queenstown Winery Tours. You can read about our experience here. It was such a fun and educational day, with great food and exceptional wine. We may have purchased quite a lot of wine to bring home with us!

Day Trip. While Queenstown is stunning, there are some equally stunning places not far from the town, so if your after a change of scenery, get in a car and head out on a day trip.

Why not check out Glenorchy. The journey there is half the fun. Its a gorgeous stretch of road that will have you wanting to stop every 5 minutes to take photos. Once there, soak up the peacefulness of the area, enjoy the views, read about the TSS Earnslaw in the boat shed and go for a walk around the lagoon. We had a great time there and you can read about it here.

If your in the mood for a bit of history, you should visit charming Arrowtown. It’s an old gold mining town with remnants of the past still visible and has a well preserved Chinese Settlers Village. Situated along side the Arrow River, there are walks, cafe’s and boutique shops to keep you entertained. Here is an account of our day trip to Arrowtown.

Or why not head over The Crown Range and spend some time relaxing on the shore of Lake Wanaka. Enjoy some lunch in one of the many Lake Front cafes, experience the lake from a Kayak and take your own photo of the iconic #That Wanaka Tree

Skyline Gondola and Luge. For spectacular views over Queenstown, you can’t go past the Skyline Gondola. Take a ride up to the top, check out the views and maybe enjoy a drink or two in the cafe. When your ready to make your way down, why not try The Luge. This was something we did on our first trip to Queenstown. I was quite nervous about it but it actually turned out to be so much fun, it even started lightly snowing on our way down. Magical.

And so you see, there are plenty of things to keep yourself entertained with in Queenstown during the winter. Even if you don’t ski.

Dining in Queenstown

On By exploringthelongwhitecloudIn Uncategorized3 Comments

Queenstown is a foodie’s delight.

In our week long stay we were able to try some delicious food so I thought it would be fun to do a post on some of the memorable (and not so memorable) places we tried during our stay.

One thing I noticed was how well vegetarians and vegans are catered for here. Don’t get me wrong, New Zealand certainly does cater to these dietary requirements, but the choice in Queenstown was far greater than what I am used to at home.

Mulled Wine. On a cool winter’s day, whats better than a hot, steaming wine to warm you up. I tried mulled wine from a couple of places but my favorite was hands down, the mulled wine from Pier Restaurant & Bar down by the lake front. Their mulled wine is beautifully spiced but it was the whole experience that made this so enjoyable. Sitting outside, next to the gas heater, people watching and taking in the view of the stunning Remarkable Ranges. It doesn’t get much better than this. Their Baileys hot chocolate is also great.

Craft Beer Bar. Now I am not a beer drinker, but Smith’s Craft Beer House was recommended to us by some friends. After an exhilarating but rather freezing afternoon spent jet boating, this was the perfect place to warm up, wait for the feelings to return to my toes and watch the world go by. Their mulled ginger beer and deep fried pickles were the perfect accompaniment to my defrosting. There is a great range of beers on tap and the place has a relaxed, chilled vibe.

A sweet treat. If you are feeling a little peckish after dinner (or have an hour to wait for the bus like we did) and wanting a little something sweet to finish off with, you can’t go wrong with the S’mores from the Cookie Time Cookiebar. I don’t think it is even on their menu but I spotted someone else having one and had to try it. Warm, gooey, sweet and sticky it’s the perfect little bite to warm you from the inside out.

Vineyard Lunch. If you get the opportunity to dine at Akarua Winery you wont be disappointed. The setting is beautiful, the food is scrumptious and you’re in a vineyard, with excellent wine on hand. Win win. We came here as part of a wine tasting tour and were served a selection of food to share among the table. Fresh bread, olives, salmon, super crispy potatoes, a freshly baked lamb pie and a gorgeous haloumi salad for me. This place seems to be well known amongst the locals which is always a good sign.

To Ferg or not to Ferg. That is the question. If you have even been to Queenstown or even just planning your visit, I am sure you have heard about the famous Ferg Burger. With it’s queues of people lining the streets, waiting to get their hands on one of these burgers, I must admit that I was a bit skeptical. Surely it can’t be THAT good. So, on every tour we went on, I asked the other tourists and the locals – have you had Ferg burger? Is it really that good? The tourists told me, call ahead to make your order so you don’t wait ages in the queue.

However, the word from the locals was that Devil Burger was just as good and didn’t have the long wait. So after doing my research, on our last night, we went to Devil Burger. And I have to say, we were wildly underwhelmed. There was nothing wrong with the burger, it was made with fresh ingredients, but there was no wow factor. So I still can’t tell you if Ferg Burger is really as good as everyone says, but if it really is like Devil Burger, then I have to say, our local burger joint, Dirty Burger in Petone is so much better. Next time I will try Ferg Burger & settle this debate!

Steak. So as you may already know, I am a vegetarian. My husband is a big meat eater. And somehow, on our 10 year wedding anniversary, I found myself having dinner at a Jervois Steak House. If you are a lover of fine dining and steak, you will love this place. Its busy, but the staff are attentive and friendly. Their steak menu is extensive and you could easily spend a small fortune here. If you have ever wondered what a $70 piece of steak looks like, here it is:

Daniel did say it was excellent and really enjoyed the experience. My meal was fine, I had a salad and a side of kumera. While there are some vegetarian options, this place really is for meat lovers.

Best dining experience. Not just in Queenstown. This has to be one of my favourite dining experiences.

Ever!

We are relatively new to the concept of ‘Trust the Chef’ dining but it is something we are really enjoying and No5 Church Lane was exceptional. Daniel of course insisted on the special ‘7 course option’ that wasn’t advertised on the menu but I am so glad he did. The presentation was beautiful and we tried so many new things; like deep fried banana flower that they called the vegetarian version of fried chicken, even Daniel was a fan and that’s saying something!

The most ‘out there’ dish though was Daniel’s main course. Lamb bacon, topped with a purple maori potato. On top of that was a scoop of black pudding ice cream, yes you read that correctly, garnished with a rosemary crisp. He described it as wild and out of his comfort zone, but in a really good way.

Our waiter then brought out a waffle cone with ice cream (not black pudding flavour), telling us that’s it’s the first dessert! I have never been anywhere before were you are served 2 desserts!

Every dish was outstanding, creative and left me excited to see what would follow next. If you get the chance to dine here, I can’t recommend this place enough.

Wherever your culinary journey in Queenstown takes you, I have no doubt that you will find plenty of flavours to delight your taste buds with.