Category: Fiji

Jet Skiing in Fiji

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It’s our last day in this tropical paradise, but we are not done with the adventure. Today, jet skiing is on the agenda. I checked the weather forecast several times the night before and it assured me the rain would only be through the night and we would see blue skies in the morning.

I don’t sleep well and hear the rain all night. Unfortunately by morning, nothing had changed. We pack our day bag and catch a taxi over to Port Denarau. Again, I am amazed at the contrast when we drive through the gates. The lawns are beautifully manicured and in the rain, everything looks so lush. Our tour departs from Raddison Blu Resort. It’s like stepping into another world. Wow, what a place. The pool is stunning, surrounded by rocks and palms. There are different areas, secluded spas and the main pool even has golden sand at its edge for kids to build sand castles in.

We check in at the hydro sports reception, but the rain is persistent. They recommend we wait a while to see if it eases up. So we wait, but we are in lounge chairs, under the patio, pool side with free wifi that actually works. There are worse places to be stuck waiting. While there, we also have the privilege of witnessing a proposal.

After an hour, we are informed that we won’t be able to do the 3 hours safari to Treasure Island due to the rain and mist. You can’t even see the nearby islands, they are covered in a blanket of grey. I am really disappointed. I had an incredible family holiday on Treasure Island about 30 years ago and was looking forward to seeing the Island again. But I can understand why this tour is cancelled, the weather is far from ideal.

After more waiting we are told we can do a 1 hour jet ski safari up the river and along the coast. It’s quite a different experience to what I had planned, but what can you do? Sometimes the weather impacts travel plans and you just have to roll with it.

Finally it’s time to head out. The plan had been for Daniel to drive the jet ski and for me to go pillion. But Daniel and our guides are pretty persistent in encouraging me to take my own. I am very adamant that I should ride pillion but they finally get me to agree to take it out for a little test ride.

I ride pillion with the guide around the buoys while he explains how the jet ski works. Then it’s my turn. I am surprised at how easy it is and by the time I have made my way around the circuit, I have it sorted and am even enjoying it.

On our separate jet skis, we head out. They are in great condition, only 3 months old and power through the water with ease. We go around the course a couple more times so our guide can be sure we are OK, then we head off, speeding along the coastline. The main island looks really beautiful. The colours are soft, muted but the misty weather and mountainous peaks rise up from the island. I like seeing it from this perspective.

We take the jet skis up river, twisting and turning with its bends. There are some quite sharp turns, but the jet ski (and me) handle it well. They are fast too. I manage to get up to 72kmph. Faster than the boys. Apparently they are only meant to get up to 70km, I guess being a little lighter helps me go faster!

It’s still raining. I couldn’t say if it was heavy or light, but let me tell you, speeding through it at nearly 70km per hour, it hits hard on my bare skin. It feels like I am having acupuncture all over my face! But it doesn’t matter. The jet skiing is really fun and I’m loving it. I’m so grateful they convinced me to take my own.

We do a few donuts, then head back out towards the ocean and further down the coast. The waves make the riding a bit bumpy. I am speeding along behind the others at the back of the line and struggle with a turn. I’m not exactly sure what happened, but I feel myself get bumped off the ski. My first thought was ‘will this hurt? Am I going to go skipping across the water on my bare flesh? But I land with a splash and realise I am OK. My next thought is concern that the jet ski will run over me, but when I came off, the kill switch was activated, so it slowed down pretty quickly. The water is really warm and the life jacket makes floating effortless. I am a little bit shaken, but perfectly fine.

Our guide helps me back onto the jet ski and I think ‘right, I need to get back on the horse and tame this beast!’ My heart is pounding and we sit for a couple of minutes so I can have a rest. Then we are off again. I ride more cautiously on the way back. Daniel tells me to stand up and keep my knees slightly bent as it will help going over the waves, but I just don’t have the strength to do that. I can only manage it for a few moments at a time. Jet skiing is far more physical than I had realised! I definitely preferred riding up the river than along the ocean. In hindsight, I think it worked out better. A 3 hours safari across open water would have been a challenge.

We arrive back at the resort and my adrenaline is pumping. I am on such a high and feeling really proud of myself for doing it. All this excitement has made me really hungry so we decide to hang around the resort for a bit and eat lunch here, pool side of course. It’s really nice here, but also very crowded.

After a leisurely meal, we head to the Port to get a taxi home. The combination of heat, jet skiing and a lunchtime cocktail has made my legs feel like jelly and I really struggle with the 20 minute walk. Back at our accommodation I take a nap and then decide to have a swim in the pool. The water is freezing. Nothing like the warm ocean water this morning.

It’s our last night, so we head back to Club 57 to their rooftop bar that we enjoyed so much the other day. This time we get a balcony seat and are able to watch the fire show happening below. Dinner is delicious and a lovely end to our week in the land of smiles.

Finding Fiji Time

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Waking up with the daylight is a lovely way to start the morning. I enjoy connecting with the earth’s natural patterns, something that is lost in the city. I throw on a dress and walk barefoot down to Sunrise Beach to welcome in the day. I’m surprised to be the only one here. I dig my toes into the deliciously soft, golden sand and let the waves roll in over my feet.

The day is still and quiet, the morning colours soft. The clouds are painted in golds and pink from the sun rays casting out from behind the distant islands. Little silver fish dart about in the clear water. And I am the only one here to see it.

When the sun is fully up, I head back towards the dive shop and bump into Filo (the marine biologist I met yesterday) She has the drone out and is heading to Manta Beach to see how many manta there are and to try and ID them. Each manta has its own unique marking, like how zebras and giraffes each have their own unique stripes and spots.

I sit on the beach with Filo, watching the drone screen, trying to spot the manta. They are little black dots on a screen, but Filo has a great eye for spotting them. From the air, they look a bit like the batman symbol. Filo is able to fly the drone close and zoom in. This enables her to see the markings and ID the manta. The two manta we saw yesterday are back again. Champs, a black and white chevron manta and Ember, a fully black, melanism manta. Both are females.

Champs has the most beautiful markings. I saw her yesterday in the water, but seeing her from above, I can really appreciate her colouring. Filo shows me some drone footage from yesterday of Champs doing somersaults, turning in the water to feed. What spectacular creatures.

When the guests arrive out on the water for their swim, Filo is able to use the drone to signal to the drivers where the mantas are. It is a very well run operation that respects and cares for the manta and gives guests an amazing opportunity to get up close to these beautiful creatures.

My stomach tells me it’s breakfast time so I head over to the dining room. Just as I arrive, Daniel appears too. Over another delicious tropical breakfast, we talk about our plans for the day. Yesterday was very active, so we decide to take it easy today.

After a leisurely breakfast, we head out for a kayak. They have several kayaks at the resort, but with 3 beaches, the tricky part is finding them, of course they were on the last beach we visited! We launch the kayaks and head out. Initially we head towards the left, but the waves are quite strong so we head to the right where it’s a bit more sheltered. This takes us right through manta passage and around to Sunrise Beach. One of the great things about having 3 beaches on the island is if it’s a bit windy on one side, it’s usually a lot calmer on the other, so you are able to escape the wind.

It’s a pretty overcast day, warm, but grey. It’s nice kayaking weather. The water is so incredibly clear. It’s deep and a bit choppy, but I can still see so much colour below. We are paddling around the island, but out past the point, it gets really choppy, so we decide to head back to shore. I manage to stay pretty dry but right at the end, a wave comes up and over the kayak and I am soaked. Such fun though.

After a trip to the bar, it’s time to relax in the hammock with a book and find Fiji Time. The birds are chirping, the soothing sound of the ocean is right by me, bliss.

Then Cookie appears, she is the resident parrot that was rescued from the black market. We have seen her around, but not up close. She wanders around and Daniel and I quietly follow her. Next minute, Daniel is lying in the sand right next to her, taking photos. She is quite interested in the camera strap and goes up close to have a look.

Now I have the camera, I find a place to sit quietly in the grass and Cookie comes running over. I put out a finger and she jumps on, running up my arm to my shoulder so she can check out the camera again. It’s a special moment.

Most of the afternoon is spent in the hammock, it’s a holiday after all! I usually plan quiet full itineraries, but today is wonderfully slow and it feels indulgent.

After a long stint in the hammock, I have a wander on the beach and look for crabs. It’s low tide, so the rocks are quite exposed. All around me I hear scuttling sounds and see quick movements out of the corner of my eyes. I want to have a crab race so I find my first competitor, Caesar. He is brave, curious and ready to race. But I can’t find an equally matched competitor. The others just hide in their shell. So I settle with taking some photos of Caesar and then return him to the rocks.

Late afternoon, we decide to head out for a snorkel. As it’s low tide, we can’t go out at Sunset Beach. However, on Sunrise Beach, there is a channel through the coral so you can snorkel there at any time of the day. The water is noticeably colder today, but once we are in, it’s OK. The reef edge is much closer to shore at Sunrise Beach and once again we are in foreign lands, exploring the underwater gardens. On this snorkel we see some quite large butterfish and a school of parrot fish.

Dinner is quite the event tonight, there was a group celebrating a milestone birthday. When the music starts, they get up and dance. Everyone is joining in with the singing and clapping. The dining room gets very loud and festive. A great end to a great day.

Coral Planting & Snorkeling Safari

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Barefoot Manta Island Resort run a range of daily tours and activities for guests. There is one that has caught our eye, which is the full day conservation project, so we book ourselves in. It begins with a classroom style lesson, taken by Filo, one of the Marine Biologists on the island. For the next hour and a half, we learn all about the local fish and coral found in the waters here. There is also the opportunity to ask her many questions. Like, what was that popping sound I could hear in the water this morning and what was the mystery fish we saw yesterday? We give Filo a terrible description, ‘it was sort of light brown with spots and really round, but it had a box shaped head, like it had swam into a wall’. Filo flicked through a fish book and managed to find our mysterious friend. It was a porcupine fish that we saw yesterday.

It’s such an interesting class, we learn so much about coral. Such as, it’s actually an animal, not a plant. On the table there are examples of different types of corals. Branch coral, Boulder coral, Mushroom, Bushy and Brain coral. The Boulder coral is very slow growing, only a few millimeters per year. The ones mentioned are hard corals, but there are also soft corals. We learn about what coral eats, how it reproduces and what damages it. The Crown of Thorns Starfish is a big killer of coral. It feeds off it and kills the coral polyps.

We also learn that coral is related to jellyfish, they have stinging cells which are used as a defence mechanism. This isn’t the cause of infection when you get cut by it though, this is caused by the bacteria in it. We also learn about the different fish groups, their characteristics and how the reef and the fish interact.

After a great lesson, we head out in the boat to do some coral planting. I have to say, this sounds a lot cooler than it was. Filo would find bits of coral that had broken off and was starting to die. She would then give it to us to plant in the ocean bed. You do this by wedging it into cracks in rocks so it’s pointing the right way and can get sunlight. It then fuses to the rock and begins to grow.

I found this really challenging. Although it wasn’t very deep, trying to dive down to the bottom and hold my breath long enough to put the coral in place was hard. I did manage to plant a few though. Daniel handed me a piece to hold for him while he planted another. While I am waiting, I feel something brush the inside of my hand. When I take a closer look I see a little crab has made its home in this piece. We make sure we plant this one next.

While out in the water, we also see a moray eel, it has its head poking out of a hole, looking rather grumpy! We make sure we don’t get too close. We see lots of fish too, from clownfish to parrot fish to angelfish, but my favourite are the little blue damselfish. They stay close to their coral, Filo had told us this morning that they are very territorial. The reef is such a fascinating place, such a delicate, balanced ecosystem.

After lunch, we have a bit of a rest outside our bure in the hammock. The air is warm and filled with Island vibes. The afternoon class begins with some crafts. Filo gets out the paint and we are challenged to paint something that has stood out to us while snorkeling. Daniel paints (quite well) the porcupine fish and I do a very amateur painting of the damselfish in the coral. I found their bright blue colouring captivating and the way they hugged the coral protecting their home really interesting to watch. Filo is there to answer any questions of course and also gives us a pop quiz, which unfortunately, I don’t do very well at.

For the last part of the day, we get kitted up with masks, snorkels and fins for a snorkeling safari. We get on the boat which takes us out to Reef Escape, which is a well known dive spot. Wow, what a beautiful underwater garden. Upon first sight, the coral just looks like a lot of different shades of brown and beige, but as my eyes adjust, the colours start to come through. Blue tips, mauve, green, white, yellow, orange, it’s subtle but so pretty.

There is coral of all shapes, sizes and textures. We also see some magnificent examples of the corals we learnt about this morning. Filo even spots a fire coral which she points out. Like the name suggests, this isn’t one you want to touch. Some are brightly coloured, but this particular one is a dirty cream colour. There is lots of table coral here, one that we had been told about, but they didn’t have an example of it in the classroom. We also see lots of soft corals, they sway about in the current like hair dancing about in a breeze.

Because of the coral, most of the time, the water feels pretty shallow, but every now and again there are some big breaks in it and I realise how deep it actually is. Again, I am surprised (and so pleased) at how calm I feel. I have a very big fear of sharks and being in open water like this is not something I would normally do. But this is an opportunity of a lifetime and not something I am going to miss out on. I am feeling pretty proud of myself for being so brave. There are lots of fish around, but I am not really paying much attention to them, the coral is certainly the standout here.

It has been such an incredible day, but I am pleased to be getting in the boat to head back. We have done 3 snorkeling trips today and it has really drained us. Once back on land, I decide it’s cocktail o’clock and grab a drink from the bar to enjoy down on Sunset Beach, watching the last of the wonderfully warm rays slip behind the clouds.

I head over to dinner, in bare feet, wearing a simple sundress thrown over the top of my swimsuit. I love that I can do this and not look out of place. It’s not a big flashy resort, guests don’t get dressed up for dinner. We are here for authentic experiences and that’s what Barefoot Manta delivers.

Swimming with Mantas

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I wake up early, around 6am, to a spectacular view from our bure. I lie in bed for a while, listening to the ocean. Since I am awake so early, I decide to get up and head to Sunrise Beach and welcome in the day. In bare feet, I head along the path towards the restaurant, to cross over to the other side of the island. Just as I am passing the dining room though, a woman starts beating the Lali (Fijian drum) and calling ‘manta! manta!’ I literally start jumping up and down in excitement, I feel like a kid in the candy store.

I quickly head back to our bure to find Daniel up and rushing to get his swimsuit on. The playing of the ceremonial drum is used to communicate to guests that manta have been spotted in the channel and tours will be run. Within a couple of minutes we are ready to go and head to the dive shop to get fitted with masks, snorkels, flippers and await the briefing.

After the orientation, we are split into groups and taken out to Drawaqa Passage in boats. Barefoot Manta Island is right next to the passage so we don’t have to travel far. It also means that we get there before guests from the other islands arrive. Within minutes, we are in the water, it can’t even be 7am yet, but the water is warm and the visibility is amazing. It’s deep, but I can easily see the bottom. I thought I would feel scared, but I feel safe here.

In our groups of 6-8, we form a line and drift down the channel behind our guide, letting the current take us. And then we see it, our first manta! A dark shadow that appears from within the deep blue. It’s not scary at all. It is graceful and gentle, gliding through the water. A second one appears. They come sailing past us and then just like that, they are gone.

I can hear all these strange popping sounds in the water, later I find out that the sound is coming from fish eating. While we are here to see the manta, there are also lots of fish about. We swim through schools of silver fish, their little bodies flashing as they catch the light. We also float through cloudy patches with little white flecks. This is plankton, manta food. This passage is very rich in plankton and the reason why the manta’s love this spot so much.

We continue floating in the current to the end of the channel and get picked up by the boat. It takes us back to the start so we can get in and do it again. We drift through more schools of fish and plankton and then see the beautiful manta again. They are much closer this time and moving slower, so we get to have a really good look. One turns towards me and I see her front on. She is huge, but graceful, her fins effortlessly moving through the water.

Animal encounters like this are so incredible. It’s such a humbling experience to see a wild animal up close in their natural habitat. I watch her as she turns, opens her mouth and swims through a school of fish, although it’s not what she is hunting. We get a couple of sightings like this, they aren’t passing us so quickly. And then we see what we think is a third manta but later find out one had circled back and come past again.

There are 2 types of manta, oceanic manta and reef manta. The oceanic can grow up to 7m! They can travel long distances and are found around the world in tropical and subtropical waters. The reef manta, which are the ones that travel through Drawaqa Passage, are smaller, growing up to 5 meters. They do not travel between countries, these ones will stay around the Yasawa Islands.

Each manta has its own distinctive markings. The team of biologists at Barefoot Manta study these beautiful creatures. Each manta has a name and there is a board in the Marine Biology hut that lists them, along with the number of times they have been spotted this season. Today we are seeing Champs and Ember. These two have made regular appearances this season. Unfortunately we didn’t get to see Lady Grey. She is one of the largest manta’s in the Yasawa region. From memory she is about 4.2 meters, I think Champs and Ember are around 2.5 meters. They still seem pretty large when you are in the water next to them!

We climb back on board the boat to do a third and final swim. I am so pumped and excited. That was amazing and I can’t wait to get back into the water and do it again. Unfortunately though, the boats have arrived with guests from the other islands. There are so many people in the water, all over the place, splashing about. Barefoot Manta runs a really professional tour that first protects the manta, but also allows the guests great viewing opportunities. Sadly, the other islands don’t follow the same structure. None of them are staying in a line and this means when the manta do swim past, I only see a glimpse as there are so many people in the way.

It was a disappointing way to end, but our second viewing was so amazing that I can’t complain. Rob, the head biologist, said the visibility today was amazing and the best sighting of 2023, even though there were 4 manta yesterday, today’s sightings were better. I feel incredibly lucky to have been a part of that.

We head back to shore, it’s only just gone 8am and already our day has been action packed! We head to breakfast which is a gorgeous array of breads, cooked food, pastries and tropical fruits. I absolutely love breakfast, and today’s morning snorkel has made me rather hungry. As I eat my way through breakfast & second breakfast, I can’t help but wonder what other incredible surprises today will have in store for us.

The Fiji I’d been dreaming of

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Another day in paradise where skies are bright blue and summer clothes are fine all day long. Waves are crashing right next door and city noise is drowned out by bird song. We have an early start, catching a transfer bus to Port Denarau so we can take a catamaran out to the Yasawas.

Other Island holiday makers join us in waiting for the bus and I start to become aware of how light we actually travel. Our suitcase is by far the smallest, only slightly bigger than cabin luggage size, and we are sharing it between 2 people! I don’t think I could even fill a standard size suitcase if I tried. I love travelling light!

The bus arrives and zips us off to Port Denarau. It’s like stepping into a different world here. Entering through the gates you are greeted with beautifully manicured gardens, perfectly green golf lawns, stunning marina and fancy shops. It is super touristy, and while it’s lovely, it doesn’t feel like the ‘real Fiji’. I am pleased we had time in Nadi to experience the real Viti Levu. (Although if we were staying here, I probably wouldn’t complain about it, it’s pretty nice!)

It’s deliciously warm today with a gentle breeze. At the port we have a leisurely 30 minutes to get some breakfast and soak up the surroundings, before getting the call to board the Yasawa Flyer.

The catamaran is large, carrying lots of travelers heading to different islands across the Mamanuca and Yasawa Island chains. The horn sounds and we are off. We cruise through the water, it takes no time to leave the brown ‘industrial’ sea water behind us and venture out into the blue.

We reach the first stop quickly, South Sea Island. Lots of passengers depart. This is a popular island for day trippers as it’s only half an hour from the mainland. I head out on deck and get my first of many views of a postcard perfect island, with lush greenery and golden sand, nestled into aquamarine coloured water. It’s deep where we have stopped, but I can still see fish below the surface, their little silver bodies flashing in the light. I stand on the bow, wind whipping through my hair, looking out at the bright blue ocean and sky with little islands dotted about. This is the Fiji I have been dreaming about. I feel so light and free.

We make a few more stops at various Mamanuca islands before reaching Kuata, known as the Gateway to the Yasawas. We are welcomed to this area by a warrior in traditional dress, dancing up on a rock. Travelling further on, I notice quite a distinct difference between the Islands. The Mamanuca islands appear to be relatively flat sand bars with palm trees in the middle, but the Yasawas, they are mountainous, rocky, Jurassic park looking landscapes, they command attention among the vast blue ocean. I’m glad we are staying out here, it feels so rustic and untouched.

After nearly 3 hours of cruising, we arrive at Bare Foot Manta. A 3 minute cruise in a long boat has us pulling right up onto Landing Beach. The long boat travels slowly as it’s low tide and there is lots of coral. Staff are there to welcome us and greet us with song. We step off the boat, right into the water and walk up the beautifully golden sand. We are led up to the dining area and presented with a fresh coconut water drink.

Lunch is very colorful and tasty, served and eaten al fresco. Paradise.

We are then shown to our bure, it’s very close to the dining area, but they have done a good job of making it private. Our bure is a safari style tent, with a private outdoor bathroom. A hammock and sun chair out front call to us to settle in and find Island time. The bed is decorated with fresh flowers and Sunset Beach is right on our front door. Home for the next 3 nights.

Later in the afternoon, we meet up with Rob, the onsite marine biologist, for orientation. He talks to us about the manta rays that swim through the channel here and Cookie the parrot. We are then taken to the 3 beaches, Sunset Beach, Manta Beach and Sunrise Beach and Rob explains which beaches are good for snorkeling at what times. Lastly we are shown to the dive shop where we are able to borrow gear and book activities. I am so pleased our booking got sorted and we were able to stay here.

We decide to get right into it, so after orientation, we borrow mask and snorkel and head out to explore. Daniel is stoked to find they have prescription masks he can use. It’s high tide so we decide to snorkel at Sunset Beach. The water needs to be high here to explore and we were told at orientation that 300m or so out the coral is amazing. Daniel is keen, I am a little nervous. I have a big fear of sharks, but I am going to give it a go. I go out a little way, fit the fins and snorkel, then take the plunge. I spent a few minutes adjusting to breathing through a snorkel, then I’m off. Initially I am just seeing seaweed and little silver fish, this then turns into brown broken coral and a few colourful fish. But the further out we go, the more amazing it gets!

I’m in an underwater garden that’s in full bloom. Brain like coral, spiky coral, ones with blue tips, purple coral, big flat sheets of coral, it’s all here and I am right among it. And the fish! So many colours, shapes and sizes. It’s truly marvelous. We then see a very unusual looking fish off to the side. It’s quite large and brown in colour with a squarish looking head. We will have to try and look it up later to see what it is.

We are now quite a long way out, but it’s still shallow because of the reef. I have been assured that it’s very unlikely I will see a shark, but if I do, it will be a reef shark and it’s considered lucky to see one. I would be quite happy to continue snorkeling around where we are, but Daniel has zoomed off so I decide to be brave and follow him.

I see the edge of the reef approaching, I am not quite ready for this, so I hang back a while and just watch the fish. I see yellow ones, bright blue fish, black & white striped and fluorescent coloured parrot fish. Daniel is right out at the edge of the reef and I decide to slowly swim out and join him. The reef drops off into a blue abyss. It’s magical.

As we head back to shore, the rest of the coral looks boring in comparison to what we have just seen. We quickly dry off and change into some clothes, then head off to hear one of the biologists talk about manta rays. After a late afternoon nap, we head over to the dive shop. We have booked in for an evening snorkel. Unfortunately the sea is a bit too rough and for safety reasons, they will not be going out tonight. We will try again tomorrow. Instead, we opt for a cocktail at the bar followed by a yummy meal.

I end the evening with a shower under the stars in our private outdoor bathroom. We go to sleep with the tent door open, listening to the ocean, the gentle rhythm of the waves and our new little friend George the gecko who is scuttling around on the ceiling. This is the Fiji I’ve been dreaming of.

Temples, Orchids and a Mud Bath

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This morning we eat breakfast right by the pool. The air is warm but not hot. I love having a meal with the sound of the ocean right by, unfortunately it is somewhat drowned out by the construction going on next door.

Today we are on a tour that will take us to some local sights around Nadi. We are collected by Anan from Excite Tours. It’s just Daniel and I on the tour, so we are getting a private tour.

Our first stop of the day is Sri Siva Subramaniya, an incredibly colourful Hindu temple, the largest in the Southern hemisphere. We are given sulus to cover up and then follow Anan into the temple grounds. As we wander around, Anan pays his respects to the different gods and tells us about each of them. He invites us to ask questions, about the temple, or anything to do with Fiji. He is more than happy to share with us. The temple ceiling is stunning with brightly coloured frescoes portraying different stories. The detail is amazing, Fiji’s Sistine Chapel. You aren’t allowed to take photos inside so you will have to visit yourself to see it.

Our next stop is a local craft market. I have been hoping to buy some tapa cloth to take home and Anan tells me I will find some here. There are several stalls to look at, each selling a variety of local hand crafts, from tapa cloth, to jewelry, and carved wooden items. The staff are quite persuasive at getting us into their little stalls, it’s hard to say no. I want to have a little look around, but there is a bit of pressure to buy things, it’s quite an intense experience. Nothing like the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul or the street markets in Kolkata, but I was pleased when we finally left. Neither Daniel nor I really like shopping, but we did end up walking away with a few nice souvenirs for our nieces and nephews. I was also very happy to come away with some tapa cloth and a wooden mask. These will be lovely reminders of our time here. I hope we can get them through customs, or we may have just made a donation to the local community.

A local fruit and veg market is next on the agenda. It’s huge! There are rows and rows of beautiful, fresh produce. Some of which I have never seen before. Anan shows us some kava roots and explains that it is crushed up into a powder then put into a mesh bag to strain in water. One stall has some kava drinks already prepared. It looks like muddy water if I’m honest, but we are offered some and of course we say yes. We clap, say ‘Bula’ and then drink it in one go. This is followed by another clap. It kind of tastes how it looks and leaves a numb, tingling feeling on your tongue. An experience for sure!

After experiencing a little bit of Fijian culture we head to the mountains to the Garden of the Sleeping Giant. I can see how it gets its name. The mountains have quite a distinctive shape. As we get closer, the landscape changes. It becomes very lush, green and dense. It’s a tranquil paradise. You feel a world away from civilization among the tropical forest and bird song. We have half an hour to explore so take the loop walk passing delicate looking orchids of various colours and shapes. Apparently there are a lot more orchids during the summer months, but it’s still beautiful and I very much enjoy soaking up the forest. Some of the plants have ginormous leaves which we find very intriguing. Our walk and time at the garden ends with a very welcomed, complimentary juice.

Our last stop of the day is what I have been looking forward to the most. The mud pools. I had thought we were going to Sabeto Mud Pools, but actually ended up next door at Tifajek Mud Pool & Hot Spring.

Essentially, you cover yourself in mud, wait for it to dry, then wash it off in the fresh spring pools.

The mud is thick and squelches between my fingers as I attempt to pick it up and rub it across my skin. Without any warning, Daniel picks up a clump and smears it across my face. Thanks. Within a few minutes we are covered. The French girls next to us have neatly rubbed it onto their face like a beauty mask. We do not look nearly as sophisticated. I even have it in my hair and ears. Again, thanks Daniel.

Once we have baked dry in the sun, we get into the first pool, which has a thick layer of mud at the bottom. I sink in almost up to my knees. We do our best to wash it off, but it has baked on well. The sensation of the mud below is very strange, it’s even thick enough to sit on. Once we are somewhat clean, we get into the deliciously warm spring pool. It’s like being in a giant bath and is just delightful.

When I told Daniel I had booked a tour so we could go and soak in some mud, he thought I had lost the plot. He later confessed that he really enjoyed it.

The afternoon is spent by the pool, reading in a hammock. This is followed by a walk along the beach. It’s a lovely, sandy beach and soft underfoot, but the water is very dirty looking. Sun sparkles across the ocean, dotted with yachts and little islands out on the horizon. I am looking forward to heading out to the Yasawas tomorrow.

For dinner we head 2 doors down to Club 57 & Bistro right on the rooftop of Ramada Suites by Wyndham. We get some incredible views from here and it’s the perfect place to enjoy a cocktail while watching another stunning sunset. With a strawberry daiquiri in hand, framed by an orange sky, we talk about moving somewhere warmer. (This often happens when we go away on holiday, this time it’s Brisbane we are thinking of) The food is amazing and the staff are very hospitable.

As we walk home, I find myself still picking mud out of my ears and hair. It was worth it though.

Travelling to Fiji

On By exploringthelongwhitecloudIn Fiji, InternationalLeave a comment

I am so pleased that 12 months ago Alana had the genius idea to travel somewhere warm this winter. We have had a very cold snap hit in the last couple of days and I can’t wait to leave it behind and head to warmer days. Having this to look forward to during the winter months has been wonderful. In just a few hours, I will be lying by a pool, sipping cocktails and soaking up the sun.

Bliss.

The last few weeks have been incredibly busy. I am looking forward to slowing right down and getting familiar with ‘Island Time’. It’s been 4 years since my last international trip, 13 years since I have been in the Islands (Why? It’s only 4 hours away, I need to do this more!) and 17 years since I have been in Fiji. This trip is well overdue.

We have a stressful start, I wake up with a cold 2 days before we leave. Fortunately not a bad one. Then the day before we depart, I get a message from our travel agent advising that the Yasawa Island accommodation (which we booked 4 months ago) has been double booked and wants to move us to their sister resort on an entirely different island. I am gutted. I spent weeks researching all the islands and specifically booked this one for several reasons.

So we depart, with the tail end of a cold and accommodation unresolved. We are not sure where we will be staying, but I am determined that whatever happens, it will be amazing.

As much as I dislike flying, I enjoy that feeling of leaving the busyness behind. There is always that last minute rush to get everything sorted, but once I step onto that plane, I feel it fall away, leaving it all behind.

We are flying Fiji Airways today, a first for us. We normally fly with Air New Zealand, but Fiji Airways offers direct flights to Nadi from Wellington, so in as little as 4 hours, we will be in the Isles of Smiles.

From up in the sky, the clouds look like sheets of ice, but when it finally breaks, there is so much blue below us.

It’s a smooth, easy flight, with OK food and onboard entertainment. I would fly Fiji Airways again. My fear of flying isn’t helped when Daniel kindly tells me that the type of airplane we are on had new technology that caused a couple of planes to crash. He quickly followed this up with, it’s OK though, they fixed it. Thank you husband.

When we step off the plane, I am expecting to be hit with the heat wave that I remember from travelling here as a kid. That thick, warm air, pungent with the perfume of fragrant frangipani, but it doesn’t arrive. The weather is still warm though and we are welcomed into the country with singing and guitars. Welcome to the Islands! Getting through passport control feels like it takes forever, but while waiting, we get some good news. A message from our accommodation in the Yasawas saying there has been a cancellation and our booking is confirmed. Phew.

Our transfer driver greets us with a warm and friendly ‘Bula’, a bottle of cold water and a lovely shell necklace (which I still have.) We arrive at our accommodation, Aquarius on the Beach and check in. It’s very simple, but clean, the staff are friendly and it’s right on the beach. The cheap price tag also means more dollars for spending on activities.

We drop our bags in the room, head straight to the bar and within minutes, we are sitting by the pool, watching the brilliant sunset, listening to the ocean. It feels so good to stop and slow down. I have traded punga trees and icy wind for coconut palms and for 20+ degrees.

We have a tasty dinner by the pool, watching horses on the beach and the glowing sky get redder and redder. Hello Fiji, I am looking forward to getting to know you better.